Ignition switch plug

[TILAM]

I'm in the process of removing my ignition switch as I seem to have a "dirty one". I'm at the point of unpluging the large white connector to the wiring harness under the tank but it seems tight. Are there tabs that need to be compressed or do you just pull it apart. Not much room in there and I can only get one hand in. Don't want to damge the harness.

Thanks

 

[Wolfhound]

Yes it does & so does the red connector to the switch next to it.

 

[Rls]

From what I can see of the radiator I do not see any indication of leakage. I am hopefull it was the cap. When I put the relay for the ignition switch on it I will look around the top end.

 

[painman]

TILAM, since you do have the 06, and all the issues with the switches, if you haven't already, you might want to do what I did yesterday with the harness Brodie is making up for us by installing it into the plug you speak. It takes the main strain of wear off the the ignition switch and puts it on the relay in the harness he is making and selling. Thus making the ignition switch last and help eleminate the failures we've been seeing especially in the 06 models. PM. <><

Ignition Fix

 

[Capt. Bob]

From what I can see of the radiator I do not see any indication of leakage. I am hopefull it was the cap. When I put the relay for the ignition switch on it I will look around the top end.

Oops.

Wrong thread?

 

[TILAM]

TILAM, since you do have the 06, and all the issues with the switches, if you haven't already, you might want to do what I did yesterday with the harness Brodie is making up for us by installing it into the plug you speak. It takes the main strain of wear off the the ignition switch and puts it on the relay in the harness he is making and selling. Thus making the ignition switch last and help eleminate the failures we've been seeing especially in the 06 models. PM. <><
Ignition Fix

I have been following this ignition switch thread since it first came out. I have been experiencing intermittent problems with it since June. Mine isn't the broken wire syndrom that is the most common but the "dirty contact" problem I think. Anyway removal and dis-assembly should tell.

As a side note, we in Canada have the Eurpean type switch with the "security chip". The switch is likely of a different manufacture and I don't know if they have ever been identified as having the broken wire type problem. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks for the information regarding the plug.

 

[painman]

TILAM, since you do have the 06, and all the issues with the switches, if you haven't already, you might want to do what I did yesterday with the harness Brodie is making up for us by installing it into the plug you speak. It takes the main strain of wear off the the ignition switch and puts it on the relay in the harness he is making and selling. Thus making the ignition switch last and help eleminate the failures we've been seeing especially in the 06 models. PM. <><
Ignition Fix

I have been following this ignition switch thread since it first came out. I have been experiencing intermittent problems with it since June. Mine isn't the broken wire syndrom that is the most common but the "dirty contact" problem I think. Anyway removal and dis-assembly should tell.

As a side note, we in Canada have the Eurpean type switch with the "security chip". The switch is likely of a different manufacture and I don't know if they have ever been identified as having the broken wire type problem. Can anyone confirm this?Thanks for the information regarding the plug.

You might want to check out this list of owners who have reported failures on the switch. I noticed off the first couple of pages two were from Canada. Its a good place to start.

Ignition Switch Failures List/Threads

 

[Rls]

From what I can see of the radiator I do not see any indication of leakage. I am hopefull it was the cap. When I put the relay for the ignition switch on it I will look around the top end.

Oops.

Wrong thread? :unsure

Pretty much!!!!!!!!!! Jack Daniels made me do it.

 

[ionbeam]

...I have been experiencing intermittent problems with it since June. Mine isn't the broken wire syndrom that is the most common but the "dirty contact" problem I think. Anyway removal and dis-assembly should tell...

Yes, do disassemble. Carefully inspect the white plastic carrier that has the spring loaded contacts for *any* thermal distortion. You can see the distorted part of the carrier in this picture.

Pic by Brody

 

[TILAM]

I'm in the process of removing my ignition switch as I seem to have a "dirty one". I'm at the point of unpluging the large white connector to the wiring harness under the tank but it seems tight. Are there tabs that need to be compressed or do you just pull it apart. Not much room in there and I can only get one hand in. Don't want to damge the harness. Thanks

OK so I didn't think I was this mechanically inept but I'm still stumped at pulling the white ignition plug apart. It doesn't seem to have any tabs or whatever to compress to disconnect.

It looks like the one shown here from another thread but I still am confused. A bit more explaination would be appreachiated.

www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=26398&hl=

So If its the overheated (burnt) type of problem when I finally get inside what is the fix? Please don't say switch replacement

Thanks again.

 

[Brodie]

I'm in the process of removing my ignition switch as I seem to have a "dirty one". I'm at the point of unpluging the large white connector to the wiring harness under the tank but it seems tight. Are there tabs that need to be compressed or do you just pull it apart.

OK so I didn't think I was this mechanically inept but I'm still stumped at pulling the white ignition plug apart. It doesn't seem to have any tabs or whatever to compress to disconnect.

Tillam

Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I hope you got past this silly thing.

The wire harness connector does indeed have a catch to it, it is a small ramped pin which fits into a narrow slot on the mating part.

To get it apart you can use a small jewlers screw driver to slightly spread the thin wall and just slide the assembly apart.

Not much room in there and I can only get one hand in

Sounds like you have the fuel tank propped up and are reaching under and around things. The fuel tank is an easy removable item on out bikes. Undo two wire connectors (with tabs easy to locate), quick disconnect the fuel line, disconnect two rubber hoses on the outer left rear of the tank and it will lift right off. This way it's easy to reach the whole top end of the engine bay.

So If its the overheated (burnt) type of problem when I finally get inside what is the fix? Please don't say switch replacement

The symptoms you have described sound exactly like what my switch showed before my "fix". The good news is ( if your bike is a lower 48 states model without a security chip) once you "easy out" the tamper proof screws you can index the plastic carrier 180 degrees and will have in effect a brand new used switch. That is what I did with my unit.

When you complete this repair and get the switch back in your bike, you need to add a relay to the circuit. That way it will never burn out again.

Hope this helps

Brodie

 

[Brodie]

Tilam

Since you have a Canadian version with the security chip, you may want to source a non chip switch from a salvage yard down here in the states to get the working guts to replace yours. If what you have is indeed a burned plastic carrier like the one shown above, a salvage switch may have a good enough replacement carrier. There is also another possibility that your carrier may be reworked to restore the floating quality of the copper wiper. I do not know exactly how your switch incorporates the security chip sensor, it just may be an add on device. It's possible that to get functioning again, all you need is to tap into the other switched wire to trigger the relay. All the relay requires is a switched wire that has a minimal amount of power (600 milliamps) to trigger it's coil. You may buy my relay harness, or find a relay in your neck of the woods to custom fabricate your own solution - just make sure it is rated for at least 50 amps. I chose one rated at 70 amps to provide plenty of safety margin - I didn't want it to burn out. If you look back to the first page of my thread you will find that I posted source and instructions for how to build your own.

If your bike is down for the winter you have time on your side. I think first order of business is to get into your switch to find out for sure what the failure mode is. From there it should direct your efforts.

Good luck with your endevour, I think you should be able to put something together for a lot less than +400.00 dollar fix that your dealer has to offer. Keep us posted on how it works out. We have a lot of smart people on this forum willing to help you out on this.

Brodie

 

[TILAM]

I'm in the process of removing my ignition switch as I seem to have a "dirty one". I'm at the point of unpluging the large white connector to the wiring harness under the tank but it seems tight. Are there tabs that need to be compressed or do you just pull it apart.

OK so I didn't think I was this mechanically inept but I'm still stumped at pulling the white ignition plug apart. It doesn't seem to have any tabs or whatever to compress to disconnect.

Tillam

Sorry I didn't respond earlier, I hope you got past this silly thing.

The wire harness connector does indeed have a catch to it, it is a small ramped pin which fits into a narrow slot on the mating part.

To get it apart you can use a small jewlers screw driver to slightly spread the thin wall and just slide the assembly apart.

Not much room in there and I can only get one hand in

Sounds like you have the fuel tank propped up and are reaching under and around things. The fuel tank is an easy removable item on out bikes. Undo two wire connectors (with tabs easy to locate), quick disconnect the fuel line, disconnect two rubber hoses on the outer left rear of the tank and it will lift right off. This way it's easy to reach the whole top end of the engine bay.

So If its the overheated (burnt) type of problem when I finally get inside what is the fix? Please don't say switch replacement

The symptoms you have described sound exactly like what my switch showed before my "fix". The good news is ( if your bike is a lower 48 states model without a security chip) once you "easy out" the tamper proof screws you can index the plastic carrier 180 degrees and will have in effect a brand new used switch. That is what I did with my unit.

When you complete this repair and get the switch back in your bike, you need to add a relay to the circuit. That way it will never burn out again.

Hope this helps

Brodie

I'm happy to be a member here to all these friends to help me out. I'll let you know what the findings are when I get deeper into it.

Brodie thanks again for the assistance.

It'll get worked out I'm sure.

TILAM

 

[TILAM]

Well if you are interested I took the switch apart today and sure enough I have the bad, overheated type contacts. I don't need to post a picture you've all seen it by now I'm sure.

There will be a "Brodie fix" as part of the remedy in the near future.

For Canadians who run into this problem here's what I plan to do.

I'll buy a US switch and transplant the guts. The ignition switch in the US is soemthing like $90 verses $400 plus ECU reprograming here.

Wish me luck

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Good Luck

 

[TILAM]

OK

Good news and bad news.

Good news is I seem to have the "burnt" part free-ed up and working correctly. Bad news is the brown wire has the solder failure.

Good news is there are only two wires (red and brown) in the world switch just like the rest of you.

More good news is I can just turn the plastic bit 180 degrees and use the spare contacts.

More good news is that I don't need to buy any switch.

Still more good news. I know some people in the aircraft business who are avionic technicians and the repair of the solder will be a kiss.

Still more good news Brodie has a harness for me!

Merry Christmas to me all round.

TILAM

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

... and the repair of the solder will be a kiss.

Ontario isn't that far away, but I've never heard "will be a kiss"

I hope it's a good thing

 

[TILAM]

... and the repair of the solder will be a kiss.

Ontario isn't that far away, but I've never heard "will be a kiss"

I hope it's a good thing

It's a term I've used for years, might be an English reference. And yes it is a good thing, usually a very good thing.

Nudge, nudge, wink, wink.