Intake Air Pressure Sensor

[cmnewcomer]

Folks,

Though I would post my problem/solution for those that may be experiencing similar problems. I have a 2008 FJR with 20k+ miles. The bike began displaying the following problems:

1. Rough idle on cold startup.

2. No power on initial start causing the engine to stall. Even after reaching full temperature.

3. Very hard to restart.

4. Apparent fireing of only 1 or 2 cylinders on cold startup. Sounded a lot like a desiel on initial start.

Anyway, after reading many posts and researching, here's what finally worked. I replaced the intake air pressure sensor, part number 5JW-82380-00-00, and the bike runs fine now. This little part if about $150.00 so I was nervious about this attempt at first.

I have put about 1K+ miles on the bike so I'm fairly confident that this fixed the problem.

Best Regards.

Carl

 

[Canadian FJR]

Is there a check-out to verify if this little (expensive) part is working properly?

Canadian FJR

 

[JamesK]

Any chance of a picture of the part?

I guess you didn't have YES, since this is something that I would think should be covered under YES.

 

[cmnewcomer]

No, I don't have the extended warranty. I'm sure there's a way to test it but I wouldn't know how. I'm not sure how to add pictures using this forum. Doesn't appear to be a way to upload a jpg file.

 

[madmike2]

No, I don't have the extended warranty. I'm sure there's a way to test it but I wouldn't know how. I'm not sure how to add pictures using this forum. Doesn't appear to be a way to upload a jpg file.

Files have to be "hosted" on an alternate site (like Photobucket) and the picture icon (little sunrise icon to the right of the smilies) will provide a link shows as a picture on the forum.

 

[ionbeam]

...I'm sure there's a way to test it but I wouldn't know how...

A bad sensor would throw a Fault Code 13 in the diAG fault history. You can test the sensor by going to diAG Code 03 and pushing the starter button. If the display value changes the sensor is good. You should also check the connector at the sensor, the harness and can't rule out the ECU.

Another simple test is to unplug the sensor, this will force the ECU to run using a look-up table. You can unplug the sensor and ride your bike just fine; in fact I don't think you could tell that the sensor was unplugged. The only time this wouldn't work would be if there was a short in the harness.

In following diagram the Air Intake Sensor is item #12; the diagram layout has the front wheel on the left.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Thanks for the info.

Canadian FJR

 

[Smooth_Gary]

hi carl,,i think i have the same problem,,i ordered the tps and the intake air pressure sensor

 

[cmnewcomer]

The sensor failed again at 50,000 miles. At $176.00, it's not a cheap part or reliable part in my opinion. By the way, my local shop here in Maryland wanted 244.00 for the part so I shopped around a bit. In any event, just installed the new one this week and it appears to be running fine again.

 

[LAF]

I would think there has to be a cause for this being taken out. Have you chased wiring looking for rubs? Are you 100% the part is dead? Can the ECU blow this part out or blow the ECU area or signal that controls this? Seems like something is not right to have you blowing these things out?

 

[3dogs]

Is there a check-out to verify if this little (expensive) part is working properly?
Canadian FJR

Yes, This is called a MAP (manifold absolute sensor) if it's on a car. Yamaha calles it an air pressure sensor but is the same thing and works the same. It senses intake manidold pressure. There are 3 wires connected to the sensor.

1. Power = 5 volts from the ECU

2. Ground = ground from th ECU

3. Signal = MAP sensor signal to the ECU, should have around 1 volt at idle and increase (up to around 5v) when the throttle is opened with a load on the engine. (I may have this backwards--it's been a few years since I worked on cars).

You can check it with a mighty vac pump and a voltmeter. Find the signal wire and connect a voltmeter to it. (the sensor must be plugged in--back probe the signal wire with a hat pin) Connect the vac pump to the MAP (should have a nipple). Turn on the key. The signal voltage should change as vacuum is applied to the sensor. Higher vacuum should equal lower voltage.

This test checks the sensor, ECU MAP circuit and all the wires connecting everything together. I used to have a box full of good MAP sensors becuase they were replaced when the ECU set a "bad MAP sensor" code. The sensor is good but the stupid ECU thinks otherwise. The codes are a place to start but replacing a $175 based on the code alone will bite you in the ass and waste money. Hope this helps.

 

[wfooshee]

I'm with LAF; something weird gooing on here.

I've never heard of anyone saying, "Damn, the MAP sensor failed!" on their FJR, and here you are with two of them?!!??

I can't even begin to imagine a cause or how to look for one, but don't handle anything electrical that I need to use. K?

 

[cmnewcomer]

Well, it didn't solve my problem so here's some more information to what may be the solution.

1. I obvious replaced the IPS after checking the hoses for kinks, cracks, and obstructions and it ran for 50 miles fine. The next morning when I went to start it for the weekend bike trip, it threw the error code again.

2. Removed all lines again, inspected, and blew out each line separately with an air hose. Started bike every morning before work and after work for a week and let it come up to full temperature. Appeared to work until I went to ride to work 1 morning and it threw the error code again.

3. Removed all lines again and inspected but this time I pushed an 0.125" piece of drillrod through each line. On the collector tube that attaches to the IPS, a small bead of grease like substance came out that was caramel in color and very light weight but heavy enough to look like a small ball bearing about 0.125" in diameter on the tip of the drillrod. Followed that with some pipe cleaners and reassembled. Rod 3 times a total of 100 miles and it appears that things are working again.

Best Regards.

Carl

 

[wfooshee]

*** Into notebook: How to seriously screw up somebody's bike and make it impossible to fix ***

 

[Donal]

Well, it didn't solve my problem so here's some more information to what may be the solution.
1. I obvious replaced the IPS after checking the hoses for kinks, cracks, and obstructions and it ran for 50 miles fine. The next morning when I went to start it for the weekend bike trip, it threw the error code again.

2. Removed all lines again, inspected, and blew out each line separately with an air hose. Started bike every morning before work and after work for a week and let it come up to full temperature. Appeared to work until I went to ride to work 1 morning and it threw the error code again.

3. Removed all lines again and inspected but this time I pushed an 0.125" piece of drillrod through each line. On the collector tube that attaches to the IPS, a small bead of grease like substance came out that was caramel in color and very light weight but heavy enough to look like a small ball bearing about 0.125" in diameter on the tip of the drillrod. Followed that with some pipe cleaners and reassembled. Rod 3 times a total of 100 miles and it appears that things are working again.

Best Regards.

Carl

Congratulations on finally getting to the bottom of this really tricky problem. Many would have given up long ago.

 

[flynfjr]

I had the same issue on my 2006 with 150k and found that the solution was in the complete cleaning of tubing and the very small orifices that come off the fuel rail these four vacuum ports all connect to the sensor #12 which feeds info on the air fuel ratio to the ecu. be sure to carefully clean the orifice to the sensor as well. this is a very minor amount of stuff that is collecting in the tubes and at the orifices and you would not think it makes a difference but it does and it solved the problem once everything was cleaned out. Carl is 100% right in the soulution I know another guy that spend 400 bucks and took it apart more than 4 times, it did not go away until he got really serious about running tne pipe cleaners and air and rods through the lines and elbows and doing the orfices. anyway this can be a frustrating deal if you don't know the solution.

Thanks,

Larry

 

[pit0rz]

I'm intermittently getting this code as well, 2007 FJR1300AW w/ 152K on it. It has happened maybe 3 or 4 times in six months. Bike runs normally once warm. If I'm reading things right, In this parts diag. it is part #17 and the tubes that need to be cleaned are the vacuum lines # 10, #11, #12 etc? and vacuum blocks #13?

 

[Donal]

I'm intermittently getting this code as well, 2007 FJR1300AW w/ 152K on it. It has happened maybe 3 or 4 times in six months. Bike runs normally once warm. If I'm reading things right, In this parts diag. it is part #17 and the tubes that need to be cleaned are the vacuum lines # 10, #11, #12 etc? and vacuum blocks #13?

Have you 'cleaned' all the sensor lines as described above?

 

[Queensland Ken]

When I bought my 07 it had a MC Cruise installed, the bike was getting an error code 14.

The bike ran fine, but real rich. Nothing like the symptoms your bike has.

Turned out one of the vacuum valves of the McCruise install was installed backwards.

The ECU should use a base line figure / table and bypass the sensor if it detects a fault. ( as per ionbeam's post)

Could be a simple item such as a high resistance pin on the ECU connector.