K&Ns Directly on the intake?

[Big Shasta]

I searched and all I can find is the airbox mod with the cutout sides.

Is there room for ditching the airbox and using coned K&Ns on each intake? That was a common solution on my Yamaha Warrior and it opened up a lot of room under the tank (and let it breathe a lot better). Also, we used a Velocity stack type tube under each filter that tuned the intake for max gain. Anything like that for the FJR? I realize it was probably a lot easier only dealing with 2 throttle bodies and not 4.

I'm already planning on removing the Air Induction System and I bought new plugs and a sync tool. If I could get rid of the airbox at the same time, that would be awesome. I realize that would lean things out but I'd probably go all out and change the exhaust and add a PCIII at the same time.

 

[wfooshee]

Getting rid of the airbox might not be as simple as it sounds. There's a temperature sensor on the airbox that feeds intake temp to the ECU, and that's going to have to go somewhere. I don't know what difference it would make if that was just left hanging in the space under the tank.

I don't think the rubber tubes that are contained in the airbox for intake tuning are stong enough to hold the weight of a filter element. Maybe they are, or maybe something new would have to be fabricated.

Expect a noisier bike after!

 

[exskibum]

Getting red of the airbox is one good way to lose power. Back when we did that sort of thing in the 70s an d80s, airbox resonance wasn't the science it has become as manufacturers compete with one another to produce more power. Even so, as it turns out, we were probably losing power on our big 4s with those conical K&Ns replacing the stock airbox with NO engineering going into our mods.

There are articles on airbox design and it role in intake tract resonance, and what part that plays in harnessing more horse-ponies. I'm pretty sure Kevin Cameron did a good article on it (if not in one of his books) a few years back.

In other words, I sure wouldn't do it unless intake noise was all I was after.

 

[UselessPickles]

You'd probably have to get sturdier velocity stacks (maybe ceramic coated stainless steel? ) of the same length and shape as the stock rubber tubes. With air filters mounted directly to the rubber tubes, it would cause low pressure inside the tube relative to the atmospheric pressure outside the tube. Those rubber tubes are pretty flimsy, so they would probably just collapse due to the pressure difference.

I'd like to see someone try it and report before/after dyno results with a properly tuned PCIII or similar