KC Region - Lowering Bike

[William England]

Hello!

Off to see the wizard today - picking up the 2006 FJR from Jay Hatfield in Frontenac, KS. Next couple of weeks we want to get it lowered a bit for Nikki (nEngland). She's 5'4, 38" inseam, 116#. We've got the Soupy's lowering link in hand.

I've read every thread here, appears 9/16" or 12mm is the most you can safely lower the front.

Looking to drop the rear at least 1".

This sounds like it will impact handling somewhat - slightly more difficult to turn in, slightly more stable in the straight line.

This also sounds like it will need the sidestand cut down a bit. I've read several different opinions - is the sidestand a hard-to-weld alloy, or is it forged steel? Reno's reports it's a dodgy alloy and we should plan to buy an aftermarket adjustable sidestand.

Finally, is there anyone in the KC region who has done this before and would be willing to help out, or show me how to do this? Not getting a good vibe from Renos or Shawnee Cycle Plaza about their experience doing this before.

Thanks,

Will

 

[eddie]

Jay Hatfield is where I bought my 2013 FJR. Craig was my sales guy. Great to deal with. I hear theirs a chicken place down there called Chicken Annies thats great. Dont think they open till 4 so maybe plan your trip to be able to go by there. I dont know anyone that has done the lowering personally. I would have her get a feel for the bike before you lower it. Im only 5'5 with a 30 inch inseam and I was comfortable with my 2005 that I traded in. They have a super clean

gen 1 there. My old one.

ed

 

[Fred W]

Hello!
Off to see the wizard today - picking up the 2006 FJR from Jay Hatfield in Frontenac, KS. Next couple of weeks we want to get it lowered a bit for Nikki (nEngland). She's 5'4, 38" inseam, 116#. We've got the Soupy's lowering link in hand.

I've read every thread here, appears 9/16" or 12mm is the most you can safely lower the front.

Looking to drop the rear at least 1".

This sounds like it will impact handling somewhat - slightly more difficult to turn in, slightly more stable in the straight line.

This also sounds like it will need the sidestand cut down a bit. I've read several different opinions - is the sidestand a hard-to-weld alloy, or is it forged steel? Reno's reports it's a dodgy alloy and we should plan to buy an aftermarket adjustable sidestand.

Finally, is there anyone in the KC region who has done this before and would be willing to help out, or show me how to do this? Not getting a good vibe from Renos or Shawnee Cycle Plaza about their experience doing this before.

Thanks,

Will

Hey Will, I've got to get a look at this Nikki, with 38" inseams she must have incredibly long legs.

I'm sure that you meant 28" which would be a challenge with an FJR.

As for lowering, I am hosting some files on my web server that were written by a guy here that wen through the complete lowering process. You may want to look at his notes if you haven't seen them already.

Lowering the Seat

Lowering the Suspension

Shortening the side stand and center stand

My own take on the center stand is that it can be left alone. When you want to use it you just need to ride or back the rear wheel onto a piece of 2x6" and then it pops right up normally. Center stands are really only good for doing maintenance things to the bike anyway. The side stand can be heated and bent outwards, or else the stop on the stationary part of the stand's pivot can be filed or ground away to get the appropriate angle, with no welding required.

As for handling changes,. if you lower the front and back the same amount the handling should not suffer greatly. The ground clearance when leaning will, but not the handling.

Good luck with it.

 

[William England]

Jay Hatfield is where I bought my 2013 FJR. Craig was my sales guy. Great to deal with. I hear theirs a chicken place down there called Chicken Annies thats great. Dont think they open till 4 so maybe plan your trip to be able to go by there. I dont know anyone that has done the lowering personally. I would have her get a feel for the bike before you lower it. Im only 5'5 with a 30 inch inseam and I was comfortable with my 2005 that I traded in. They have a super cleangen 1 there. My old one.

ed

Ed - they "had" a super clean 2005. It sold in 17 minutes after you traded it in. So, you're the one who beat me to the punch on the 2013! Congratulations!

Will

 

[William England]

Hey Will, I've got to get a look at this Nikki, with 38" inseams she must have incredibly long legs.

I'm sure that you meant 28" which would be a challenge with an FJR.

Thank you - yup, posted that before my coffee was done.

As for lowering, I am hosting some files on my web server that were written by a guy here that wen through the complete lowering process. You may want to look at his notes if you haven't seen them already.
Lowering the Seat

Lowering the Suspension

Shortening the side stand and center stand

Thank you for the links! I'll print those and take a look to see how feasible it is here at the house. The seat mod looks very interesting - most likely round up a spare pan for that. Want to get several pans; have a Day-Long made for me, and a lowered seat for Nikki.

Still curious - what is the sidestand made of? Steel or die-cast pot metal?

Agreed - not going to worry about the center stand; I'll keep a 2x6 ramp in the sidecase for the rare occasion I need to put it up on the centerstand on the road.

 

[mcatrophy]

Can't answer the direct question, but try this google search:

"bend sidestand site:fjrforum.com"

 

[William England]

Thanks! I have read every post on here about bending, cutting, grinding the stop, cutting and big footing etc. Then I call the local dealers and they both advise that it's pot metal and I should buy a billet replacement - and not from them! Odd answer really...

Hence, the direct question.

 

[mcatrophy]

Thanks! I have read every post on here about bending, cutting, grinding the stop, cutting and big footing etc. Then I call the local dealers and they both advise that it's pot metal and I should buy a billet replacement - and not from them! Odd answer really...
Hence, the direct question.

Maybe the local dealers are on pot?

 

[Fred W]

I think trophy is right. They are the pot heads. It's not "pot metal". It can be heated and bent. It is a cast part, so I don't think I'd try and weld it. They just want to sell you some fancy aftermarket side stand.

 

[William England]

Thanks - that's what I was looking for. Cast vs forged. Cast and don't try to cut it.

I'll start with bending, move to grinding and worst case, buy the billet adjustable one from Soupys.

Will

 

[Hornet Pilot]

I recently lowered my 05' using Soupys adjustable links and adjustable side stand. I lowered the front and rear approx. 1" and cannot detect any noticible difference in handling. The ground clearance of course is less but just remember that and be careful. One other item to also consider is the change in rear linkage lever arm as it affects the rear spring rate. You may have to adjust your damping or spring rate if is noticibly a softer ride. Best to make your adjustments and then do a lot of riding and make small suspension adjustments till it feels best. I also noticed that when front and rear are lowered the same amount the 'turn in' and straight line tracking seems to feel the same as with the stock height.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[eddie]

Jay Hatfield is where I bought my 2013 FJR. Craig was my sales guy. Great to deal with. I hear theirs a chicken place down there called Chicken Annies thats great. Dont think they open till 4 so maybe plan your trip to be able to go by there. I dont know anyone that has done the lowering personally. I would have her get a feel for the bike before you lower it. Im only 5'5 with a 30 inch inseam and I was comfortable with my 2005 that I traded in. They have a super cleangen 1 there. My old one.

ed

Ed - they "had" a super clean 2005. It sold in 17 minutes after you traded it in. So, you're the one who beat me to the punch on the 2013! Congratulations!

Will

No kidding. I loved that bike. I knew it wouldnt last long. It was in perfect condition.

 

[Fred W]

One other item to also consider is the change in rear linkage lever arm as it affects the rear spring rate. You may have to adjust your damping or spring rate if is noticibly a softer ride.

I'm not following how lengthening the dog-bone links (to lower the bike) would effect the linkage ratios and/or the spring rate. The shock, spring, and relay arm will all still sit in the same position with the same load on them. The dog-bones are just the connecting link between the swing-arm and the relay arm. The length of that connecting link shouldn't matter to the rest of the suspension except the swingarm will sit at a slightly different angle to the frame.

 

[Hornet Pilot]

Well lets see, I thought the angle of the swing arm to the frame determines the force exerted on the shock spring. As this angle changes so does the the force imparted to the spring and therefore the effective spring rate. I may be smoking some thing but maybe better go back to my geometry class and diagram out the rear suspension!!

 

[vtwinn]

It does in fact change the spring rate after you go lower than 1" in rear ride height.

I have a set of Soupy's rear links and have tried many different settings to find a good compromise between ride height, spring rate and comfort.

I have a gen II shock waiting to install in my gen1 to get a better spring rate .

 

[Fred W]

Any idea why? I sure can't figure it out.

Is it maybe because the relay arm is operating at a different angle to the shock body?

 

[William England]

So, Shawnee Cycle won't put the lowering links in. Says they won't clear the center stand, also the holes on one end are off center.

Anyone want to stop by and have a lowering party? I'm sure I could provide cold beverages....