Different tack to "primer":
Auxiliary lighting for motorcycles falls into the categories of "Notice Me", Low Beam Augmentation (LBA), High Beam Augmentation (HBA); Cornering.
Notice Me is about conspicuousness - making a visible show to promote attention to the Motorcyclist's presence. Bright, bright headlights help here, but better is additional lights, and also, different colors. As for colors, only Amber/Yellow is allowed in the US, and any cheap light of about 25 watts, placed wide of the main beams, as on the side fairing, is going to be very effective at gaining forward attention. Otherwise, distinct pattern, as the triangular pattern posed by Moto Lights is very effective - more so as the wattage is increased (max of 75W each for Moto lights). To the rear, units using bright LED, with blinking illumination pattern for braking, are highly effective (as is passive "lighting" via large reflective tape systems).
LBA is seldom required for modern true sport tourers, but exceptions exist, not just for specific models, but also for very dark conditions where sharp turns are involved, and for riders with poor night accuity (I'm becoming one of those). Even the great, bright, broad beam spread of the K1200RS/R1150RT unit, benefits from additional lighting. Here, units like the PIAA 1100 which turn with the bars, and Moto Lights with at least 50W MR-16 bulbs, can be a great help. The FJR, with PROPERLY AIMED lamps doesn't seem to me to be a candidate for LBA. But, if one goes this route, and uses any other aux lighting as well as LBA, be certain to wire the LBA to fire with the low beams only (turn off when high beams are activated) so as not to add to or toward the overload of the FJR's pathetically underproductive alternator.
HBA is often of interest to those who ride at legal and extra-legal speeds on rural roads. Again, proper aim of FJR lamps is a great help, and produce not feeble results, but often just not enough range, and width as some desire. Here, the total output of common aux lights can overwhelm the FJR alternator. Consequently, outstanding solutions like the PIAA 910, at 110W each, are usually ruled out. While I enjoy the output of Hella FF200 halogen lamps (65W to 85W Hallogen), and their compatible yellow color, they do not put out as much usable lighting as HID units. And, HID units tend to draw only 35W to 50W for both lamps. An additional benefit of HID for HBA is they produce so much light that wide spread patterns still throw light straight forward a hugely valuable distance. Broad, deep, and bright pattern is great!!
Cornering lighting is not the same as HBA. Since a bike leans when cornering, standard HB pattern LOWERS, reducing visibility, when cornering. Cornering requires beams to be elevated 30 to 45 degrees, or whatever is the the rider's lean angle, in order to "see into" the upcoming roadway in corners. Broad beams (Broad means High as well as Wide) are indicated for this use. I've had great results, on bikes that can power them, using a pair PIAA 910's, with the right lamp with locked aim for HBA, while the other, left lamp, is only friction tight enough to allow hand aiming very high for cornering. I assume that "Warchild's Favorites", with their also broad beams, would be ammenable to this use as well.
A note on Light Color.
Incandescents are quite yellow. Halogens' light is more toward white, but still yellow. Some Halogens (as those used in PIAA 910s) are "quite white". HID lighting ranges across white to blue.
These differences become important when switching off Cornering or HBA lamps. If they are white to blue in output, and the "low beam" lamps are yellow, there will be an "Accuity Drop" much greater than the diminisment in wattage: It might take 200W of "yellow" to now allow the eye to see as well as with a 65W "white" low beam, after switching off PIAA 910 "whites" or 35W HID's.
The "rule" is to match "colors", actually Light Temperature, between low beams, and high and cornering beams.
Best wishes.