Looking for a Second Opinion

[SacramentoMike]

First thing is, I am NOT a motorcycle guru, mechanical expert, or technical wizard like some on this forum. In fact, much closer to the other end of the spectrum. But I learn a lot reading here, and one of the things I've learned is my '05, at 38K miles, is way over the recommended life of the stock suspension.

But there are too damn many ways to go, too many levels of perfection, and too many price levels. I need to decide what way to go for this winter; it's something I've decided it's time to do.

So lots of West Coasters speak highly of GP suspensions, for example, a long day's ride away from me. Then there are the "send off" deals, with shipping, plus disassembly and reassembly (which I'd have to pay somebody else do do).

I'm not a real aggressive rider, don't have the subtle riding skills to appreciate all the fine nuances of a race-ready setup. I just want the bike to be close to "right for me," within reason. I ride solo almost all the time, and if I do have a passenger, I'm more than happy to just ride slower, so I don't need fancy remote adjustment capability, for example. My load will never vary more than the weight of a couple of days' clothes and some camping gear, once or twice a year. Or if I gain a few more pounds.

So here's the question: Why not let the local dealership (they're good, and I trust them) do the work, and save myself at least the time and cost of a ride to Oregon City? They'll put on Penske, Hyper-Pro or any other brand parts (they like the H-Ps), shock, progressive springs, fork oil, seals, everything a real specialty shop would do, as far as I can tell. They'll do Ohlins or whatever I want to pay for, for that matter, but hey, back to cost. The total cost there would be similar to a place like GP, probably a bit lower, but I'd be saving on the travel costs. The service guy wasn't trying to "sell" me, but it makes sense. I'm leaning that way, but I'd like to hear your input. Thanks.

 

[MCRIDER007]

So here's the question: Why not let the local dealership (they're good, and I trust them) do the work, and save myself at least the time and cost of a ride to Oregon City? They'll put on Penske, Hyper-Pro or any other brand parts (they like the H-Ps), shock, progressive springs, fork oil, seals, everything a real specialty shop would do, as far as I can tell. They'll do Ohlins or whatever I want to pay for, for that matter, but hey, back to cost. The total cost there would be similar to a place like GP, probably a bit lower, but I'd be saving on the travel costs. The service guy wasn't trying to "sell" me, but it makes sense. I'm leaning that way, but I'd like to hear your input. Thanks.

The GP Suspension fork rebuild is a carefully matched set of springs, rebound and compression valves, and fork oil. You could just buy the parts from them and have your local shop do the installation. Penske shocks are valved and sprung to your weight and riding style, anyone can install a Penske shock and then its just a matter of fine tuning the damping.

 

[exskibum]

Mike, there is very little that I wouldn't let Zac and the mechanics at Roseville Yamaha handle. You'll get a serviceable suspension. As far as the rear, you'll probably even get the same Penske shock, but I'm not as sure that you'll get the perfect spring rate that you WILL get from GP (who seems to have more or less pioneered the correct set up for FJRs that more than one suspension shop uses). 'Nother story on the front suspension, though. Yes, you'll get a fully functioning suspension with the right spring rate.

Having done the ride in at GP this last summer and been given the full education as Ben addressed every part of the internals of my front suspension (with their valving set-up) and the internals of the Wilbers they rebuilt and resprung for me, I KNOW there's a big difference. You won't have the GP spring spacers, you won't have the GP valving stack set up for you and you won't have the spacer cut to exactly the length necessary to give you the proper rate before any preload. What I got was a stiffer spring to handle aggressive twisties strafing, two up and rough roads mated with a plush ride. On the rear, I went from a 542 lb. spring to an 800 lb. spring, and got a more plush ride, but one that was more responsive when pushed and without the shock bottoming out when two up.

Zac and the boys will do a great job. But I think that suspension is the most important farkle (it's the one most likely to keep me from getting killed, IMO), I have another great set-up from Traxxion Dynamics on my Blackbird, and IMO, GP and Traxxion Dynamics are the only places to get it done exactly right. But it's your money, and it certainly is going to be better than stock if you have a new front spring and Penske rear shock installed at R.Y.

Neither pulling the forks nor the rear shock are particularly difficult or all that time consuming, BTW. If it were me and I didn't want to ride to Oregon City, I'd pull them and send them to GP. That's what I did with the Blackbird in '06 -- shipped the forks to Traxxion in Georgia and installed everything when they came back. Do you have the tools?

 

[sportsguy]

I'm considering the ride to GP from Seattle. The overall cost will end up about the same as you SacMike, simple because I'd RATHER rid ein - incurring that cost is worth it to me.

It's your bucks, though, so sit down and figur eout the actual costs - see if there is THAT big a difference in travel expenses - enough for you to justify skipping the rid ein option.

I feel - as many do here - that getting every detail correct can make a big difference. I don't corner strafe, I ride 2 up sometimes, I'm not apower-hustler in the twisties and overall tend to take my time...but...

That one time the perfectly tuned suspension saves my a$$ during an emergency manuaver will easily justify the cost.

Now, given your current suspension is overdue, I thin kthe real question is this:

Does a GP drive-in a few months down the road sound more palatable? If yes, can the current suspension last until then?

I've wrestled with the same dilemma - take it off myself (I'm a master at disassembly!), ship it, etc. Frankly, for MY time and money, the headaches of packing and shipping - that f*ckery alone makes it worth it for me to drive into the shop in Portland. That and VooDoo Donuts's bacon/maple donut...

I sweat the minute details of reassembly like torque specs, lines above the triple clamp the fork tubes are, etc. Because I'm NOT a mechanic, I'd prefer an expert sort my important bits.

There's a reason auto-surgery never really caught on, IMO. Let the experts handle it all.

My vote, for the little it's worth, is ride into GP. The ride alone counts for something on an FJR. Plus, you'll have immediate back-to-back knowledge of the differences and a MUCH better understanding of how the entire suspension system functions.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Mike - IF you can afford the upgrade, it's well worth it IMHO. I have no regrets and it made a huge difference. The one thing I did was a rear shock upgrade first, then the front end with Race Tech (located in SoCal). Would have been nice to do it all at once, but it didn't work out that way.

Read my post with Race Tech. They did an awesome job and this made the biggest difference, I could tell straight away.

So who's the best? Well, I'd bet they are all good and not many could really tell the difference. Maybe the best price and closest is an advantage etc. I don't think you'll be bummed either way. I've heard of some that do not like GP and others that do not like Race Tech, soooooo.... Maybe they had bad experience or what ever, not really sure.

Also, when having them do your set up, tell them how you ride and what you want from the suspension, they'll work with you on spring rate etc.

Good luck, let is know what you do and how you like it.

 

[UberKul]

Hey Mike, I was just going to PM this to you but figured I would put it out there for all to scrutinize.

What is it your current set up is doing poorly or is not doing you would like?

Bottoming?

Not using the full travel?

Too harsh (doubt it)?

Too soft?

Too linear or too progressive?

Does the suspension work down in its travel too fast or slow?

Does the suspension work back up in its travel too fast or slow?

Turn in too fast or slow (rake/trail)?

Don’t poo-poo the remote preload idea too soon. I did and regret it. Spring rate and preload have A LOT to do with how your bike handles and setting it up for solo makes it handle like a pig two-up or if heavily loaded. Preload helps (most people do not adjust for load) and a remote would at least make it more likely you would.

These are some of the basic questions you should be able to answer to get your suspension set up right for the type of riding you do. I think you will find some of these guys just buy the flavor of the month on the forum and swear it changed their lives.

I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for but unless you want/need all the performance some of this high-end suspension can deliver you may never know or notice what you bought. My opinion is suspension is not a set and forget thing. Until you have played with the stock setting/clickers and exceeded what the stock suspension can do for you why spend the money? You can buy a lot of near new OEM shocks on here for $50.00 a pop. Buy gas instead and ride the shit out of the bike.

 

[Harald]

FWIW, I used GP for my work and was very happy with their service. I opted for a ride in to have them redo my front forks and install my Ohlins rear. I do my own maintenance on all my vehicles and have my whole life, but I didn't want to have the bike down for a week or two using the shipping method and shipping costs vs riding down were probably a wash. Plus it was great to have them set the sag on the bike while I was there - can't do that via mail!

The only negative was probably the weather on the day I rode down, as it never got above freezing and I got snowed/rained on as I neared home on the way back. That was my longest CBA (cold butt association) ride ever so some good came of it! :yahoo:

 

[Ignacio]

Neither pulling the forks nor the rear shock are particularly difficult or all that time consuming, BTW. If it were me and I didn't want to ride to Oregon City, I'd pull them and send them to GP.

That's what I did.....and only live 200 miles from GP. Only tools tend to be a set of 3/8" and 1/2" metric sockets, a torque wrench, a shorty 3/8" driver was helpful for the lower triple clamps, and jack up the front end as talked about many times. It was about 1 hour each in my garage taking stuff off and putting things back on.

 

[rogdeb]

,....... but I'd like to hear your input. Thanks.

PM'd you Mike.

Here ya go though ... copy/paste from PM

Mike,

Zac at Roseville Yamaha installed my Hyperpro rear set-up for me. I gave him all the needed rider/pillion weights plus riding style and he did the ordering for me.

Like you, I don't profess any superior knowledge, and wouldn't really know the different feel between 1 click or 2 clicks, but, I can tell that the bike was transformed in the way it handled.

My 02c for you.

Rog

 

[tmc]

Zac and the boys just did my front forks 2 months ago. Full rebuild (bushes, seals, all) with RaceTech .95 springs and fressshhh oil.

I then replaced my rear with an extremely low miles stocker.

I shook it down, dialed it all in (clickers), and am now 100% happy with it. It is significantly better than before - the rear was way soft even after adjustment and it was flat time to replace.

Anyhow - money is no object, then yeah get the full GP/RT/Traxx setup. But you can do good even on a budget.

My full rebuild was right at $500, which includes the price of the gently used rear. The rear shock can be replaced my untrained monkeys. Just remember to grease your pivot points while you are in there.

 

[Waaane]

I am in the same boat. I want to rebuild my suspension. I have a 3000 mile new stock shock bought on the forum and am wondering what to do about the front end. I am leaning toward doing the rebuild myself with a spring kit.

If any forum member in the greater Sacramento / Auburn area is going to tear down a front end and rebuild it I sure would like to watch. Hell, you can use my garage in Foresthill. I have tons of space and probably all the tools. Seriously, I would like to see this done one time before digging in to mine.

If somebody that knows suspensions wants to do a show and tell for some of us my place is available. We could take apart 10 FJRs in there and still have room left over. I will supply some BBQ.

 

[HaulinAshe]

There are some viable mid-level options for improving the suspension.

You Gen-I owners have an option that Gen-II owners don't. A lightly-used Gen-II stock shock makes a noticeable improvement when installed on a Gen-I bike. That also retains the High/Low rate adjuster which in itself is an extremely functional design. Emulsion shocks like the OEM/stock FJR shock, are typically good for about 65,000 miles.

Once you step into the full-tilt upgrades, it's definitely as much about convenience and logistics as performance differences. In some situations it's as individual as choosing a seat.

 

[YooperDick]

Well, I'd bet they are all good and not many could really tell the difference.

Based on your introductory remarks, take comfort in this sentence.

 

[madmike2]

I say, "Trust Zac".

You admit you don't push the envelope with your bike. A "full tilt" suspension upgrade might help save you in one instance. Any upgrade from OEM is going to make a world of difference in how your bike feels to you.

Concur: Remote Preload is a wonderful addition for the times when you load your bike for an extended vacation trip and add 150 lbs of "stuff". That's when you'll be cussing yourself for not being able to simply turn the knob! Ask Rog... :blink: