Lower Seats

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RoeckerJ

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would like some info on seat. I need to find one that is a little lower so I won't be on the balls of my feet or tipee toe while sitting on bike.

 
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With my 29 inch inseam, I'm used to it. However, maybe a set of lowering links would help? Lot cheaper than a seat, and the FJR has loads of cornering clearance anyway. Here's another idea: when ya get done, throw a CT on the back, which increases cornering clearance, but doesn't affect ride height; and the whole equation balances out.

Gary

darksider #44

 
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Did a quick search and found this thread:

Lower your seat; not your bike

Lowering the bike is an absolute last resort to me. If there's anything else you can do that might work, that's what I'd try first. A guy in Florida (Spencer) does a great job lowering seats

and modifying the foam for 'longer distance' riding. This is the link for him.

While some think the fjr has a lot of clearance, others do not. Many find the pegs scraping very quickly. One way or another, changing the geometry of the bike when just lowering the

seat would have worked is a bad idea imho.

 
+1 on lowering the seat and not the bike.

I use to have the same problem,even with plastic height adjuster removed.

Purchased a slightly used Corbin seat on forum.

With plastic adjuster removed it's perfect,no more tip toeing and flat footed.

Good Luck

 
Same problem....cured with Corbin seat. It's not only a bit lower but it's not as wide in the front... So your legs are not spread out as much....which helps a lot.

 
+1 on lowering the seat and not the bike.

I use to have the same problem,even with plastic height adjuster removed.

Purchased a slightly used Corbin seat on forum.

With plastic adjuster removed it's perfect,no more tip toeing and flat footed.

Good Luck
Kman, he is riding a gen1, we don't have a seat height adjustment. I used the lowering links, lowered the front as well and installed a hyperpro shock to compensate for the stock shock.

john

 
https://www.corbin.com/yamaha/yfjr13_cds.shtml Corbin Canyon Dual Sport Close lowers seat height 1 inch. When I purchased my '05 this past Aug, the bike came with a near new (300mi) Corbin Dual Sport Close along with the stocker. I put a couple hundred miles on the Corbin then tried out the stock seat. The Corbin is lower, that's why at 6-1 I'm sticking with the stocker. Gives a little more distance to the pegs. I thought the Corbin was a bit better than stock comfort wise, but I need the height so my knees aren't bent as much. Too bad, the Corbin is a way better looking seat than the stocker.
 
Thanks for the help. I almost ordered the link to lower bike. I have been seeing if boots would help some like hiking boots or cowboy boots. would MX boots make a difference?

 
Thanks for the help. I almost ordered the link to lower bike. I have been seeing if boots would help some like hiking boots or cowboy boots. would MX boots make a difference?
Yes absolutely, some boots can help. Have never worn MX boots so not sure on those.

Another thing to keep in mind, we do get better and better at handling a too high seat height over time. My current bike is definitely too high for me, so it's just the left foot down at stops. I'm certainly at more risk of dropping the bike though. On the bright side... my knees never hurt ;)

 
+1 on lowering the seat and not the bike.

I use to have the same problem,even with plastic height adjuster removed.

Purchased a slightly used Corbin seat on forum.

With plastic adjuster removed it's perfect,no more tip toeing and flat footed.

Good Luck
Kman, he is riding a gen1, we don't have a seat height adjustment. I used the lowering links, lowered the front as well and installed a hyperpro shock to compensate for the stock shock.

john
 
I've tried several permutations for lowering my Gen I. With 26" in seam I alternate between left or right tippy toes with the bike at stock height. It's possible to ride like that but not exactly confidence inspiring.

I did a ride-in fitting for a Rocky Mayer seat. He gave me the choice between a comfortable seat or a low seat so I chose comfortable. The stock was only good for about 200 miles, for me.

I got a two inch thick sole added to my boots. That worked pretty well, apart from looking really dorky. The shift lever had to be moved up to accommodate the boots. The main drawback to this set up is that the knees are bent at a more acute angle and mine didn't like that on longer rides.

For a couple of years I had the bike lowered with Kouba links. That was pretty good but the clearance is impaired and it would scrape on speed bumps. There is also the lean angle when parked on the side stand. Lowering the bike makes is much les steady on the stand and a real pig to get onto the center stand. My stand was altered somewhat but I still had to be hyper aware of camber in parking lots.

It's all about compromise for shorter people who want to ride taller bikes. I'm working on confidence and technique with a tall, dirt bike. It doesn't mind falling over and is easier than an FJR to pick up. I can climb on via a rolling start then reverse the procedure for an elective dismount.

 
I've tried several permutations for lowering my Gen I. With 26" in seam I alternate between left or right tippy toes with the bike at stock height. It's possible to ride like that but not exactly confidence inspiring.

I did a ride-in fitting for a Rocky Mayer seat. He gave me the choice between a comfortable seat or a low seat so I chose comfortable. The stock was only good for about 200 miles, for me.

I got a two inch thick sole added to my boots. That worked pretty well, apart from looking really dorky. The shift lever had to be moved up to accommodate the boots. The main drawback to this set up is that the knees are bent at a more acute angle and mine didn't like that on longer rides.

For a couple of years I had the bike lowered with Kouba links. That was pretty good but the clearance is impaired and it would scrape on speed bumps. There is also the lean angle when parked on the side stand. Lowering the bike makes is much les steady on the stand and a real pig to get onto the center stand. My stand was altered somewhat but I still had to be hyper aware of camber in parking lots.

It's all about compromise for shorter people who want to ride taller bikes. I'm working on confidence and technique with a tall, dirt bike. It doesn't mind falling over and is easier than an FJR to pick up. I can climb on via a rolling start then reverse the procedure for an elective dismount.

That's such an excellent thing to do, wonder why more people don't think of that? In the UK they have a completely different system of getting a moto license. They HAVE to start out on smaller more maneuverable bikes. It takes them like 3 YEARS before they can ride a 1300 cc bike. I really really wish we did that here in the states.

 
With my 29 inch inseam, I'm used to it. However, maybe a set of lowering links would help? Lot cheaper than a seat, and the FJR has loads of cornering clearance anyway. Here's another idea: when ya get done, throw a CT on the back, which increases cornering clearance, but doesn't affect ride height; and the whole equation balances out.

Gary

darksider #44

You and I both have a 29" inseam. my brother said the same thing that I would get use to it. I'm still trying to get my endorsement to ride it. I am trying right now to pass the written to get a permit for temporary. and do the skill test in the spring. the dealer said around 200.00 to use the link. I don't know how much a seat would be and what brand to get.

 
I've tried several permutations for lowering my Gen I. With 26" in seam I alternate between left or right tippy toes with the bike at stock height. It's possible to ride like that but not exactly confidence inspiring.

I did a ride-in fitting for a Rocky Mayer seat. He gave me the choice between a comfortable seat or a low seat so I chose comfortable. The stock was only good for about 200 miles, for me.

I got a two inch thick sole added to my boots. That worked pretty well, apart from looking really dorky. The shift lever had to be moved up to accommodate the boots. The main drawback to this set up is that the knees are bent at a more acute angle and mine didn't like that on longer rides.

For a couple of years I had the bike lowered with Kouba links. That was pretty good but the clearance is impaired and it would scrape on speed bumps. There is also the lean angle when parked on the side stand. Lowering the bike makes is much les steady on the stand and a real pig to get onto the center stand. My stand was altered somewhat but I still had to be hyper aware of camber in parking lots.

It's all about compromise for shorter people who want to ride taller bikes. I'm working on confidence and technique with a tall, dirt bike. It doesn't mind falling over and is easier than an FJR to pick up. I can climb on via a rolling start then reverse the procedure for an elective dismount.

That's such an excellent thing to do, wonder why more people don't think of that? In the UK they have a completely different system of getting a moto license. They HAVE to start out on smaller more maneuverable bikes. It takes them like 3 YEARS before they can ride a 1300 cc bike. I really really wish we did that here in the states.

so the link wouldn't be the choice around my house, I am in a Mfg. home park and the speed bumps are rough to go over they are not the low flat and smooth to go over.

I took a safety course in June called Team Oregon and the instructor told me to get rid of the Fjr and said that it is too big for me. I think he didn't have the right to tell me what I can and can't get. I did fine on the Suzuki 250 for training. failed the course by a little bit.

 
Lowered bike and lowered seat (Corbin). Also adjusted side stand to increase lean after lowering. Progressive springs and custom rear shock.

One change begets another.. and another....

 
Did a quick search and found this thread:

Lower your seat; not your bike

Lowering the bike is an absolute last resort to me. If there's anything else you can do that might work, that's what I'd try first. A guy in Florida (Spencer) does a great job lowering seats

and modifying the foam for 'longer distance' riding. This is the link for him.

While some think the fjr has a lot of clearance, others do not. Many find the pegs scraping very quickly. One way or another, changing the geometry of the bike when just lowering the

seat would have worked is a bad idea imho.
Hello,
I have a 2015 FJR1300ES; I'm located in Woodbridge, Va. and believe as you've stated to make an adjustment to the seat and not the bike. The link you've listed is not working. Would you please provide the link or email address to me at [email protected] I would like to see if this gent can fabricate a seat for me. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
so the link wouldn't be the choice around my house, I am in a Mfg. home park and the speed bumps are rough to go over they are not the low flat and smooth to go over.

I took a safety course in June called Team Oregon and the instructor told me to get rid of the Fjr and said that it is too big for me. I think he didn't have the right to tell me what I can and can't get. I did fine on the Suzuki 250 for training. failed the course by a little bit.
Your post pissed me off!

At the instructor that is. screw him!

We all have some form of a challenge existing in a "one size fits all" world. This guys issues must be mental.

Have you tried hitting the speed bumps crosswise (using both lanes)?

 
Hello,
I have a 2015 FJR1300ES; I'm located in Woodbridge, Va. and believe as you've stated to make an adjustment to the seat and not the bike. The link you've listed is not working. Would you please provide the link or email address to me at [email protected] I would like to see if this gent can fabricate a seat for me. Thanks in advance for the help.

That link is 12 years old and Spencer closed shop about 3 years ago.
 
I need to find one that is a little lower so I won't be on the balls

I just smiled a little wider when I read this.

I too am shorter than average, but I found a slimmer seat is more helpful (and cheaper) than shorter one.

The path of least resistance is actually to raise your butt. I knew a pro rider from ROK that stood under 5'0" . She had boots fabricated to raise her feet up about 2-3" like a platform shoe. I solved it by wearing Red Wing Hunting boots with about a 1 1/2 " heel.

I also knew a Kawasaki Dealer that rode a lowered C14 with a link, shaved seat , and fork tubes raised professionally (and more expensive). YMMV
 
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