I have the AudioVox cruise control but it is nice sometimes to have a simple throttle lock to just hold the throttle for a moment. For a few cents worth of bazing rod, a tie wrap and some solder you can make one of these tacky, budget throttle locks. Just rotate it with your finger and turn the grip backwards to release...
No one has shown up with this safety wire farkle yet.... Just too much time during the cold winter. LOL. Did the brake caliper bolts, oil drain plug, etc.... as well as the final drive fittings.
I mounted my heat troller knobs and indicator lights along the left fairing lip. Got tired of taking them apart every time I wanted to pull the fairing lower. So, I mounted the knobs and indicators in a panel of aluminum, put a press nut in the top and bottom re-tapped to the same threads as the fairing mounting screws so that it attaches from behind and just cut a rectangular clearance hole in the fairing. This way I just have to take two screws out, and the fairing can come off without undoing all the knobs and such.
Who says the DynoTech PowerShifter won't fit on an FJR....??? Works great. Just pulling the lever at 9000 is addictive. LOL.
I made the pieces to replace the stock link out of aluminum rod cut to length, drilled and threaded in the drill press and put together with the PowerShifter module. The little red tap at the top (in the mount) is a red tie wrap that holds and routes the wire from the PowerShifter to the PCIII. Only thing odd required to do this is the left handed tap for the lower threads on the stock rod end.
The install is a little tight as there is only about .030 clearance between the body of the PowerShift switch and the engine casting when the shift lever is moved fully to complete the shift...but it clears, that is all that really matters. It does make the rod length critical, though, when you are setting it up.
No one has shown up with this safety wire farkle yet.... Just too much time during the cold winter. LOL. Did the brake caliper bolts, oil drain plug, etc.... as well as the final drive fittings.
I mounted my heat troller knobs and indicator lights along the left fairing lip. Got tired of taking them apart every time I wanted to pull the fairing lower. So, I mounted the knobs and indicators in a panel of aluminum, put a press nut in the top and bottom re-tapped to the same threads as the fairing mounting screws so that it attaches from behind and just cut a rectangular clearance hole in the fairing. This way I just have to take two screws out, and the fairing can come off without undoing all the knobs and such.
Who says the DynoTech PowerShifter won't fit on an FJR....??? Works great. Just pulling the lever at 9000 is addictive. LOL.
I made the pieces to replace the stock link out of aluminum rod cut to length, drilled and threaded in the drill press and put together with the PowerShifter module. The little red tap at the top (in the mount) is a red tie wrap that holds and routes the wire from the PowerShifter to the PCIII. Only thing odd required to do this is the left handed tap for the lower threads on the stock rod end.
The install is a little tight as there is only about .030 clearance between the body of the PowerShift switch and the engine casting when the shift lever is moved fully to complete the shift...but it clears, that is all that really matters. It does make the rod length critical, though, when you are setting it up.
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