Missfireing

[cjaus]

2004 was running ok removed the rear wheel to check grease while changing rear shock unit. Went for a test ride. Runs like a hairy goat. Ok while cold then loss of power, pots not firming at all limped home. Cleaned the wireing harness of small amount of corrosion. Seemed to run smoother. Went for a test , same result. Sounds like TPS caused by heat ? Just a coincidence about the suspension work. Advice appreciated.

Craig

 

[ionbeam]

I read your post and had to go look and see where your location was

I suspect the rear wheel/suspension is independent of the fuel/electrical systems, with the exception noted in the final line of this post.

A TPS that's bad will typically cause rough running in a narrow RPM band and there may be more than one area of the TPS that is bad. If the rough running is caused by the TPS you will be able to see it run rough at the same RPM, no matter what the gear and run fine at all other RPMs.

Running bad when hot could also be sticking choke linkages associated with the wax motor or the wax motor itself on the fuel rail. This would make a warmed-up engine run rough at all RPMs.

It isn't uncommon for the spark plug wires to get damaged when the plug wire separates inside the plug cap when someone really tugs on a stuck cap.

Did you possibly hit the VSS sensor on the back of the engine? The sensor is somewhat in the vicinity of the shock. Have you checked diAG for any stored engine codes?

 

[Ignacio]

Did you possibly hit the VSS sensor on the back of the engine? The sensor is somewhat in the vicinity of the shock. Have you checked diAG for any stored engine codes?

ionbeam is a smart feller.

Count me as one of those that thinks you should focus on what you touched since it last ran OK. There's not much is in the area of the shock or rear wheel that can affect the way an engine runs, but your comment:

Cleaned the wireing harness of small amount of corrosion.

What specific part of the wiring harness? The engine computer under the seat, stuff under the tank, stuff under the dash? That's a octopus with lots of tentacles and anything you touched to get to that point isn't in the area of the shock or rear wheel. Again, what have you touched since it ran OK and go through each one carefully...it seems most likely an electrical issue to me.

 

[BobCo]

How is your voltage? Is the rectifier mounted near the shock like a Gen 2? Did you have to disconnect the wiring to get the ride selector out?

 

[cjaus]

Thanks for the speedy and helpful replies. I haven't checked the codes I have printed them out and will do this am. I will take a look at the VSS sensor I don't know if I hit it I may have.

Wax motor, OK better look that one up and check it out...

I will check plug wires, found a post saying to remove 5mm and refit.

The wiring harness was the large white one under the T bracket, a post on here states corrosion can cause my symptoms, found a little and cleaned it up.

Haven't checked the voltage will do today also and recheck battery terminals.

Having checked all the items mentioned if nothing shows up I will go through the pedigrees plugs balance, clean fuel and see where I end up.

While I am aware of the disparate location of the suspension and more delicate systems as a PC tech I always look to the thing that happened before failure.

Thanks again this forum is unreal so much info which plough through whenever I can. Love my series 1 and I will,prevail!!!

I don't always win in a hurry , but I always win.

 

[cjaus]

Progress so far ran ding codes got a 15 and a 30. I checked the output from the TPS starts at 15 and runs up to 100 the bike was. 66 deg C according to codes so not hot. The 30 code yes I did lay it down , ever so gently... , felt it going overbalanced went too far and slowly painfully against my physical ability hit the deck stationary. Damn it don't fell that heavy when it's upright!

So 15 is TPS I gather and 30 is angle sensor. I will resume my hunt. I have sourced a TPS if you guys think it might be it. I had a look at the rear of the engine I don't think there is any way I got near it during shock installation.

Thanks

Craig

 

[BigOgre]

The wiring harness was the large white one under the T bracket, a post on here states corrosion can cause my symptoms, found a little and cleaned it up.

That white connector has been known to give others trouble also.

(See here for the entire thread.)


BTW, any/all electrical connector, relay, bulb, etc, I pull off, gets a dab of dielectric grease. As noted above, it won't carry current but prevents water entry and all corrosion. Anywhere I've used it, NEVER another issue...
Been using it since my 04 FJR, main under tank connector corroded out, which the dealer couldn't find. I found the issue after searching here, cleaning and applying dielectric grease.........



You mean like this?

 

[cjaus]

Fortunately mine looks better than that. It is the plug I meant and I did that after the misfiring started. I got my vacuum gauge tool today so I did a balance on the throttle bodies. Pulled the plugs , they were all fuelled up and covered in soot, not surprising really just sitting idling in the shed. Thoughts? Is there a way to adjust the mixture ? I have found some iridium plugs on eBay. The voltage at the battery is around 12 13 volts while running. I have a 15 error code which means the TPS if I read the chart correctly. Does this mean it's ****** ?

Thanks to all for your time and wisdom.

Craig

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

BigOre,

The dielectric grease will only keep water out/corrosion virtually nill.

I suppose its possible (guessing here) you had a bad connection(some corrosion) in that plastic connector and that in turn, OVERHEATED IT, melting it.

The connectors are pretty small in there, a short (I wouldn't think likely), could cause that heat and damage..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Fortunately mine looks better than that. It is the plug I meant and I did that after the misfiring started. I got my vacuum gauge tool today so I did a balance on the throttle bodies. Pulled the plugs , they were all fuelled up and covered in soot, not surprising really just sitting idling in the shed. Thoughts? Is there a way to adjust the mixture ? I have found some iridium plugs on eBay. The voltage at the battery is around 12 13 volts while running. I have a 15 error code which means the TPS if I read the chart correctly. Does this mean it's ****** ? Thanks to all for your time and wisdom. Craig

There was a TPS recall from Yamaha for that year and should still be in effect(safety issue) if it hasn't been replaced:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchResults?prodType=V&searchType=PROD&targetCategory=A&searchCriteria.model=FJR1300&stats=218741%2C1%2C0%2C7%2C0%2CFJR1300&makeStats=&jsonBaseURL=%2Fdownloads%2Ffolders%2F&searchCriteria.model_yr=2004&searchCriteria.make=YAMAHA&searchCriteria.prod_ids=218741

https://www.arfc.org/motorcycles/yamaha/fjr1300/recalls/000022998000218741000000294/recall.aspx

You should have more voltage than that running.

Here's a video of my FZ6, cold start, with the voltages showing (just to give an idea):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/

If your not getting anywhere near that, you have some other issues, regulator, stator, etc.

On my old 04 FJR, I had a bunch of corrosion (it was usual on that model) IN a larger white (as I re-call) connector UNDER the fuel tank. The connector would collect water (wash, rain, etc) and eventually turned VERY GREEN. Once cleaned out, dielectric grease filled, ran like new again.

The running issues were occasional misfiring, poor performance, etc. In ANY event, I would check and dielectric grease that connector.

 

[ionbeam]

As Townsends says, your running voltage at the battery (no accessories on) should be ≥ 13.8 volts with 14.3 - 14.4 being normal. I don't know if you are the original owner of your bike, so let me add that some people installed aftermarket stators to increase the output from 490 watts to ~590 watts which it did, but, the stators had a short life. If your voltage is really around 12 volts when running you need to measure the voltage at the Rectifier/Regulator connector to confirm it is low. It's not uncommon to have a voltage drop where the R/R wires and the battery cables join together on the starter relay studs. The coils will fire acceptably even with the running voltage below 9 volts, only showing symptoms once near red line.

Code 30 -- there are lots of FJRs that have gone code 30, it happens

TPS -- A bad TPS can pass the diAG test. My FJR passed the diAG test for the TPS yet it was bad. The way I determined my TPS was bad was to back-probe the TPS connector, Velcro my DMM to the dash and went for a ride. Every time I had a misfire the voltage at the TPS would drop out. I can say with confidence that if your misfire occurs only in a repeatable small RPM range, regardless of gear selection the problem is the TPS. How to replace a TPS is here.

 

[cjaus]

Ok Thanks for the help. Voltage, my meter is a good but analogue unit. On the 12volt setting it goes to max the next setting is 30volts and difficult to tell exactly what's doing. I'll get a digital. Then go through he checks as suggested. Thanks again for it from all sources it is much apreciated. Craig

 

[cjaus]

Follow up, Removed the fuel tank, found the upper 30% to very rusted. And around the fuel pump also. The vent line was blocked which was the cause of poor running. Stripped and cleaned the tank and pump treated with rust inhibitor. Performed the electrolysis method using armband hammer (bi carbonate of soda) in the tank filled with water ran 12 volts at 3 amps through a steel anode for 24 hours. Didn't get it all but all I could get. Is running awesome now giggity giggity goooo!

 

[BobCo]

There's nothing like a happy ending. Good find and interesting solution (no pun intended).