Mobil 1 V-twin 20w-50

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skyway

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Spotted this at an auto parts store. A heavy weight syn. oil that is wet clutch friendly. Since all other oils have been beat to death, I figure why not this one as well. :D

Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50

 
Skyway, I would be careful about going to a heavier weight oil. I believe the recommendation is 10w-40. I just picked up Shell Rotella 5w-40 full synthetic at WalMart for ~$13.00.

 
Amsoil is the way to go, kids. I just changed to yamaha's semi-synthetic at about 1800 miles. Once I hit 4000 I'll change over to amsoil...and yes, they make a fully synthetic oil for our type motorcycles. Go to amsoil.com and check it out.

 
Skyway,  I would be careful about going to a heavier weight oil.  I believe the recommendation is 10w-40.  I just picked up Shell Rotella 5w-40 full synthetic at WalMart for ~$13.00.
Hey, welcome to the forum, Slardy!

You should heed your own advice... you're the one with the wrong viscosity range.

Factory recommended viscosity is 20-40w.

Truthfully, using a lower voscosity during the dark, cold days of winter isn't such a bad idea, but if it's still warm where you live, I certainly can't recommend a 5w car oil.... though it probably will work just fine.

*sigh* I should know better than to enter into yet another cyclic oil thread.... I really should make a "Never-Ending, Pointless Threads" forum for these threads... :lol:

 
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That would be a perfect place for my toilet experiments!!!!!!!!!!!

:lmao:

 
Warchild, thanks for the tip, but the lower viscosity number is how the oil pores at low temps compared to a mineral based oil. In this case, the lower viscosity is better, IMHO.

 
Um, yeah, I am familiar with the definition of viscosity.... :lol: hence my comment above:

using a lower voscosity during the dark, cold days of winter isn't such a bad idea
 
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Warchild DON'T enter into another oil post! Think of those who passed before us never to return again! :D

 
Welcome to Mobil Marketspeak 101.

Fred: "Hey Charlie, what's with the extra ten million gallons of 20w-50 comin' off the line today? We'll never get rid of that much of that ****. The bean counters are gonna have our *****!"

Charlie: "Oh ****...I had to take a piss and forgot to shut the line down. What are we gonna do?"

Fred: "Hey, I've got an idea...we'll box all this crap up and label it V-Twin oil. Those Harley ignoramuses'll eat this **** up. They'll think we made up a special oil just for them!"

Charlie" "You're a ******' genius, Fred."

 
I take off on a 400+ mile ride and return to lots of oil talk.

The oil threads live. :lol:

SonoratoSonora.jpg


 
I used the Mobil 1 20w-50 V-Twin in my Warrior.

I Use the MX4-T Mobil 1 in the Feejer.

 
Now repeat after me: "The first number in a multigrade oil rating corresponds to the cold start-up viscosity ('w' stands for winter) while the second number corresponds to the operational viscosity". Sooooo, if the manufacturer lables it properly, a 0w-40 will start moving around the engine on start-up easier than a 20w-40. Both oils are still forty-weights once the bike is up to temperature, however. As long as you use a forty-weight oil, that's all that really matters (if it ain't too cold out). Bikes usually don't need too low a start-up viscosity given their normal usage. I run Mobil's Delvac 1 5w-40 oil because it is a great oil (that I got a hell of a deal on) that will lubricate the top end a lot sooner than 15w-40's or a 20w-40 when I start it up on late Fall mornings. I'll run it in single digit temperatures as long as it ain't freezing out.

I don't see where a fifty-weight would gain you anything in an FJR or similar engine. Liquid-cooled multi-valve engines are better served with forty-weights. These oil circulate faster and remove heat quicker than thicker oils. I would expect that a fifty-weight oil would increase the operational temperature of the FJR beyond that of a forty-weight. Slight pumping losses would also occur. H-D's, etc. are air-cooled and therefore have looser tolerances to accommodate heat expansion. A fifty-weight may be required there. My friend used the Delvac 1 in his Buell and the engine started consuming the oil. Obviously that particular forty-weight (and likely most forty-weights) were not the answer for that engine. An argument might be made that fifty-weight viscosity would have further to shear over the same time. That, I expect, depends upon the oil more than anything else but wet-clutch applications are all hard on the oil viscosity. Don't leave it in there too long.

I like synthetic heavy-duty engine oils (HDEO's) in 5w-40 grade. Shell Rotella T synthetic is one of the better deals for bikes. Esso's XD-3 0w-40 is another great oil that is currently available only here in Canada. Non-synthetic HDEO's are just fine, too, if cold start-up ain't a concern for you.

Hey, what's a bike forum without an oil thread or three? Wanna talk about filters? I'll go away now...

John.

 
I wrote to Mobil and gave them the oil specs from my owners manual and they wrote back and recomended the MX4-T Mobil 1 not the 20w-50. I have allways used Mobil 1 in my fleet vehicles and have seem them go over 300k with no problems. I think I'll switch from the Yamalube 20w-40 to the MX4-T Mobil 10w-40. I don't have to make a trip out to a bike dealer and the price is about as the Yamalube if I buy the MX4-T at the local autoparts store.

 
Oil? Where's that go?
If you own a Hardly just pour it directly on the ground :bleh: :haha:

 
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