Mold Release Agent?

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dgfella

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I'm getting my new Stradas put on this week and was wondering how long before the mold release agent on new tires lasts before it gets rubbed off? I've heard from a few sportbike guys that you should be extra careful for a while, but no one seems to know how long. The guys I ride with kick it pretty hard and I'm worried about riding with them until the tires scuff up a bit under more relaxed use. Any ideas on this?

dgfella

 
The quickest way is to put it up on the centerstand and with an acetalyn blow torch "touch up" the rubber.

 
I normally consider new tires well scuffed in after 100 miles on dry roads. Don't forget that the sides need scuffing in so you need to run through some twisty stuff on both sides. Again, make sure you are on dry roads when doing this.

 
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A method that was passed on to me by multiple tire guys at the race track is to wet a rag with acetone and wipe (applying generous pressure) the tread surface. There used to be a product called Tire Buffer that was used for this purpose - not sure if it is still available. After 15-20 miles (and after I know I have some heat in it to loosen the new tire up a bit) I'm good to go. Your mileage may vary.

 
According to Bridgestone, there is no such thing as mold release on new tires. New tires are slippery simply because the tire's surface is so smooth after coming from the mold. That point made, tires are slippery until the surface is roughened up. The rougher the pavement surface you ride your new tires on, the more quickly this'll happen. I'm lucky in that I live on a tar and chip road that doesn't get enough use to ever become smooth, so one run to town is often enough. Just the same, tire manufacturers warn against applying full power for the first 100 miles, to give the tire time to warm and cure. There's no easy answer to your question... use caution. Personally, I would not use the torch or acetone suggestions. YMMV.

 
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Motorcycle Consumer News did a good article a few months back on this issue. They reported that the "skin" on new tires is a result of the manufacturing process and that the builders don't use "release agents." They tried some interesting methods to roughen up the tire - their favorite was a wire brush! I don't recall the month but I'll try and scan and post the article.

 
A wire brush? You sure it wasn't a torch of some sort? With lots of flame and smoke and gas exploding? Sounds boring.

 
Yeah ! Dots got the idea, how about a good dousing with lighter fluid and touch it off !!

The MCN article did say stiff wire brush or large flat file.

I had more fun doing progressively steeper slaloms on a back road for 50 miles.

 
I don't remember where I saw it but it was a flat file being used. It was done by racers when they got new tires right before heading out to the track. I wanted to confirm if anyone else had seen/heard something similar.

I'm going to be cautious for the first 100, and try to include some twisties.

Thanks,

dgfella

 
You can be fast (like Odot) or be thorough (like Odot's wife prefers).

I've always heard 100 to 150 miles. But it could depend on the type of miles. 150 miles of super slab won't always have you ready for the mountain passes.

You could do all the manual stuff but IMO it wastes your time and (in a lot of the cases) eats off some of the tread. Just ride the farquar and don't plan on being an ass about HOW you ride it for the first 200 miles. That means get out there and take it easy until about breakfast time and you should be okay.

 
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Eye bin nown tuh scuff mah nu tars wif sum 150 grit sandpayper. En ah still takes et eazy on'em. Nuthin's seems tuh werk es gude es runnin thru some figger ates (ther's wunna them thar dang big ol' supermarket en shoppin center thangs nere mah house, so's ah kin yuse thems lot bee-hind the store, whar the trucks be gettin' unloaded in the daytime) en sum twisty roads en lettin'em go thru sum heat cycles. Lak has bin tole yuh uh-bove, a hunnert er hunnert en fitty miles er so orta do it jist fine.

 
Ashamed to admit that I understood that without having to sound it all out.
As did I. The things you learn when you grow up in IA and then move to NV.

The general rule that I adhere to is to ride moderate to easy pace on variable radius twisties until the tire is visibly scuffed across the tread pattern (the entire width, not just the center line of the tire). The figure eight method mentioned would be a great start as well, just be careful for those damn parking lot diesel fuel or oil slick spots.

 
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Ashamed to admit that I understood that without having to sound it all out.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Maybe madmike2 is really Larry the Cable guy. :blink: BTW....as per MCN's column, I used the wire brush on the rear. Worked well. But get ready to toss the brush when you're done.

 
I don't remember where I saw it but it was a flat file being used. It was done by racers when they got new tires right before heading out to the track. I wanted to confirm if anyone else had seen/heard something similar.
I'm going to be cautious for the first 100, and try to include some twisties.

Thanks,

dgfella
FYI...the file method is old school....we were doing that back in the late 60's & early 70's.....still works today...just file the side lightly (til the sheen is gone)....centres will take care of themselves....I would still heat cycle them before you go crazy though....enjoy.... :)

 
The general rule that I adhere to is to ride moderate to easy pace on variable radius twisties until the tire is visibly scuffed across the tread pattern (the entire width, not just the center line of the tire). The figure eight method mentioned would be a great start as well, just be careful for those damn parking lot diesel fuel or oil slick spots.
That's why I use 150 grit sandpaper and scuff the entire radius of the tread, then go out and do varied speed and radii figure eights. I also do some braking, though obviously not at "panic" level. I merely want ot build heat in the tire by making the sidewalls flex.

Then, when I go to the twisty roads, I am not as "fearful" because I've done some minor run-in. In the end, my method is probably no better or worse than anyone else's, it's just what I do.

 
It's not just about the surface of the tire. The new compound/materials in the tires need some time to become supple so they can do their job.

Give a new tire about 60 - 100 miles while progressively increasing your lean angles and you should be set.

-r

 
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