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FJRJeff

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Well, that SUCKED.

I've been at it all day, got the cruise control installed, buttoned it up, and went for a test ride.

I knew something was wrong from the start - when I fired the bike up, it was idling high, around 2K or so.

Cruise didn't seem to do anything...

I don't even know where to start. Anybody got any ideas?

:(

 
I would guess a vacuum leak.
The vacuum hose attached to the cylinder that runs to the CC unit had suction (I didn't add the cannister yet to try and keep it as simple as possible to start. I don't have a gauge to measure the pull, but I could feel it with my finger.

 
A vacuum leak will give you a high idle, and the CC won't work if no vacuum is getting to it, check all connections to the vacuum unit.

Make sure you didn't take any thing off and forget to put it back on.

 
A vacuum leak will give you a high idle, and the CC won't work if no vacuum is getting to it, check all connections to the vacuum unit.Make sure you didn't take any thing off and forget to put it back on.
I didn't have any parts left over. :D

In the morning, I'll pull the tank off again and replace the cap on the vacuum port, then fire it up and see what happens. At least that would help narrow it down.

 
Hmm sounds odd...

1) Not sure why the idle speed would increase - check the tension on your throttle connection as well as throttle return which should be free wheeling. Seems there should be three or four balls of slack if I recall.

2) Remove vaccum connection to double check its NOT a vacuum issue with respect to idle.

Definitely seem mechanical.

Once that is sorted report back here.

As far as the cruise not seeming to do anything, I am assuming your electrical is good. Question - did you weatherproof your control panel - reason I ask is experience - I screwed mine up the first time with sillycone and had to redo it.

 
Have you checked all installation tips supplied with the Audiovox?

Check all dip switches.

Check the LED status on the CC unit as stated in the manual

Check voltages are what they are supposed to be on all wires, especially the brake light circuit which needs to read 0 volts before hitting set.

You do not have to be riding to test the system, do it on the centerstand with the bike in gear (over35mph?) You will know when it kicks in as the cable will tension, and the wheel will speed up for half a second and then the CC will cut out.

Stick with it, just hide all your big hammers until you get it done.

 
Hmm sounds odd...
1) Not sure why the idle speed would increase - check the tension on your throttle connection as well as throttle return which should be free wheeling. Seems there should be three or four balls of slack if I recall.

2) Remove vaccum connection to double check its NOT a vacuum issue with respect to idle.

Definitely seem mechanical.

Once that is sorted report back here.

As far as the cruise not seeming to do anything, I am assuming your electrical is good. Question - did you weatherproof your control panel - reason I ask is experience - I screwed mine up the first time with sillycone and had to redo it.
Tension is good. I tested that before I buttoned it up to make sure it wasn't binding on anything. I did weatherproof the pad, not sure how to tell if I went overboard with the sealant, but I *felt* like I was being careful with it (that means nothing).

 
Make sure that your chain connection to the throttle cam is not interfering with the idle adjusting screw below the cam's idling lug. If you used a cotter pin to connect the chain to the cam lug a portion of the cotter pin may be getting between the cam lug and idle screw. This would raise the idle rpm since the throttle cam can't rotate all the way back down to the idle screw -- a bit of the cotter pin is sandwiched between the cam lug and the adjusting screw.

It is critical that the purple CC servo wire be at ground potential (0 volts) when the brakes are not activated. If a small voltage (1 volt) is present on this wire the servo won't actuate. The two brake light lamps are a low resistance path to ground and should pull this voltage to zero.

 
Make sure that your chain connection to the throttle cam is not interfering with the idle adjusting screw below the cam's idling lug. If you used a cotter pin to connect the chain to the cam lug a portion of the cotter pin may be getting between the cam lug and idle screw. This would raise the idle rpm since the throttle cam can't rotate all the way back down to the idle screw -- a bit of the cotter pin is sandwiched between the cam lug and the adjusting screw.
It is critical that the purple CC servo wire be at ground potential (0 volts) when the brakes are not activated. If a small voltage (1 volt) is present on this wire the servo won't actuate. The two brake light lamps are a low resistance path to ground and should pull this voltage to zero.
Chain connection was done with the bead chain connector rather than a cotter pin. When released, the throttle appeared to be returning all the way home.

 
Chain connection was done with the bead chain connector rather than a cotter pin. When released, the throttle appeared to be returning all the way home.
I suggest re-checking this connection and loosening the CC cable. Maybe even the throttle cable just to figure out the reason of high idle speed. When the throttle is released fast you will hear a distinct tap sound as it hits the throttle stop.

I'm not sure this would cause the CC not to engage though, I'll bet its electrical.

 
FJRJeff --

Is your FJR an '06? If it's an '05 or earlier please disregard the following:

How many hose/electrical connections are disconnected when removing the fuel tank?

On my '04 there are:

- Fuel supply hose from fuel pump in tank -- has a quick-disconnect coupling.

- Fuel return hose to tank from fuel rail pressure regulator

- Electrical plug to fuel pump

- Electrical plug to fuel gauge sender

- Fuel tank breather hose -- follows left side of tank and then down the frame.

- Fuel tank overflow hose -- follows left side of tank and then down the frame.

I'm curious because in two photos I've seen of a raised '06 tank I didn't see the fuel return hose and I only saw one hose on the left side of the tank going down into the frame area. With all the changes they've made I wondered if they rethought the tank connections.

 
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I'm starting to feel a little queasy now...

when I pull the vacuum hose off of the cylinder, it still idles high - 2000 - 2500.. it was not doing that before the install. I only removed the one cap for the CC, so none of the others are missing or appear to be cracked.

The throttle is making a full return to the stopper. There's a definite sound when it hits the post.

Jeff

 
I'm starting to feel a little queasy now...
when I pull the vacuum hose off of the cylinder, it still idles high - 2000 - 2500..  it was not doing that before the install. I only removed the one cap for the CC, so none of the others are missing or appear to be cracked.

The throttle is making a full return to the stopper. There's a definite sound when it hits the post.

Jeff
Don't feel queasy next to your bike, cleaning barf off it will not be much fun. :D

When you removed the vacuum line and still have the high idle, did you plug the hole?

Another guess here as I'm not looking at your bike. On the throttle cable up near to the right grip, slide back the rubber boot and loosen the 8mm lock nut and back off the throttle adjustment and let me know if your high idle speed changes.

 
Don't feel queasy next to your bike, cleaning barf off it will not be much fun. :D
When you removed the vacuum line and still have the high idle, did you plug the hole?

Another guess here as I'm not looking at your bike.  On the throttle cable up near to the right grip, slide back the rubber boot and loosen the 8mm lock nut and back off the throttle adjustment and let me know if your high idle speed changes.
Yes, I put the cap back on the vacuum port.

I don't know where the lock nut is - there's a little boot with two cables going in to it, that goes to what I assume is the position sensor. Can you clarify?

It starts up at 2K, then when it's warmed up, instead of dropping, the RPMs increase to 2500 or so.

 
Of course the high idle (approximately 2000 rpm) at a cold start is not controlled by the throttle assembly. It's strictly a function of the coolant temperature -- the ECU plays no role. As the coolant temperature rises the engine rpm stabilizes at 1000 rpm.

The only intake air leaks you might have introduced during the CC installation are:

-- Air leaks around the fuel injectors if you removed the fuel rail.

-- Air leak for vacuum connection to CC

You can easily pinch shut the CC vacuum hose to see if it has any effect on idle speed. If you had a vacuum leak on just one cylinder, the idle would likely be a bit rough and uneven.

Most likely your high idle is caused by an interference with the idle adjusting screw.

 
OK. Here's where I'm at. We tried a few things and just dialed the idle down with the adjustment screw. I've gone through and checked the test LED in the unit and it turns on as described in the manual when the various buttons/pedal, etc. are pressed. Checked voltages on all the wires, and aside from not getting actual zeros (I get some wandering mV value), when I do what the manual says, the voltage reads as 12v (plus a little).

I had one bad connector on the backlight wire (gray from the control pad) which I fixed, but it did not affect the operation.

When on the centerstand in 5th gear, I run the speed up to around 40 or 50 with the unit on, hit Set and.... nothing.

Jeff

 
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