need 3 tools. Short on time so i am asking the experts

[bandit]

I am changing the tires on my FJR this week. I was wondering what size the allens are for the axles. I have some, But nothing close to that big. I also need to retorque the head bearing, Will replace them later on with tapered, But I am making a trip in 2 weeks .

Thanks for any help.

Ride safe all.

I dont know if it matters, but my bike is a 2005 with ABS. Not sure if the hardware is different on the second gens. Thanks again.

 

[Charlie Hoss]

Hey Bandit,

It's 16 degrees out there but I just went out to the garage and checked the size of the axle pinch bolts. They require a 6MM hex key (Allen wrench) for removal.

I haven't done the steering head thing yet, but the FJR service manual says after lubing and reassembly, the lower ring nut needs to be torqued in two steps, the initial tightening at 37 ft/lbs, then loosen it one turn and retorque it to 13 ft/lbs.

The steering stem nut on top is 85 ft/lbs.

Have fun,

Charlie

 

[madmike2]

I am changing the tires on my FJR this week. I was wondering what size the allens are for the axles.

IIRC, they are 19mm front and 14mm rear.

I bought my tools (Axle hex tool and steering head spanner) from https://www.whaccessories.com/YamahaFJR1300accessories.htm.

 

[6mmbr]

The hex head of a 1/2" bolt will fit in my front axle perfectly. Hold with vice grips.

 

[Silent]

You know that knifty spark plug tool that Yamaha supplied with your tool kit? Amazingly enough, the big end fits the front, and the small end fits the rear. Due to production quality, you may need to file/grind the tool a tad to get a propper fit. Mine works just peachy for pulling both tires.

 

[Charlie Hoss]

I guess I didn't read your question very well. The large hex in the front axle is 17MM or 3/4 inch. Since very large hex keys are usually rather spendy, most of us use an alternative. I have a threadrod coupler nut for 5/8 threaded rod that measures exactly 3/4 inch across the flats and it fits the axle perfectly. However, I happen to know that different brands of couplers have different thicknesses, so measure before you buy.

I have also used a spark plug socket. Remove the rubber insert, turn it around backwards, put in a 3/8 drive socket extension and it fits well also.

Seems like for the rear axle, remove the pinch bolt (same size hex as the front?) Loosen the big axle nut and carefully drive the axle out.

 

[terrysig]

big second on the reverse the spark plug socket. the only way i've ever removed the axial.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

The large hex in the front axle is 17MM or 3/4 inch.

17mm = 0.6693"

19mm = 0.7480"

 

[ionbeam]

The front axle is indeed 19mm, the rear is 14mm. The steering head nut needs a special tool, as shown at the Bike Johnny site:

clickable pic:



The notch in the tip is important because it lets the wrench clear the castellations in the steering nut. If you get a wrench without this notch, the tang on the tip will not be able to fully engage.

You know that knifty spark plug tool that Yamaha supplied with your tool kit? Amazingly enough, the big end fits the front, and the small end fits the rear. Due to production quality, you may need to file/grind the tool a tad to get a propper fit. Mine works just peachy for pulling both tires.

My Yamaha supplied tool kit's nifty spark plug tool was vastly over matched to remove my front axle, I twisted that sucker right up. If I had needed to remove my wheel any place but my garage I would have needed to use a tow truck or trailer. Hint: try to remove the axle bolt at home to see if your tool kit spark plug wrench is adequate. (Yes, the pinch bolt was loose )

 

[bandit]

Boy do I feel stupid. (no comment necassary guys) After i posted I went out in the shop to see what I had. Found that a spark plug socket that has the 3?8 drive hole all the way thru works fine for the front. You invert the socket over the extension. Found a bolt from the bandit I tore down fit the rear perfectly. Now all I need is for the tires to arrive.

Thanks for all the help. Guess I will be ordering the steering head tool soon.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

It's amazing what you'll find once you set out to search for it.

 

[motorcycle-ed]

I have changed uptyleven tires on mine and never had a tool in the axles. To Loosen the nut, just leave the pinch bolts tight on the non-nut end and loosen the nut. Back the nut almost all the way off, then loosen the pinch bolts on the opposite side, then tap the axle out using the nut and a block of wood held to it. The axle will back out of the opposite side, no problem. When you have tapped enough that the nut bottoms out, the remove the nut and use a 3/8 extension and tap the end of the axle until the boss backs out of the other side, then pull the axle out by hand.

Installation is not a problem either. Push the axle through (the rear may take some jiggling, but set the tire on some wood blocks to line up the axle hole) enough to get the nut on, run the nut on the shaft and you should be able to tighten the nut without having to hold the axle. There is enough friction to hold it in place. If not just tighten the pinch bolts LIGHTLY on the side opposite the nut to create just enough friction to hold the axle from turning. Once the axle nut is torqued, the torque down all the pinch bolts. DONT NEED NO STINKIN BIG ALLENS!

Of course I have a PHD from Goldbergs (Rube of course) School of hard knocks...YMMV.



Ed

 

[ionbeam]

I have changed uptyleven tires on mine and...on the non-nut end and loosen the nut. Back the nut almost all the way off...then tap the axle out...Push the axle through...enough to get the nut on...DONT NEED NO STINKIN BIG ALLENS! ...YMMV

:blink: Yes, my mileage does vary, my '04 front axle does not have a nut that I can find.

Your method does work to remove the rear axle. Upon reassembly I have on occasion lightly tightened the rear axle pinch bolt but really prefer to use the BMF Allen wrench to hold the axle to be sure all the rear swing arm parts pull together correctly.

 

[Silent]

My Yamaha supplied tool kit's nifty spark plug tool was vastly over matched to remove my front axle, I twisted that sucker right up. If I had needed to remove my wheel any place but my garage I would have needed to use a tow truck or trailer. Hint: try to remove the axle bolt at home to see if your tool kit spark plug wrench is adequate. (Yes, the pinch bolt was loose )

I've pulled both front and rear at least 4 times each and never used anything other than that knifty spark plug tool to hold the axels. My spark plug tool is still as good as it ever was.

 

[Charlie Hoss]

Boy do I feel stupid. (no comment necassary guys) After i posted I went out in the shop to see what I had. Found that a spark plug socket that has the 3?8 drive hole all the way thru works fine for the front. You invert the socket over the extension. Found a bolt from the bandit I tore down fit the rear perfectly. Now all I need is for the tires to arrive.
Thanks for all the help. Guess I will be ordering the steering head tool soon.

Boy, do I feel stoopid, too. Any knucklehead knows that 1 MM = approx .04 inches. Of course it's 19 MM that is approx 3/4 inch on the front axle. I gotta stop hangin' out here after midnight!

 

[lnewlf]

If you tighten the pinch bold to hold the axel while torqueing the nut you will pull the right side of the swingarm in a couple of mm. The pinch bold should be loosened to let the arm spring out to it's natural position and then retightened.

 

[stagecoach]

Bought a chisel at Sears that was made from hex stock and happens to measure 19mm. I hack-sawed off a two inch length of it and inserted it into a 19mm socket, and voila, I can use it on my torque wrench to set the front axel correctly. $8, and no more guessing

 

[wfooshee]

I have changed uptyleven tires on mine and never had a tool in the axles. To Loosen the nut, just leave the pinch bolts tight on the non-nut end and loosen the nut. Back the nut almost all the way off, then loosen the pinch bolts on the opposite side, then tap the axle out using the nut and a block of wood held to it. The axle will back out of the opposite side, no problem. When you have tapped enough that the nut bottoms out, the remove the nut and use a 3/8 extension and tap the end of the axle until the boss backs out of the other side, then pull the axle out by hand.
Installation is not a problem either. Push the axle through (the rear may take some jiggling, but set the tire on some wood blocks to line up the axle hole) enough to get the nut on, run the nut on the shaft and you should be able to tighten the nut without having to hold the axle. There is enough friction to hold it in place. If not just tighten the pinch bolts LIGHTLY on the side opposite the nut to create just enough friction to hold the axle from turning. Once the axle nut is torqued, the torque down all the pinch bolts. DONT NEED NO STINKIN BIG ALLENS!

Of course I have a PHD from Goldbergs (Rube of course) School of hard knocks...YMMV.



Ed

Front axle on mine ('03) doesn't have a nut; the threads are in the fork end. No tapping out here!

My front axle tool (3" extension in the business end of a spark plug socket):

 

[old&slow]

I am changing the tires on my FJR this week. I was wondering what size the allens are for the axles. I have some, But nothing close to that big. I also need to retorque the head bearing, Will replace them later on with tapered, But I am making a trip in 2 weeks .
Thanks for any help.

Ride safe all.

I dont know if it matters, but my bike is a 2005 with ABS. Not sure if the hardware is different on the second gens. Thanks again.

My 2008 takes a 19mm allen on the front axle ,,,, 14 mm on the rear....

I ordered S&K 1/2 inch drive allen sockets on-line had them in a few days ,,,

don't remember the cost ,,,but don't think they were that much..