Need some expertise on a Fork Stem Bearing issue

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majicmaker

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I got a set of PR4's installed at the dealer today and I was told my bearings are bad. They lifted the front tire off the ground and told me to turn my handle bars from side to side. There is a spot at dead center that feels like a notch. I've felt that for a while. Didn't think anything of it thinking that the notch was just a centering thing.

The cost of the bearings isn't that bad but, its a 3 hour labor charge. I told them to hold of until I confer with the Forum. Will that actually take 3 hours to do. Looks simple enough to do if I can talk a Buddy into a case of beer while I do the work and they sit there and watch me to make sure I don't screw something up. What say Youz Guyz?
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Sounds good, ahchiu. I'll do that. I know I've got to find a spanner wrench somewhere. I'll weigh my options. I'm a pretty mechanical guy. It doesn't look like rocket science. Just wondering if it's worth my time as opposed to having them do it. Thanks.
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Majic, it is a long and involved undertaking, albiet not rocket science.

3 hours for a shop sounds ok to me. Took me longer.

Good news is the FJR bearing races are pretty accessable for removal via a long punch.

Cutting the lower bearing off the stem is a pain.

btw, the stock bearing torque is too low for tapered bearings.

 
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Thank You, SunRider. That's the aspect of it that I wanted to hear about. I'm sure I can do it but, I need to do it now and I have absolutely no time to be playing with something like that the moment. I think I'll leave this one for the professionals. :)

 
From what I recall, you don't HAVE to upgrade to taper bearings. Are they better? Sure. But how many guys on this forum have still got their stock bearings after zillions of miles? I believe I read something about that on the forum. The forum will correct me if I'm wrong about that. Problem is typically not enough grease throughout their service life. However, as you can guess, its much easier to grease em than it is to replace them. I've got the spanner, actually it's a castle nut socket. I can mail it to ya, though knowing the post office, it won't be free. I can get it back from ya next time we meet up??? Don't be afraid to tackle the job. You can indeed do this. It's cheap and most of the work is easy. FWIW, I've also go the large dia. socket for the top nut on the fork tubes if you need it as well. Hey-- tell Jim it's time for another tech meet at his place. We're overdue for some of that amazing coffee he's got.

Gary

darksider #44

 
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Yes, agreed. If yoiu already have a notch it is time to replace the bearings.

And if I was in the position to need to do this (or have it done) I would certainly lay out the paltry few extra bux to put in tapered bearings. That way you know that you'll never have to do it again.

 
One thing you don't want to do is leave them over-torqued. I have a friend that had a '69 CB750. Those bikes (like the FJR) rely on a certain amount of damping action in the bearings to inhibit bar shake at certain speed. This isn't engine buzz, it's induced in the steering by various things. Anyway, the "conventional wisdom" at the time was to tighten the steering stem "for all you're worth". He did that as a routine.

I came to borrow the bike for a day's ride. Steering it was a real bear. It had developed a series of, essentially, click stops, where the one or both of the races had deformed such that as the balls would want to keep falling into the detents. He said he'd never noticed it. Of course, that's because he'd grown used to it. Once I showed him, of course, he says "I'll be darned".

 
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You guys are Amazing!
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Gary,

Thanks for the offer of your spanner and suggesting a Tech Day but, I'm Balls to the Wall and waist deep in the middle of my Audit. That wont change until just before the Key West Run. I think that 3 hour labor charge is looking pretty good right now!

Ionbeam,

Thanks for the threads. They pretty much pushed me over the edge to go ahead and let the dealer do it this time.

Fred,

I won't mind doing it again. I'll have a chance to do it myself in another 80K miles.

Rich,

The dealer will set the right torque value. Problem, Solved!
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Yes, agreed. If yoiu already have a notch it is time to replace the bearings.
And if I was in the position to need to do this (or have it done) I would certainly lay out the paltry few extra bux to put in tapered bearings. That way you know that you'll never have to do it again.
My thought as well. Since you have to replace bearings and races together anyway, the cost difference is minuscule to have superior tapered bearings.

 
Any dealer worth having wrench on your stuff should be willing to order aftermarket parts for you. Keep in mind they will get their cut by marking them up. Ask the price before committing to the deal.

 
If you have a choice on the bearings, order Timken 32006x 92ka1. You will need 2 sets and seals, 1-each top and bottom. And FWIW, another head bearing picture story, this one from Dcarver. LINK I mean if Don can do it, anyone can. These are available for as little as $20 each plus shipping on Ebay.

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