New (to me) 2006 - difficult rear axle removal

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Dutch

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2013
Messages
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Location
N MI
Hello all –

Last week I purchased my first FJR – a 2006A model with 10,000 miles on it.

One thing that attracted me to this particular bike was the fact it still had its stock tires on it – and they still had some wear left on them! This bike was at a dealer and they provided me with the name and phone number of the previous owner so after speaking with him I learned he used the bike during the first year for two trips out west and the bike pretty much sat in the garage for the next five years. He was good with oil changes and removed the battery to put in the house every winter (still good). He also mentioned if you keep the bike around 60 MPH on the freeway you get really great mileage. No wonder the stock tires lasted so long.

All in all – in my mind this was the used FJR for me. After a day spent getting to know the bike up the freeway and on a variety of backroads I am encouraged by the prospects of this platform. Step one will be a new set of Pilot Road 3’s which I ordered last week. The front came quick and the rear will be here the day after tomorrow. The front wheel came off fine, although this is my first bike with anti-lock brakes – it was no big deal. After getting the new tire mounted/balanced and putting it back on I attempted to pull the rear wheel and the axle wouldn’t push through - it moved over less than an inch and just refused to go any further. It would spin easy but not slide through the differential and swingarm. The day was getting late so tools got put away and I sat down with the service manual the dealer generously let me borrow. I figured something had rusted to the axle and didn’t want to force anything so I put a little penetrating oil on what could be reached before closing the garage door. The next day I tried using a hammer with a brass drift and gained perhaps another half inch but that was it, another application of oil and close the garage to think this over a bit more. While sleeping last night the vision of using my air hammer to get that axle out came to me and today I used that hammer against a 12” long ¼” socket extension up tight to that axle and it buzzed it right on through. The problem was the sleeve the fits over the axle inside the differential – it was pretty much rusted to the axle. I was able to clean them up nicely and they will be coated in grease when the wheel goes back on. This experience has me thinking of where else could things be rusting – perhaps the shock linkage – steering neck? Living in N Michigan there will be 6 months of downtime arriving soon (too soon) so these components will be coming off for inspection, are there any other areas where rust can sneak up on me?

Thanks for the help – this seems like a good source of information from an enthusiastic wide ranging customer base.

 
Congrats on the new purchase and finding the fix to the axel and I'm kind of partial to the blue faster 06 if you know what I mean. Also welcome to the forum where here you'll find a wealth of information on your new bike and many answers to all your maintenance requirements.

I would apply some Honda Molly paste to that axel and drive components to keep any further corrosion from occurring. Also be sure and check with your dealer if you haven't already to make sure all the recalls and updates have been done on your bike. Lots of info here on this subject as well as many others by doing some simple searching. It's well worth doing. Best IMO is go to bing.com type in subject or question and then type in fjrforum.com. Good luck and enjoy the new ride. Nice score with such low miles and great condition. Maybe even post up some picks so we all can enjoy. P.M.

 
I'm sure someone will be along shortly with more advice on what/where to look for possible corrosion and/or 'dry' areas, however, now you have the rear wheel off, you might want to lube the spines on the drive-shaft, the rear shock linkages & dog bones, and the rear brake caliper bolts.

While you're at it, I suggest you change out the various hydraulic fluids -- brakes and clutch, as brake fluid is hygroscopic and should be changed out regularly -- at least every two years. I do mine annually.

You'll also want to make sure any recalls have been done, and inspect the various ground spiders for possible corrosion.

Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on the new ride!

 
Not necessarily corrosion but gummed up grease can also be an issue. Check the following:

Swingarm bearing (probably OK)

Steering head bearing (probably OK)

All rear suspension pivot points. The top one on the relay arm is a ***** to get. Center stand has to come off - read about it on the forum.

Rear brake pivot - more likely gummed than corroded but should be removed, cleaned and regreased (common problem that causes rear brake to stick on a bit)

Shifter pivot and linkages - gummed

Brass bushing in clutch lever. Dirty and gummed and will wear out if not lubed occasionally.

Front brake lever pivot and clutch lever pivot

Throttle cables if they don't seem to move freely

Side stand and center stand for sure

Pull the final drive and make sure the splines and shaft are not corroded. A little fresh grease on the splines. Make sure the U-joint moves freely

Of course, hydraulic fluids (brakes and clutch) need to be refreshed. Remember that the rear brake has to be bled at the lower nipple on the right front caliper as well as the rear caliper. One bleeder per side for the front brakes.

Might as well do coolant too.

Final drive fluid if not already done

Might not hurt to pull the slider pins on the brakes and make sure they aren't corroded. A little fresh grease on them before reassembly

Essentially, anything that moves (or is supposed to move) could be an issue for a bike that has been basically neglected for a number of years.

Check for corrosion in the tank. Not a common problem but there have been a few cases...

Pull the air filter and make sure rodents haven't been using it for a nest - a few cases have been reported.

This is by no means comprehensive - read the owners manual for maintenance schedules and assume that because of age, most of the stuff should be done (lubrication) even if the mileage milestones haven't been reached.

Have you verified that the recalls have been done on this bike? Dealer should be able to tell based on VIN #.

 
Thanks for all the ideas - lots of good areas to inspect for sure. I did check with the service manager concerning recalls and he couldn't see anything needing to be addressed. There are no obvious areas of corrosion (including the inside of the tank) - that was looked at before I agreed to buy the bike. The original owner seemed to be knowledgeable about how to store a bike. Here is a "proof of ownership picture" with the 10,000 mile Metzlers showing.



 
Great find with the low mile '06...you're going to love it!

Change all the fluids and spoon on your fresh set of tires and enjoy it for a couple months. A thorough inspection over the winter will uncover any issues needing correction.

Congrats on the new [to you] ride.

--G

 
Interesting how "blue'd" the exhaust pipes. Unusual, but not unheard of.

Maybe something to do with all the 60mph running the bike has done, probably running very lean at this low throttle setting.

For me the most serious issue would be brake fluid as pointed out above. Once you start "using" an FJR properly, you will be occasionally braking hard. Could be literally fatal if any moisture in the fluid boils.

Enjoy!

 
Just a stupid question...you are lifting on the wheel while trying to pull the axle out, right?

 
You realeased the pinch bolt for the rear axle also? Right?

I think Ross hit most of what MIGHT need to be checked. Go a bit at a time. All, except that upper swingarm pivot are pretty easy.

 
My best friend and his son have had FJR's since '04 and I've done all the tire changing and maintenance on those bikes. Have put a few miles on both of them also so the routine is something I'm familiar with. As mentioned in my first post, the dealer loaned me the factory service manual to use until my ordered manual arrives. I learned a long time ago that no matter how familiar you feel with a service procedure, have the manual open and read the instructions.

 
I got 13K miles on this set of tires. Had to pull the manual out again because I couldn't remember how to do some of the stuff. I have no idea how the darksiders remember after they finally wear out a rear tire.

 
Not likely. Those were PR2's. Could have gotten a bit more off of them but I have a trip to Houston tomorrow and didn't want to chance it. That's mostly commuting and traveling miles...not fun, twisty, pushing them, miles. I do have a Bandit 400, but it's not running and I doubt it'd be harder on the same type of tires.
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The FZ1 was sold shortly after getting my FJR. :(

 
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I'm keeping my FZ for now - perhaps making it (more) naked.

I also had a Bandit 400 - sold it last summer.

Have some parts left over if you need something.



 
Wow – what a sweet ride. Spooned on the rear PR3 today and took it down my favorite “scrub in new tire” road. This is a rough, complicated, off the beaten path road that I have been playing on for a long time. The new tires have transformed this bike (I’m not surprised). Funny thing – one of my favorite of all time bikes from my past was my 1990 FJ1200 – purchased brand new. While storming down this road, the way this bike handled and particularly that “honk” from the air-box brought back memories of that big FJ. Here's a picture from the overlook at the dam on the way up to Deals Gap in 1991 in the back of my short bed Toyota.

This looks like the beginning of a beautiful relationship.



 
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