Oil change

[Pierre]

I normally change the oil before the new season, bike stays in storage for winter from November till May.

I am using Mobil 5010 ( half synthetic ) oil.

Isn't it better to replace the oil & the filter before the cold season ?

This way the motor will have the oil additive during the winter ?

 

[TILAM]

I always change mine before I put it away for the winter as I like it to "sit" with fresh oil in it for the long sleep. I understand that old oil has acids in it that can etch the engine's internals if left in there. There may also be moisture/condensation in the old oil that is also undesirable.

I don't change again in the spring until I have 5,00 kms on it.

Aways worked for me but again that's all I've ever done so who knows it would have been deterimental.

 

[Fred W]

I normally change the oil before the new season, bike stays in storage for winter from November till May.
I am using Mobil 5010 ( half synthetic ) oil.

Isn't it better to replace the oil & the filter before the cold season ?

This way the motor will have the oil additive during the winter ?

Well, the key is not the additives so much as getting the nasty acidic waste product that have collected out of the engine.

But I think depending on how long the layup is, and how used the old oil is, will determine how much it would matter. Sometimes, I don't bother.

 

[kawabeemer]

The oil change should be done before the winter lay up. The old oil has picked up acids and other undesirables from the engine. The hope is that dumping the old oil will get most of these 'bad elements' out of your engine so they won't have a chance to chew on the internals over the winter.

I have never seen any research to back this up, but it does seem logical.

 

[Warchild]

I haven't owned a cage since 1996.... so I don't have to worry about this issue too much. I don't really have a choice in the matter.

That said, I believe it prudent to consider Fred's observation regarding acidic nasties.... these, we don't want sitting around in the motor for the six months.

I would indeed change the oil and the filter immediately prior the storage. If it is feasible the start and run the motor about 1-2 times a month - long enough to get the engine oil quite hot to burn off any internal moisture - I would do that also.

Come April, I (personally) might feel inclined to change the oil again prior to regular road use, though changing that barely used filter is likely overkill.

 

[Pierre]

I haven't owned a cage since 1996.... so I don't have to worry about this issue too much. I don't really have a choice in the matter.
That said, I believe it prudent to consider Fred's observation regarding acidic nasties.... these, we don't want sitting around in the motor for the six months.

I would indeed change the oil and the filter immediately prior the storage. If it is feasible the start and run the motor about 1-2 times a month - long enough to get the engine oil quite hot to burn off any internal moisture - I would do that also.

Come April, I (personally) might feel inclined to change the oil again prior to regular road use, though changing that barely used filter is likely overkill.

Why is some people are saying DO NOT start the bike during the storage ?

I always did, tinking it was better that way...

The bike is in a heated garage for the winter, do you think I should start it or not ?

 

[Fred W]

That said, I believe it prudent to consider Fred's observation regarding acidic nasties.... these, we don't want sitting around in the motor for the six months.

Six months? Damn, you must think I live in Alaska!

Lets see... It's December, Just rode today and hope to get at least another one in before the "solid fog" collects too heavily. I usually get it back on the road by April fools day. Lets call it 3 months. Now you know why I sometimes don't bother, if I've changed it recently.

This year, the Rotella T synthetic oil in the crankcase has ~4k miles on it so it WILL be getting changed. Eventually...

(says the procrastinator extraordinaire)

 

[Fred W]

I haven't owned a cage since 1996.... so I don't have to worry about this issue too much. I don't really have a choice in the matter.
That said, I believe it prudent to consider Fred's observation regarding acidic nasties.... these, we don't want sitting around in the motor for the six months.

I would indeed change the oil and the filter immediately prior the storage. If it is feasible the start and run the motor about 1-2 times a month - long enough to get the engine oil quite hot to burn off any internal moisture - I would do that also.

Come April, I (personally) might feel inclined to change the oil again prior to regular road use, though changing that barely used filter is likely overkill.

Why is some people are saying DO NOT start the bike during the storage ?

I always did, tinking it was better that way...

The bike is in a heated garage for the winter, do you think I should start it or not ?

The reason is that when you first strart the bike there is a lot of corrosive condensation that occurs as the bike warms up. If you don't run the bike up to Full Oil Temperature then the engine will not be warm enough to evaporate those nasties away. Just getting the coolant up to temp is not nearly enough. The oil temp lags the coolant temp by a great deal.

I know what you mean. We northerners go through horrible motorcycle withdrawls. We want to hear our motors run, even if we can't ride them. But it really is a disservice to do that to them. Just sit on your bike and make the Vroom-vroom noises. Make sure your wife or SO is away. You don't want to get caught...

Hope that helps...

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

<snip>...Just getting the coolant up to temp is not nearly enough. The oil temp lags the coolant temp by a great deal.

Generally...., though -- on the FJR -- there's a lube oil-to-coolant heat exchanger that tends to keep both at the same temp.

 

[Warchild]

That said, I believe it prudent to consider Fred's observation regarding acidic nasties.... these, we don't want sitting around in the motor for the six months.

Six months? Damn, you must think I live in Alaska!

I was referring to Pierre's time-line of Nov-May... I could never last that long.

 

[fjr105]

I typically store the bike with oil that has less then 500 miles on it, and I start the bike at least once a mouth and let it run for 40 + minutes also in that time I ride it down the dead end road I live on or put it on the tripod and let it ideal in 1st & 2nd gear, I figure this is plenty of time to charge the battery and evaporate any condensation in the motor, I will change the oil in spring / April after 1 or 2 20/50 mile rides, just the way I do it, no test, just covers my OCD

BTW, my bike is kept in the garage and it never gets under 40+- except when the garage door is open for a short time.

:cold:

 

[Fred W]

<snip>...Just getting the coolant up to temp is not nearly enough. The oil temp lags the coolant temp by a great deal.

Generally...., though -- on the FJR -- there's a lube oil-to-coolant heat exchanger that tends to keep both at the same temp.

That may well be true after the oil gets up to temp, but it's a lot quicker getting the coolant up to temp than the oil. Right?

At least this has always been true in my automotive experiences when there are coolant and oil temp gauges. Although the volumes of oil and coolant are smaller in the bike, their proportions are similar, and the principle should be the same.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

The heat-exchanger heats-up the oil as the coolant warms-up. Theoretically, they (coolant and lube-oil) are at the same temperature -- warming-up with a closed stat and then operating between stat open/close and fan off/on.

Theoretically....

I guess, ultimately, we'd need a test w/thermometers and such....?

 

[Pierre]

Thanks guys !

Oil is change, will not start the bike before end of april

 

[RichardS]

This topic has been discussed at length by every exotic car owner/club. My Corvette & '08 FJR sit in an unheated garage all winter season (usually Nov to April 1). I drive them over 10 miles prior to the oil/filter change to get the fluids up to operating temp. I change them, and never start up until I drive them out next spring. Remember, water boils at 212F. A vehicle running in a garage is #1 dangerous, and #2 will almost never get the oil over 212. I use synthetic oils in both for added oil film retention over this inactive period. If I were to use normal oil in the FJ, I would crank the motor over several times each month with the kill button on so it would not start. (edit. - oops, this don't work! Thanks Fred W for this info)

The Vette has digital readouts on the oil & water temps, plus instant MPG. I monitor the oil temp during parades. You can't imagine how long it takes for oil to reach past 212 during idle or slow speeds, nor how fast your average MPG falls during the same period. At last season's high gas prices, it costs more to be in the parade than driving to the parade.

Oil coolers do their job well !! I've had the Vette for 8 years, drive it 6000 miles a year, and change the oil once a year. I doubt the FJ will be here for 8 years, so I'm not quite that fussy about it on this topic. My humble opinions.

 

[Bungie]

Oil is change, will not start the bike before end of april

Unfortunately, we live in the same area. My bikes been away since early Nov. Stored in buddies garage. I won't even look at it again till April.

FackABunchaWinter!

This morning, -32C, and we've had about 2' feet of snow in the last week.

I spend my time planning summer trips and building squirrel flingers to keep me amused.

 

[Fred W]

If I were to use normal oil in the FJ, I would crank the motor over several times each month with the kill button on so it would not start.

Good idea! Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. :angry:

The starter motor is inhibited via the kill switch, as well as the ignition and fuel injection.

 

[RichardS]

If I were to use normal oil in the FJ, I would crank the motor over several times each month with the kill button on so it would not start.

Good idea! Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. :angry:

The starter motor is inhibited via the kill switch, as well as the ignition and fuel injection.

Thanks for the bad news Fred, I just went to the garage and tried it on the '08 AE. Another stupid idea from Japan!! I love riding this bike, but working on it is the pits. I just installed a Coocase & while trying to wire it up for the case brake lights, discovered the Yamaha wiring harness to the running/ brake lights is too short to get the bulbs out of their sockets!! Now what?? When I tried to remove the right side panel where the rear brake reservour is, I found 2 metal screws, 3 plastic screws, and 1 plastic clasp/pin thingee. Then the upper panel top rim is tucked behind the right & left parts so it just doesn't come off, it needs to be bent a tad for removal & installation. The engineering on this bike leaves much to be desired. On my '94 Ducati, all 8 bolts that held the entire fairing on were right out in plain view. I stlll haven't found several on this bike to come close to removing the fairing. And the list keeps growing.....