I use NGK CR8EIX - Iridium IX Spark Plug and Ebay seems to have them the cheapest.
I read they will last 18,000 miles but I usually swap mine when I swap tires at around 10-11 thousand miles.
Oil consumption
- Thread starter bajaleo
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
I read they will last 18,000 miles but I usually swap mine when I swap tires at around 10-11 thousand miles.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
I've gone back to using the normal spark plugs and now change them out every valve check, or every 30k miles or so. No issues.
I did an ebay Iridium plug buy the first time, but beat it this time by going to Advance Auto Parts online (www.advanceauto.com), watching the discount codes, buying and picking up at a local store. I now buy all my filters & plugs that way. The codes usually are not good for oil tho, so Wally world Rotella syn is the way I go.
Back to this original thread - I see you are doing the ring free treatment and maybe that's what it needs (let us know) but 16K miles on a '07 - depending on when that was put on (as in initially then it sat until you bought it) could contribute. Mine doesn't use a drop of oil that I know of.
Last edited by a moderator:
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
FWIW, my '05 started using some oil right around the 100k mile mark on the odometer. The first time I noticed it was when the oil light came on right about when it was due for a change. I cjange at 5K and always use Rotella dino oil. I added almost a quart to bring the oil level up to the top of the glass so I would be sure to have plenty in there to get home.
The next 10 or 15 K miles it continued to use some oil, about a quart every 5K miles, though I did check it often and kept it topped off rather than waiting for the light to come on.
Earlier this year I took a 9.5K mile ride to NAFO and back and it did not use a single drop of oil. That ride did include one oil change in a Walmart parking lot. So, whatever the cause, it is no longer a problem. I can only assume a sticky ring or something that un-stuck itself. I will continue to keep an eye on the oil level.
I bought a couple bottles of Sea Foam which I intended to add to the fuel this season to help stop the oil consumption, but I never got around to using it. I will use it now, even though the problem went away, to help prevent it from coming back.
The next 10 or 15 K miles it continued to use some oil, about a quart every 5K miles, though I did check it often and kept it topped off rather than waiting for the light to come on.
Earlier this year I took a 9.5K mile ride to NAFO and back and it did not use a single drop of oil. That ride did include one oil change in a Walmart parking lot. So, whatever the cause, it is no longer a problem. I can only assume a sticky ring or something that un-stuck itself. I will continue to keep an eye on the oil level.
I bought a couple bottles of Sea Foam which I intended to add to the fuel this season to help stop the oil consumption, but I never got around to using it. I will use it now, even though the problem went away, to help prevent it from coming back.
Last edited by a moderator:
RavFJR
Well-known member
Reading the plugs and doing a compression test are a good start for a diagnosis. With the relatively low mileage and usual power you’re seeing, I suspect that the rings weren't properly broke in (seated). If so, this might be something you’re going to have to live with – or do a rebuild. Can you ask the original owner if they used synthetic oil at engine break-in (as this is a no-no)? I hope it’s something less serious, but just wanted to add my 2 cents. Good luck and keep the forum posted on your findings…
Enn
Well-known member
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Top_Speed1
Panama Canal Crosser
I kept the OEM breakin (lightweight petroleum) oil in until 600 miles as recommended, then went directly to Mobil-1 Synth
RavFJR
Well-known member
+1 for me, but I use Bel-Ray Synth. Here's an excerpt for an Amsoil article expressing the reason for the use of dino oil for break-in:
"Breaking in a new engine is the one area that petroleum oil is better for than synthetics. You see, petroleum oil has a very low film strength which is ideal for breaking in a new engine. That is why we recommend you run the factory installed petroleum oil for about the about the first 500 miles. Then drain the oil, remove the factory installed oil filter and then install AMSOIL Synthetic motor oil and an AMSOIL Super Duty oil filter and your ready to go".
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Ahhhhh......... AMSOIL. Figures.
And what about all the OEM high performance vehicles such as the Corvette and Porsche that come from the factory with synthetic?
RavFJR
Well-known member
You are absolutly correct, Corvette and Porche do use synthetic oils from the factory... They're also very high-end precision vehicles. I'm not forcing anyone to use dino oil as a break-in oil... However, I do (it's a personal choice) based on my experiences.
And a motorcycle engine like the FJR or variety of sportbikes isn't? Pffft. :glare:
I'm pretty sure tolerances for the FJR engine are comparable or exceed those of these particular automotive products. In fact, average Volkswagens spec synthetic too (including break-in) and aren't exactly "high-end".
I think the tales of break-in recipes are increasingly becoming that of myth....and would imagine increasingly good fodder for the Mythbusters.
Gunny!
And reason enough to move this now mostly off-OP thread to its new home.
Last edited by a moderator:
LAF
Well-known member
While I am a synth user I would never use it in break-in. BMW would not recommend it until 18,000, Nikasil coating and all that. When I went new jugs on the Road Glide with Nikasil jugs again not until 12,000. As I do not know the composition of the FJR coated cylinders I went 12,000 till I switched.
The misconception comes from the cross hatch grind on the cylinders that the rings must rub against to make a seal.
Also synth goes a lot further than dino and it would be a waste to dump it at 300 or 600 or even every 3 or 4k.
I do not know if the cars mentioned have coated cylinders or what type but I would follow the recommendation of the manufacturer.
I also dumped the FJR oil at 200 miles and then had the 600 done. On the Road Glide I dumped it at 50, 200, and then ran it 4k. When rebuilding a motor grindings and dirt, and initial wear, not to mention motor assembly grease will not be a good thing. Oil is cheap and new or rebuilt motors are going to have more wear in the first couple miles than anytime in it's life.
Synth is not a economical wash oil and I do feel it is to slippery to allow rings to seat to a cross hatched coated cylinder.
The misconception comes from the cross hatch grind on the cylinders that the rings must rub against to make a seal.
Also synth goes a lot further than dino and it would be a waste to dump it at 300 or 600 or even every 3 or 4k.
I do not know if the cars mentioned have coated cylinders or what type but I would follow the recommendation of the manufacturer.
I also dumped the FJR oil at 200 miles and then had the 600 done. On the Road Glide I dumped it at 50, 200, and then ran it 4k. When rebuilding a motor grindings and dirt, and initial wear, not to mention motor assembly grease will not be a good thing. Oil is cheap and new or rebuilt motors are going to have more wear in the first couple miles than anytime in it's life.
Synth is not a economical wash oil and I do feel it is to slippery to allow rings to seat to a cross hatched coated cylinder.
Last edited by a moderator:
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
LAF
Well-known member
Type this a search bar and read for yourself. synthetic oil vs standard
I am done on this topic and will not fuss with you over it. One of the properties of synth is flow at temps, no breakdown at temps, and most of the information tells of better gas mileage and a very distinct difference in wear when using synth. And if you read some of the race information you will see almost all tell of longer times between rebuilds when using synth. If that is not slippery then I am using the wrong word to describe it.
Use what you want when you want it but a true Hydro Cracked synthetic motor oil will run circles around dino oil in any test you will read.
FJRay
Well-known member
A number of years ago MCN did a multi issue test on oil including synthetic and dino oil. I can't quote the results but the high quality dino oils like Delo and Rotella tested as well as synthetics in most catagories.
My 03 has used a little oil when run hard ever since the tick was fixed. I would rather add a little oil than seize up a part that needs oil. Been running Delo 400 15/40 since new.
Lets get going folks, it's Friday and it's an oil thread.
My 03 has used a little oil when run hard ever since the tick was fixed. I would rather add a little oil than seize up a part that needs oil. Been running Delo 400 15/40 since new.
Lets get going folks, it's Friday and it's an oil thread.
Last edited by a moderator:
Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
From what I have read, and based on my personal experience, the only advantage of synthetic over quality dino oil is under high temperature use. Synthetic oils will, typically, retain their desirable properties at higher temperatures than dino. So, that explains why race engines like it. And maybe that explains why it does better in some tests.
FJRay
Well-known member
That's why one of the few times I go for syntetics is for my Harley customers. It does a better job in the heat here on the high desert. Those poor old tractors need all the help they can get.
Similar threads
