Oil Filter Interchageability

[Flylooper]

Does anyone have a list of interchangeable oil filters for the FJR? TIA.

 

[GunMD]

Check here:

https://fjr1300.info/mods/oilfilter.html

 

[fjr]

https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

 

[Toecutter]

The Purolator PL14610 is supposed to interchange. I wouldn't contaminate my bike with that (blue) color though, YMMV. The Napa 1356/Wix 51356 WILL NOT WORK, although it is listed as a replacement in the catalog. I looked at them side-by-side the other day. The threaded portion in the OEM filter is more recessed, which allows the seal ring to contact the flange solidly. That's not the case in the Wix/Napa. I'm gonna be sticking with OEM for now, at least while it's still under warranty. Try Gary Mc Coy, University Motors 866-551-6478 for good prices on OEM parts like spark plugs, filters, etc...or the local parts superstore/Walmart for the aftermarket brands.

 

[deano]

the walmart supertech 7313 ($2.07) is the same filter as the bosch 3323 ($6.00) and I have used both without any problems.

 

[Clark Kent]

I hope everyone here understands, it just not the fit of a filter.

All filters are fitted with a back pressure device that keeps the filter full of oil so there is enough oil in the filer (when you start the bike up after it has been sitting for 2 or 3 weeks) to lub your bike as soon as the motor is running.

If the filter you have is not a factory filter (and doesn't have the right back pressure) it could be empty of oil when you start up the bike.

It will really put a lot of extra wear on the engine. It woun't show up for a while, but it will show up in a much shorter engine life!

Good luck. CK :

 

[BrunDog]

I hope everyone here understands, it just not the fit of a filter.
All filters are fitted with a back pressure device that keeps the filter full of oil so there is enough oil in the filer (when you start the bike up after it has been sitting for 2 or 3 weeks) to lub your bike as soon as the motor is running.

If the filter you have is not a factory filter (and doesn't have the right back pressure) it could be empty of oil when you start up the bike.

It will really put a lot of extra wear on the engine. It woun't show up for a while, but it will show up in a much shorter engine life!

Good luck. CK :

Uh oh here we go...

A quick search would give you information ad-nauseum. :good:

-BD

 

[weekend rider]

One that works for sure tried and tested BOSCH that is all I use. No leaky of

that black goo. :clap: weekend rider

 

[nusman68]

Oh, no! Make it stop! Now I get to read all the 'Well, I found Brand-X oil filter at the dollar store, and it fits so it must be okay' <_<

Oh yeah? Well I found Brand-Z oil filter at the closeout section of my dollar store and only paid .89 cents and it fits, so it must be okay...top that! <_<

Hmmm...if you're worried about spending an extra 5.00 for an oil filter for your $12,000 motorcycle...well, good luck with your Fisk-brand tires and gas.... :dribble:

 

[deano]

Read the info on the above posted links! If you think paying $12.00 gets you a better filter by all means spend it Ace, its your money.

 

[SkooterG]

I hope everyone here understands, it just not the fit of a filter.
All filters are fitted with a back pressure device that keeps the filter full of oil so there is enough oil in the filer (when you start the bike up after it has been sitting for 2 or 3 weeks) to lub your bike as soon as the motor is running.

If the filter you have is not a factory filter (and doesn't have the right back pressure) it could be empty of oil when you start up the bike.

It will really put a lot of extra wear on the engine. It woun't show up for a while, but it will show up in a much shorter engine life!

Good luck. CK :

Back pressure device?!?!?!

Yo Clark, I think the Kryptonite is turning your brain to mush!

Typical scare tactics mis-information, though I don't believe you are doing it purposefully.

First of all, my FJR never sits for 2-3 weeks. Shame on you.

Second, there is an anti-drain back valve, and more importantly, a by-pass valve in oil filters. Now Ken, if you would have gone to the linked website, you would have seen that most of the recommended alternative oil filters have both. So its not the end of the world, cats and dogs are NOT living together, and your FJR engine won't wear any more than with a OEM filter.

C'mon folks. Oil filters are NOT rocket science.

And Toe, shame on you for playing the warranty card. Magnuson-Moss Act prevents OEM from requiring their own brand of part XXX to remain in warranty.

 

[Stu64]

Recommended filters.

All have superior

filtering.

About 2.5 inches long.

Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.

Mobil M1-108, about $12.

Made by Champion.

Bosch 3300, about $6.

Made by Champion.

About 3.25 inches long.

Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.

Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.

Made by Champion.

Bosch 3323, about $6.

Made By Champion.

WalMart SuperTech ST7317,

about $2. Made by Champion

 

[nusman68]

C'mon folks. Oil filters are NOT rocket science

-I agree. But if you think all oil filters are the same, you're fooling yourself..In the early '90s at the car repair shop I worked at, we used a 'typical' standard Purolator filter for all our oil changes; worked fine, no problems. One day, the sales rep. comes by to do his usual order for oil filters, shows us a new 'econo' oil filter, also made by Purolator; cost us $2.00; (we were paying 4.25 - 4.50 for the regular ones depending on model). The owner of the shop went for the cheap ones; when we got them in we immediately noticed that the 'canister' itself was a thinner gauge metal than the standard filters and could be easily dented in with your hand; (not a problem taking an old filter off since it will be disposed of anyway) you had to be very careful screwing it on; also the paint they used on the filter appeared 'duller' and 'thinner' (yeah, so who care about the paint, right?). Fit-wise, the cheap ones fit fine, but we had a few that sprung a leak in the form of a pinhole right through the canister itself (shortly after checking for leaks when the oil change was done). We never bothered to cut one apart to compare the filtering media, but if it leaks, it's not worth a **** anyway... we tried them for a couple of months, went back to the standard ones....so even though they were made by the same company, the specs were not the same....

 

[Toecutter]

Uh oh here we go...
A quick search would give you information ad-nauseum. :good:

I did some exhaustive searching, and unsatisfied, I got lazy and asked a well-known forum resident and trusted automotive expert. The following is his response, re-printed with permission:

Any educated opinions, OEM, or is something else better for my FJR? Read through almost all your posts, got tired and lazy, figured I'd just ask.

I use the OEM filter.  No guessing that way.  I figure that Yamaha must have done some testing with that filter so it is proven to work.  Why test other filters??
If you are really concerned about oil filters realize that the absolute most important time for an oil filter is when the engine is first started for the first time and run for the first few minutes of breakin.  If you ever want the ultimate in filtration then is the moment.  After that, what is the filter really going to catch??  Not much.  The engine just doesn't generate much if any debris (unless it is getting ready to explode).  A MC filter has to catch the debris generated by the trans (those dogs engaging do make a bit of a mess sometimes) but we are not talking tiny micron particles there.  Pretty big stuff so most anyfilter will work.

Honestly, you can make a case for replacing the filter once after breakin and then forgetting about it in many situations as the filter would likely never catch enough debris to clog and cause flow restriction.  Oil filters (and the need for a killer filter) are greatly exaggerated.  On the other hand, changing it and cutting it open for inspection can tell you a bit about the health of the engine and trans so it is more informational than anything.  I think that once the engine is broken in most any filter will work fine for what (little) it has to do.    I just use the OEM one because I know it flows adequately and Yamaha has already done the design and validation on it so I don't have to think about it.  Aftermarket oil filters are a real crapshoot.  They deal strictly on cost to beat the OEMs for cost so you will buy their part and rely on marketing to convince you they are better.  I have rarely, if ever, seen any aftermarket oil filter that is better (or even nearly as good) as the OEM supplied filter.

Even things like aftermarket filters that claim to flow  more or filter finer particles are really suspect.  We found that the finer filtration media was actually detrimental to engine life over several hundred thousand miles because the ultrafine filtration of the synthetic media in some of the "premium" filters caused more flow restriction  (no way to avoid this....finer holes...more restriction) and thus the system bypassed more oil past the filter.  So....the oil that got filtered was filtered "better" but less got filtered.  The engine is better off with more filtration more of the time even if the filtration is not as fine.  The finer filtration filters were pulled from the aftermarket in our case based on our findings.

That sort of thing is why I like the OEM parts.....the work is done for you and you don't have to guess.

I figured the info was worth archiving and sharing. YMMV

 

[nusman68]

@ deano: maybe you should read the links you refer to: the paragraph below came from one of them:

What Not To Use: Bosch, STP, and Wal-Mart SupertechWhile both the STP and the Bosch filters were at one point good filters, they are now manufactured off shore of sub-standard parts. The filter assemblies tended not to have even pleats and generally less media than other comparable filters. There was also a complete lack of a well functioning by-pass valve. With most filters there is an obvious and discrete by-pass valve, but with these filters the can spring and the by-pass valve are the same. The real issue is that in order for the filter to properly by-pass the entire filter assembly would have to move down during use. That is actually not possible with filter assembly properly seating into the anti-drain back valve. This means that the by-pass will effectively never work. In the center of the of picture below you see the filter assembly (top) and the can spring/by-pass valve (bottom). (The can spring / by-pass valve would flip over and into the filter assembly.)

NTPOG Oil Filter review

This is a classic example of 'internet experts' or 'it must be so because it's on the net'; you can find completely conflicting reports about the same thing. What is so disconcerting is that in a separate article (done by a different person, that has its own hyperlink to the above) gives good marks to the filtering ability of the Wal-Mart filter; so, who/what do you want to believe? I believe that even today, you still 'get what you pay for' to a certain degree. The common denominator here in these 'evaluations' is that in each case the 'evaluator' was not an oil filter/lubrication engineer, just an intelligent person determined to shed some light on a (many times) market-driven consumer product. So despite their worthy endeavour and good intentions, in the end they're not qualified and as such their efforts, in my opinion, raise more questions than answers.

 

[Flylooper]

I believe that even today, you still 'get what you pay for' to a certain degree. The common denominator here in these 'evaluations' is that in each case the 'evaluator' was not an oil filter/lubrication engineer, just an intelligent person determined to shed some light on a (many times) market-driven consumer product. So despite their worthy endeavour and good intentions, in the end they're not qualified and as such their efforts, in my opinion, raise more questions than answers. The reality is that many "branded" companies sell identical products to the private label market (such as Bosch/Wal-Mart or Whirlpool/Sears or Del Monte/Kroger) in order to keep costs down. It's much more cost efficient to make 10,000 widgets in a production run than 2,000 for your own premium priced "brand." I think it's logical to assume that this holds true in oil filters as well.

I also have always thought that it holds true in gasoline, motor oil, and other automotive products. (But I've never had the courage to change over to so-called house label motor oils.) But I've run up 260,000 miles on my '91 Toyota truck without it ever being opened up using the cheapest gas I could find.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Flylooper Posted on Feb 28 2006, 12:11 PM<snip>

The reality is that many "branded" companies sell identical products to the private label market....I also have always thought that it holds true in gasoline, motor oil, and other automotive products. (But I've never had the courage to change over to so-called house label motor oils.)

Years ago I had the opportunity to witness long-term oil analysis being done on a small car used in every-day driving. The analysis took place over two years (so there was time to get reliable data) and for two oil changes in the middle of that term: Red Owl Supermarket oil was substituted for the brand-name oil normally used. Know what?....absolutely no difference in analysis results! Admittedly, it's only one case; but, sometimes there are standards that are adhered to. In this case, the Red Owl oil stated on the container that it met some of those standards (like Mil-spec, etc.) even tho it cost only a fraction of the name-brand oils.

Something like this often happens with automotive windshield replacement, I think? Who's gonna ante-up for a genuine factory w/s? No, you get a much cheaper replacement put in -- but, it does meet standards.

 

[radman]

Yes, it uses toilet paper.

 

[Luke]

We need to have lab tests, field experience testing, and expert professional opinion on which brand of toilet paper to use. For instance, would Cottonelle be too restrictive or a better filter media than say...Scott Tissue?