Oil leak on rear drive

[2006FJR]

I was out cleaning the bike like I do each week and I noticed this what looks to be a leak right around this screw. Is this something I should be concerned about?

 

[kaitsdad]

No. Somewhat normal - I don't know if you do your own service, but perhaps a new crush washer or change over to a copper washer.

You might also check tightness, might be a bit loose.

 

[Snakebite]

Looks like you oveloaded the bike on a recent trip. Recommend selling it. Looks like you broke off the clutch lever too! Also word has it that you pull too close to other riders when stopping. Be careful you may come in contact with side bags, mirrors, ets.

 

[El Toro]

Might have been slightly overfilled (hard to do though since full is dripping slightly). When its cool, change the crush washer and retorque it to the right level. I'll bet any weeping goes away. I've got the same model you've got, and mine weeped before I did the final drive fluid change at 600 miles, but it hasn't since. I don't think its anything to be worried about, in any event.

 

[monk69]

Since it's a filler plug as opposed drain plug,you might try using plummers tape(after using the new crush ring,which looks like there isn't one on it now).

 

[Fred W]

I was out cleaning the bike like I do each week. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Yes, you should be very concerned.

It's wrong, I tell ya', just plain wrong.

 

[2006FJR]

Looks like you oveloaded the bike on a recent trip. Recommend selling it. Looks like you broke off the clutch lever too! Also word has it that you pull too close to other riders when stopping. Be careful you may come in contact with side bags, mirrors, ets.

Keep it up Snakebite and the Raptor might need to swoop down and give you a thumping. Interesting how stories change depending on who is telling the story.

All: Thanks for the recommendations and I will see if this screw has a torque setting and will add a cruch washer and some plumbers tape to the threads.

 

[FJRBluesman]

DO NOT ride such a dangerous bike!!!! You could crash if any oil gets on the tires!! I will buy this junk bike for $1 per cc, or $1,298.00USD. :dribble: I'm the next city over I can pick it up today so you'll be safe!

I don't believe you'll need plummers tape, just replace the washer and do NOT over torque it. I usually use my calibrated wrist torque wrench, works fine.

If oil is passing by the threads and the washer isn't holding it back, look at the surface of the bolt head that contacts the washer and the punkin where the washer contacts it. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or gouge, etc.

Good luck.

Or sell me the trash hauler. :blink:

 

[Fred W]

You guys are missing the whole point here. He's washing his bike every week!!!

My gawd! The humanity!!!

 

[2006FJR]

You guys will also be pissed to know I like to keep the bike under a tarp to keep the dust off when I am not ridding it too. There is something about riding a freshly detailed bike. I also clean my windshield after EACH ride so it is always clean. I plan to keep this bike for many years to come or until the new Gen III bikes come out.

 

[Fairlaner]

DO NOT ride such a dangerous bike!!!! You could crash if any oil gets on the tires!! I will buy this junk bike for $1 per cc, or $1,289.00USD. :dribble: I'm the next city over I can pick it up today so you'll be safe!
I don't believe you'll need plummers tape, just replace the washer and do NOT over torque it. I usually use my calibrated wrist torque wrench, works fine.

If oil is passing by the threads and the washer isn't holding it back, look at the surface of the bolt head that contacts the washer and the punkin where the washer contacts it. Make sure there is no dirt, debris, or gouge, etc.

Good luck.

Or sell me the trash hauler. :blink:

Dude it is a 1298cc bike not 1289.....

Trent may run up from santee overloaded it a bit

R

You guys are missing the whole point here. He's washing his bike every week!!!


My gawd! The humanity!!!

wow you only clean it once a week?????

R

 

[FJRBluesman]

Fairlaner - Im dislexickle. Thank you, I stand corrected. Brain fart or my first excuse was good....

2006FJR - You need help. No bike should be that clean.

 

[2006FJR]

2006FJR - You need help. No bike should be that clean.

Fairlaner has the cleanest looking FJR I have seen yet. His bike is much cleaner than mine. :dribble:

 

[FJRBluesman]

2006FJR - You need help. No bike should be that clean.

Fairlaner has the cleanest looking FJR I have seen yet. His bike is much cleaner than mine. :dribble:

Everyone knows Fairlaner has issues... Have you seen his garage???? :dribble:

He has nothing to do all day except polish his bike and clean the garage. He's sick!

 

[Fred W]

2006FJR - You need help. No bike should be that clean.

Fairlaner has the cleanest looking FJR I have seen yet. His bike is much cleaner than mine. :dribble:

Everyone knows Fairlaner has issues... Have you seen his garage???? :dribble:

He has nothing to do all day except polish his bike and clean the garage. He's sick!

Exactly. Fairlaner's garage is cleaner than my kitchen.

Are you sure that you want to emulate that man? :blink:

 

[FJR1300Mark]

Clean it off and see if it shows up again. It could have been some oil left in the area during the last time the differential had it's oil changed. If it still shows up the suggestions with the new washers and or teflon tape - don't over tighter the bolt beyond it's torque value as that may strip out the treads.

I'd clean it up and just check to see if it shows up again.

Enjoy the ride.

 

[Harald]

You are a sicko! Washing each week? My FJR got it's semi-annual wash last week (and some might think that is excessive).

BTW, I'd recommend not using plumbers tape. I wouldn't want little pieces of tape dropping down into the rearend.

 

[El Toro]

I would advise against the teflon tape (also referred to as plumber's tape). This isn't an old Harley.

If you install a new crush washer and if you torque the bolt to the specification, it is very unlikely that it will leak.

If you stick teflon tape on the threads, you do a couple of negative things. First of all, you mess up the expected relationship between the torque and the bolt elongation because you change the friction force. Second, it is possible to get bits of tape down into the drive. While this might not specifically hurt anything, and if you're lucky it might just come out the next time you drain the final drive fluid, I'm sort of against sticking extraneous junk in the vicinity of this final drive gear mesh.

 

[Fred W]

If you stick teflon tape on the threads, you do a couple of negative things. First of all, you mess up the expected relationship between the torque and the bolt elongation because you change the friction force.

Sort of. You will change the torque being applied due to the decrease in thread friction and could end up putting too much strain on those poor little alloy threads. But, although your stretching bolt theory is correct for things like head bolts etc., that fat assed 14mm fill plug isn't stretching one bit with the specified 17 ft-lb of torque applied.

The main thing to consider is that this fill plug fitting is a straight cut thread, unlike a plumbing fitting that is tapered to achieve the seal in the threaded area. The seal is intended to be achieved at the metal o-ring / washer. If you wanted to modify anything it should be that interface (back of the bolt head / washer / face of the drive). Maybe a slightly softer gasket material.

My bet is that the last guy to do final drive service left off the washer or reused a severely scored one. In fact, looking at the original post's pictures, I'm sure of it.

Yamaha p/n= 214-11198-01-00

Same seal for fill and drain plugs on the final drive.

parts fiche