Oil Screw Up!!

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FJR1300Jeff

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I aways use Rotella synthetic 5w40.

I just did my 21000 mile change and put the 10w 30 regular oil I use in my truck. I've only just started the bike for 10 seconds after I changed when I caught my mistake.

Damit....do I need to get that crap out? Am I totally risking my bike by not changing it? I know its only $12 worth of oil but what a pain!!!

 
does it have an energy conserving label on it? I know the FJR is not supposed to have that on it.

No there is no energy saving label on it just regular oil for gasoline engines. I just realize that it is a US gal. 5 quarts. I think I'm one over right?

 
Well I did drain that pretty oil right in the dirty oil drain pan...What a waste!! I also drained the new filter best I could. I'm glad the FJR is an easy bike to change the oil.

This reminds me of a story!!! LOL

When I was 15y/o my buddy Todd's dad gave him a nice 1973 Monte Carlo 454ci with console shift. You know being young and wanting play with his new car. He changed the oil (did not even need changing) You know where this is going don't you!!!

Well he eagerly poured five quarts in the engine all the while forgetting to replace the drain plug. Guess what happened next???

That's right he fired that baby up and proceed to the nearest straight road to let that 454ci sing. About three miles down the road after ignoring some horrible noises the motor sized.

I believe that car sat in his front yard for over a year and he caught rides with me!!!

Well time for me to pour new oil in my FJR...I better remember to put the drain plug back!! LOL

Later

 
I've run 20W-50 Castrol car oil in bikes forever without any problems with engine or clutch. FJR now gets Mobil 1. However, had I dumped 10W-30 in the bike, I think I would have drained it into a clean container and saved it for the cage. Its fun to be cheap. :rolleyes:

 
I just did my 21000 mile change and put the 10w 30 regular oil I use in my truck. I've only just started the bike for 10 seconds after I changed when I caught my mistake.
Damit....do I need to get that crap out? Am I totally risking my bike by not changing it? I know its only $12 worth of oil but what a pain!!!
ASSuming it wasn't the energy-conserving type, you likely would have been fine leaving it in if it was wntertime.

But a viscosity of only 10-30w seems a bit on the thin side to be running during the hot summer,so that would have motivated me to dump the oil and go with something with a higher viscosity on the upper end, at least 40w, if not 50w.....

 
do I need to get that crap out?
No.

I've run 20W-50 Castrol car oil in bikes forever without any problems with engine or clutch.
Same here. Currently have 48k on the CBR 929 and it still runs like new... with the factory clutch still in it. And I don't baby my bikes. They see track and weekend Hill Country duty regularly.

 
Actually after closer inspection it was the energy-conserving type.

So I needed to get it out.........If I had left that oil in and the clutch started to slip is it just a matter of changing it or will it cause major clutch damage????

 
Actually after closer inspection it was the energy-conserving type.
So I needed to get it out.........If I had left that oil in and the clutch started to slip is it just a matter of changing it or will it cause major clutch damage????
If you would have left it in there, you'd be buying yourself a new clutch.

 
Unless the oil you had put in there was at least 5 years old, it was Energy Conserving, and would have been trouble. I am not aware of any 10w-30 oil, which is pretty much exclusively an product designed for use in cars, that is not labeled with the Star. 10-40, 15-50, 5-40, 15-40, and 10-40's are all designed for uses that exclude them from the EStar rating, in addition to their thicker viscosity, which renders them unqualified for the rating, and thus are pretty much free of the additives which can render bike clutches useless.

 
Somehow, the "energy conserving" label seems to now be considered the end-all for whether an oil is motorcycle friendly or not. I don't think this is justified. The biggest factor in whether an oil is EC or not is is simply viscosity (that's why you don't generally see any 15W-50s that are EC - their higher viscosity is the only reason they're non EC) and all common car oils sold today contain friction modifiers to some degree, whether they're EC or not.

While I generally don't think there is anything terribly wrong with running a good car oil such as M1 in a motorcycle, I just don't think the EC label is a good discriminator of whether it can be used in a motorcycle or not. There are probably lots of EC oils that will work fine in a bike and vice versa.

- Mark

 
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