Oil Weight Suggestion

[zzkenoman]

I just left the dealership with all the goodies to do my first oil change, gear oil change, a K&N air filter. However after dumping my oil, I noticed on the manual for my 05 that the recommended oil should be 20-40wt and I had already placed 4 qt of 10-30wt. If I remember right (in my old age) that the lower the number, the better for warmer weather. I assumed that he got this weight oil from asking one of the techs in the back, and since I live in Sunny Orange County, I fligure it would never get below 40F. However I am curious about yamaha recommending the 20-40wt for the FJR, I've already got an email from someone that said any wrong weight oil can contribute quickly to ticking because of the tolorances the engine needs. Can someone enlighten me with the correct facts, and if I should even ride with a lower weight oil, am I riding into desaster?

 

[Howardrg]

***that the lower the number, the better for warmer weather***

I think that you have it the wrong way around.

Howard

 

[SkooterG]

Disaster? No?

Oil weight/viscosity vs. tolerances leading to "the tick"? Hell NO!!!

The lower the number, the better for colder weather. That's a simplistic explanation, but I am not getting sucked into another oil thread!

First of all, don't trust dealers! Sorry, but there are just too many bad ones out there. 10W-30 is somewhat of an abnormal weight for the FJR, but I don't see how its going to lead to meltdown. If you are going to use it, it should be in cooler temps IMHO.

Lots of people around here don't use the 20W-40 since Yamalube is the only oil to carry that weight.

Popular alternatives are 15W-40, 10W-40, and 5W-40, and a few 20W-50. Generally speaking, the 2nd number is the more important number. I wouldn't use 10W-30 as I think its too light an oil, but like I said, realistically, it probably won't make much of a difference.

What is important, is to use a modern good quality oil that is NOT energy conserving, and follow the recommended drain intervals. If you do that whatever magid mojo you choose will work just fine.

Some of the more popular oils that I see people using around here:

Mobil1 MX4T - Motorcycle specific oil

Mobil1 10W-40 I belieive? Their synthetic car oil

Shell Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 (Cheap at Walmart)

Shell Rotella T 15W-40 (Even cheaper at Walmart)

And the boutique oils - Amsoil, Redline, ect.

 

[JimV]

What is important, is to use a modern good quality oil that is NOT energy conserving, and follow the recommended drain intervals.  If you do that whatever magid mojo you choose will work just fine.
Some of the more popular oils that I see people using around here:

Mobil1 10W-40 I belieive?  Their synthetic car oil

As SkooterG said and just to be really clear: NOT the Mobil 1 automotive oil. If you look at the round SAE label on the back and it says "Energy Conserving", carefully place it back on the shelf.

Actually, I think the Mobil 1 automotive is 0w-40 but I'd hate to see someone make that mistake.

And just FWIW, I use Silkolene 10w-40 100% Syn motorcycle oil because I think its good oil and you can get it, like many of the foriegn boutique lubes, in a 4 liter jug which is the perfect size for the FJR. If I was riding a zillion miles a year, I'd probably use the Rotella Syn from WalMart.

Cheers,

Jim

 

[Warchild]

I have obviously gone insane, for I am responding to an oil thread. :haha:

If it were me - if I were in your shoes now - I would probably go ahead and dump the 10-30w and go at least with a 10-40w (probably 20-50w even, since you live in sunny, warm SoCal). Otherwise, it would bug me knowing I have a lighter than spec oil in the crankcase. In reality, though, SkooterG has nailed it: you're not exactly "headed for disaster".

I am Old School, and therefore since your bike is relatively new, I would hold off going to full synthetic for another one or two oil changes. Again, that's just me.

So if it were me, I'd be hopping on down to Shuck's or AutoZone, etc, and score several quarts of Valvoline 20-50w motorcycle oil (or whatever flavor petroleum-based motorcycle oil your religious beliefs specify), and change oil again. Though I personally would not bother changing your new oil filter, even though it means leaving a bit of 10-30w in there. It's not *that* big a deal.

In addition to being Old School, I am also a non-conformist: in my FJR (~30K miles), I run a blend of half-part Mobil One 15-50w *automotive* oil, and half-part Valvoline motorcycle oil. On the latter, I'll run 10-40w during winter, 20-50w during summer.

I shall now go shoot myself for entering another interminable oil thread... :lol:

 

[Centerline]

"I just left the dealership with all the goodies to do my first oil change, a K&N air filter."

Be careful with that K & N air filter. You will get much better results with an oil filter.

I like the Mobil MX4T for my beast.

 

[zzkenoman]

What an honor for Warchild to jump in, and want to thank everyone for clarification. I will certainly dump the 10-30wt for the 20-40wt as Warchild suggested, and move to the synth after a year or so, if I can break in the bike more.

Also, I'm unclear about Centerlines comment about the K&N Air Filter VS. "I like the Mobil MX4T for my beast." What did I miss about air cleaner?

 

[SkooterG]

Also, I'm unclear about Centerlines comment about the K&N Air Filter VS. "I like the Mobil MX4T for my beast."  What did I miss about air cleaner?

He was making a joke - using an air filter to do an oil change. Get it?

And where did you get that Warchild recommended 20W-40?

And finally:

What an honor for Warchild to jump in

Oh brother! Give me a break. Have you ever seen that dude's legs? :lol:

 

[zzkenoman]

Could be my mistake, who started this FJRForum?

 

[Warchild]

Slapnpop. He turned SkooterG and I on to it in early June. The rest is history.