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especially in hills where mudslides are common (California) you will find mid turn depressions in roads. If you don't know a road well, are scraping pegs and hit a quick dip, your going to be grinding hard parts of your bike, and hopefully you're ATGATT.

 
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I've actually ridden a section of roadway with tight but rhythmic turns where I went from peg scraper to peg scraper 4 or 5 quick turns in a row, toes on the pegs, feeling like I was controlling exactly how much pressure my foot was exerting on the peg scraper as it gently rode over the pavement.
Rich uses feelers the way racers use pucks. ;)

 
It depends on which way you are turning. To the right there is the rear brake lever pivot point that you have to worry about. To the left it is the side stand and the center stand. Both of these are a little way past the peg feelers. The rear brake lever pivot will wear down some but I wouldn't advise it. Being a hard point it will lift the rear tire off the road and then down you go.

I write this just to let those who may have not experienced it know what hits after the peg feelers. For me the main problem is that I have no leaning skills. I've tried and all it ends up doing is unsettling my turn.

I used to commute down Hwy 49 in Northern CA and a lot of the turns were 20-40mph turns. I've found that I lean more in slower corners than fast corners. There has been a couple of times that I have touched down the feelers @ speeds above 60mph but not often.

I loved Shadowfax's picture since his exhaust cans look like mine. :)

 
counter steering power through the corners I'd say 60 degrees
I don't think so. The max lean angle the MotoGP guys are hitting is about 60-65 and I don't think an FJR can come close to the lean angle those bikes/tires can hit.

45 degrees

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60 degrees

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And I've dragged pegs on the FJR and on my SV as well. I would estimate the FJR starts dragging at just past 45 degrees somewhere, maybe close to 50.

The SV has Woodcraft rearsets and good aftermarket suspension so the peg dragging angle on it is probably close to 60, but not quite.

 
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counter steering power through the corners I'd say 60 degrees
I don't think so. The max lean angle the MotoGP guys are hitting is about 60-65 and I don't think an FJR can come close to the lean angle those bikes/tires can hit.

And I've dragged pegs on the FJR and on my SV as well. I would estimate the FJR starts dragging at just past 45 degrees somewhere, maybe close to 50.

The SV has Woodcraft rearsets and good aftermarket suspension so the peg dragging angle on it is probably close to 60, but not quite.
Y'all saw my video posting earlier in this thread (given here again). You can figure the angle unscientifically by looking at the horizon, and how far it angles against the top side of the rectangular video box.

 
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counter steering power through the corners I'd say 60 degrees
I don't think so. The max lean angle the MotoGP guys are hitting is about 60-65 and I don't think an FJR can come close to the lean angle those bikes/tires can hit.

And I've dragged pegs on the FJR and on my SV as well. I would estimate the FJR starts dragging at just past 45 degrees somewhere, maybe close to 50.

The SV has Woodcraft rearsets and good aftermarket suspension so the peg dragging angle on it is probably close to 60, but not quite.
Y'all saw my video posting earlier in this thread (given here again). You can figure the angle unscientifically by looking at the horizon, and how far it angles against the top side of the rectangular video box.
i see i'm not the only one that finds it easier to scrape leaning to the right as opposed to leaning to the left.

has anyone considered raising the suspension, via dogbones or whatever, to increase the cornering of the fjr? i've had it done to my fj and it makes a big difference.

 
i see i'm not the only one that finds it easier to scrape leaning to the right as opposed to leaning to the left.
During the Napa Forum ride a couple months ago, I entered a downhill left-hander kinda hot, with dirt shoulder and a canyon to my right. When the left peg started scraping, I held a constant throttle, looked through the turn, then opened the throttle a tad while pushing the left bar down farther, and thank the lord I got through it. But it made me slow down. But I hadn't realized that, yeah, the right seems to scrape easier.

One thing I haven't mentioned on this thread, and it was true for my Sporty before and the FJR as soon as I got it, is that I set out upon buying a new bike to scrape the pegs. Because I don't want to loose a few bucks worth of my $10 in concentration if it were to happen in a tough situation and I had never experienced it before.

Apart from that, I do like to go fast (no, Sacramento crowd, really... :p ).

Jb

 
Max lean before things start scraping depends a lot on suspension set-up and total loaded weight. I check in at 170 lbs and with no bags on the bike the peg feelers started scraping quicker than I expected them to on my first truely spirited run thru the twisties on it.

Things I learned: You gotta REALLY hang off the FJR to make much difference in lean angle compared to an R6. From the wear on the rear tire afterwards it appears the pegs will scrape just about the time you are getting close to the edge of the rear tire. (Which is a good thing. The feelers let you know you are getting close to riding past the edge of the tire)

As for the talk of going too fast, yes it was too fast for the street. Upon occasion I act quite irresponsibly. More to the point is that scraping parts is bad regardless of whether it's the track or the street. I try to avoid it at all times.

As for sliding: cold tires slide easy... never push a bike on cold rubber!

As for actual lean angle: if I had to guess I'd say the FJR will start scraping something at around a 43- 45 degree angle.

 
this is easy to figure out lean until you fall than you will stop :yahoo:
weekend rider
Actually, you lean until you go SUDDENLY HORIZONTAL, then you slide for awhile....

then you stop.

After using language your Mother wouldn't approve of the real fun begins: Check for bleeding, breathing, shock, protruding or dislocated bones. Pick up all loose pieces of plastic from the roadway...stand bike up...assess whether it is rideable...begin the mental calculations of $$$'s to repair the bike and replace your riding gear. <_< Oh yeah, real fun! :blink:

Yep, let's all go out and experiment with Max Lean Angle on an FJR. You betcha! :yahoo:

 
I set out upon buying a new bike to scrape the pegs. Because I don't want to loose a few bucks worth of my $10 in concentration if it were to happen in a tough situation and I had never experienced it before.
If you can find a safe place to do this, I think its a good idea. A long turn without anything deadly on the outside, just keep speeding up and leaning in, gradually, till you touch the feeler down. Don't panic when it touches, just roll off a bit and the bike will stand back up a bit and you'll have a good idea of where the scrape happens, what it feels like and what it takes to stop it. You don't really want to find all that out on a decreasing radius turn with armco three feet away.

The trick is smooth, small inputs to the steering and throttle. Dragging a peg isn't an instant automatic crash, but a panic reaction when if happens to you for the first time probably is.

 
Under safe, or relatively so, conditions I think it would be very useful to get aquainted with the limits of your bike. Lean angle, braking - all of it. Anyone remember the film on the Japanese police riding competition that was circulating last year? Was kind of like an autocross for baggers. Maybe we should organize one of these?

 
If you can find a safe place to do this, I think its a good idea. A long turn without anything deadly on the outside, just keep speeding up and leaning in, gradually, till you touch the feeler down. Don't panic when it touches, just roll off a bit and the bike will stand back up a bit and you'll have a good idea of where the scrape happens, what it feels like and what it takes to stop it.

I have to disagree here. If you roll off the throttle and stand the bike up, you dramatically increase your odds of running off the outside of the turn. When I touch down a peg on the FJR in the tight stuff, I maintain a light trailing throttle and hold my line through the turn...peg scraping be damned. I've done this with the wife on the back and a full load of luggage going through the Deal's Gap Dragon. Her comment at the end was that it was the smoothest pass we'd ever made through there, and I guarantee she heard/felt the pegs scraping...both sides.

You don't really want to find all that out on a decreasing radius turn with armco three feet away.The trick is smooth, small inputs to the steering and throttle. Dragging a peg isn't an instant automatic crash, but a panic reaction when if happens to you for the first time probably is.

Agreed completely.

 
If there is a Steve Parks Total Control class in your area take it. Get your form on the MC first before you start getting to cocky! TJ

 
this is easy to figure out lean until you fall than you will stop :yahoo:
weekend rider
As a MSF Instructor ( I know there are many here on the board) we have to practice what we preach. Between attending the 3 levels of Keith Code school, a number of track days and practicing Lee Parks techniques I can attest to the fact that learning this stuff MUST be done on the track lest you open yourself up to hurting yourself and possibly taking out someone else in the process. All the bad stuff you can hit or cause you to go down while at your max level of skill/concentration have been described in posts above this one. I've embarrassed myself on the track by showing up with an old ST1100 (only bike I had at the time), but I learned a lot and was a LOT more confident on the street to handle that once in a blue moon overcooked turn entry. If I hadn't done that experimentation on the track, I'd probably be at the bottom of Canyon Lake Road picking Saguaro Cactus spines outamyass. If you feel you can't afford a track day (stay off the beer for a month or two) check out the cost of replacing fairing parts, handle bars, mirrors etc... not withstanding any riding gear or personal damage that may occur. IMHO learning techniques in a controlled environment is the only way to go, but I'll bet there are a number of other riders that agree.

 
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If you roll off the throttle and stand the bike up, you dramatically increase your odds of running off the outside of the turn. When I touch down a peg on the FJR in the tight stuff, I maintain a light trailing throttle and hold my line through the turn...peg scraping be damned. I've done this with the wife on the back and a full load of luggage going through the Deal's Gap Dragon. Her comment at the end was that it was the smoothest pass we'd ever made through there, and I guarantee she heard/felt the pegs scraping...both sides.


You don't really want to find all that out on a decreasing radius turn with armco three feet away.The trick is smooth, small inputs to the steering and throttle. Dragging a peg isn't an instant automatic crash, but a panic reaction when if happens to you for the first time probably is.
+100

 
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