Overheating or not? Coolant temp ind?

[Haironfire]

My '06 1300A has started to jump from the normal 4 bars on the coolant temp gauge up to 5 or 6 at even short traffic light stops here in So. Fla. Neither fan comes on though.

Called the Yammi Service today guy and he said it's o.k., as the fans don't come on until about 215 F. My temp gauge doesn't spike and the warning light doesn't come on.. Engine heat at my legs is def hotter when this happens and smells somewhat hot. Coolant is Engine Ice. This didn't happen until recently and not once on a 4,100 mi trip in July '09, even in 100 degrees in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the New Jersey Turnpike.

In case it's relevant, I have done the Barbarian Mod and adjusted the CO settings per the Forum. Stock exhaust and no PCIII.

Coolant and oil are full and don't leak a drop.

Tech guy asked what my temp reading was, not in bars, but in degrees. Am I right in telling him that I don't have one, or is it something you can program to view on the computer panel?

TIA for any thoughts.

 

[JamesK]

The fans don't come on until a little after 7 bars are displayed on the temp gauge.

The FJR does not have a numeric temp display.

How old is your coolant? Might be time for an FJR ******* described in great detail by Warchild on www.fjrtech.com

 

[Haironfire]

Thanks, James. Coolant's 15 mos. old and 13k miles.

Can I find that "FJR *******" at one of the local bars or in that a dealer issue? :yahoo: ]]

Sorry, ladies, it could not be resisted.

 

[wfooshee]

Counting bars on the gauge is different between Gen-II and Gen-I also. If someone tells you the fans come on at 4 or 5 bars, he's taking about a Gen-I bike. They only have 6 bars on the full gauge.

I don't think you have a problem, unless you find that your water pump has no impeller for some reason. Maybe Engine Ice eats Yammy water pump impellers.

 

[Tree Doc]

Keep in mind that Engine Ice DOES NOT have all the beneficial properties of most anti-freeze formulations. For one, it WILL freeze in freezing conditions. I have learned of many with different models of bikes that have blown freeze plugs. I don't believe it offers any lubricating properties to your water pump. I seem to remember that detail from when I ran it in my SV650S for a couple years.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Interesting...you've described exactly what my '06 began doing this summer. Same symptoms, on a multi-day ride, temperature indicating normally then all of a sudden started running 5 bars at freeway speeds, etc. Ambient temps were in the mid 90's.

At stop/go, slower [traffic] speeds, temperature quickly comes up to 6 bars and then finally settles at 6 - 7 bars with the fans cycling normally. Once back up to speed or out of traffic, temp returns to 5 bars and if outside temp is below 85-ish 4 bars. Been riding it all summer and fall this way, never heated or puked coolant even at temps approaching 110. But at high ambient temps still running 5 bars at higher speeds.

Coolant has been changed regularly with Honda premix. After 40K miles, I first suspected that the radiator fins were partially plugged with bugs, dirt and debris. Fairing plastic was removed and the [external] radiator/fins were carefully cleaned with water. Got a lot of junk out of the fins and a clean radiator but temperature still not behaving as it previously had.

Recently I checked the engine temps with a Fluke Infrared thermometer. Shooting various points, I'm convinced the engine is not overheating and the fans are cycling at the proper temperatures. At 4-5 bars the radiator temps are 175 - 185 F and the fans cycle at 210 - 215. So I'd say your information from the dealer is correct.

So, where do I go now...Bike is due for another coolant change this winter. I'm going to change the thermostat at the same time. Based on my IR thermometer readings, the temperature indicator is reading correctly. With the quick onset of symptoms, I'm betting the thermostat is not opening all the way or quickly enough.

Hope this helps.

--G

 

[JamesK]

Thanks, James. Coolant's 15 mos. old and 13k miles.

Can I find that "FJR *******" at one of the local bars or in that a dealer issue? :yahoo: ]]

Sorry, ladies, it could not be resisted.

I'm afraid it's only for your bike

FJR ******* - Coolant Flush

 

[ionbeam]

...Tech guy asked what my temp reading was, not in bars, but in degrees. Am I right in telling him that I don't have one, or is it something you can program to view on the computer panel? ...

diAG code 06 will let you read coolant temperature in ºC. Run your FJR until you see the feared 6 bars, shut it off, enter the diAG mode, press SELECT until you are at 06, then read the temperature. Now press SELECT until you are at diAG code 51; toggle the red run/stop switch on the handlebar. This should force the radiator fan relay to turn on and run the fans for 5 seconds, then off for 3 seconds; it will repeat this sequence until you leave this code or switch the run/stop switch to the off position.

If you want to pull the temperature sensor you can test it out of the bike. Throw the sensor in your wife's best pot, turn up the heat until her candy thermometer reads 80ºC then ohm across the terminals -- spec is 290-354 Ω.

 

[LAF]

Interesting...you've described exactly what my '06 began doing this summer. Same symptoms, on a multi-day ride, temperature indicating normally then all of a sudden started running 5 bars at freeway speeds, etc. Ambient temps were in the mid 90's.

At stop/go, slower [traffic] speeds, temperature quickly comes up to 6 bars and then finally settles at 6 - 7 bars with the fans cycling normally. Once back up to speed or out of traffic, temp returns to 5 bars and if outside temp is below 85-ish 4 bars. Been riding it all summer and fall this way, never heated or puked coolant even at temps approaching 110. But at high ambient temps still running 5 bars at higher speeds.

Coolant has been changed regularly with Honda premix. After 40K miles, I first suspected that the radiator fins were partially plugged with bugs, dirt and debris. Fairing plastic was removed and the [external] radiator/fins were carefully cleaned with water. Got a lot of junk out of the fins and a clean radiator but temperature still not behaving as it previously had.

Recently I checked the engine temps with a Fluke Infrared thermometer. Shooting various points, I'm convinced the engine is not overheating and the fans are cycling at the proper temperatures. At 4-5 bars the radiator temps are 175 - 185 F and the fans cycle at 210 - 215. So I'd say your information from the dealer is correct.

So, where do I go now...Bike is due for another coolant change this winter. I'm going to change the thermostat at the same time. Based on my IR thermometer readings, the temperature indicator is reading correctly. With the quick onset of symptoms, I'm betting the thermostat is not opening all the way or quickly enough.

Hope this helps.

--G

While having no symptoms of overheating the gauge indicator changing is strange. Your temp readings do indeed show function as the dealer said.

I have seen this first hand be resolved by a new cap. If you are even losing a little pressure it will show up this way and then progress. I am not sure if it has been figured out if any old XX lb. cap from a auto parts store will fit but they are very cheap if there is.

Not saying this is the issue but I have seen higher temp gauge readings and even overheating from a weak radiator cap.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Your issue seems normal to me. You can't accurately judge temps when sitting still or slow. As long as the fans come on when they should and it doesn't overheat beyond that, it's a reasonable indication the cooling system is working properly. But, if you are moving at highway speeds and the temperature indication is normal, not low, not high, you are getting enough airflow (rad not crudded up with bug guts)...

I'm not a believer in snake oil, so next coolant change just use a good antifreeze. Nothing but nothing changes your engine temp except the function of the thermostat and airflow through the rad......

Thanks to the others for the diagnostic tips...

 

[huron52]

Let me tell you this..... If you see all the bars, the last one is flashing on and off, you look down and see fluid spraying out from under the bike.... shut it off

It is a little too warm

 

[Haironfire]

Thanks, RaYzerman19. Good points.

 

[Haironfire]

Thanks all. I feel better. But w/ all the sound observations, here, I'm going to go ahead and replace the coolant w/ standard e-glycol, replace the thermostat and cap, and blow out the system and rad fins.

 

[NSrider]

When my 08 was new it never got above 4 bars unless I sat in traffic for a while but the last two years I have the same symptoms as you do.

I tried everything that was suggested except changing the rad cap but nothing changed. The fans come on at 7 bars which drops it back down to 6 bars in traffic and it drops to 4 bars again soon after I get moving so I don't worry about it anymore.

 

[escapefjrtist]

While having no symptoms of overheating the gauge indicator changing is strange. Your temp readings do indeed show function as the dealer said.

I have seen this first hand be resolved by a new cap. If you are even losing a little pressure it will show up this way and then progress. I am not sure if it has been figured out if any old XX lb. cap from a auto parts store will fit but they are very cheap if there is.

Not saying this is the issue but I have seen higher temp gauge readings and even overheating from a weak radiator cap.

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the radiator cap. I briefly thought about it, but w/o any evidence of overheating...not even a hint of ever boiling or overflow tank dramatically increasing level, I ruled it out.

While I agree that a leaking radiator cap will decrease the cooling system pressure [and the boiling point of the coolant] it still doesn't explain the shift in perceived engine temperature at cruise speeds. I ride all year, so I plan on keeping a close eye on things until I change the coolant and thermostat...stay tuned.

--G

 

[escapefjrtist]

When my 08 was new it never got above 4 bars unless I sat in traffic for a while but the last two years I have the same symptoms as you do.

I tried everything that was suggested except changing the rad cap but nothing changed. The fans come on at 7 bars which drops it back down to 6 bars in traffic and it drops to 4 bars again soon after I get moving so I don't worry about it anymore.

Did you end up changing the thermostat or just the coolant? When I change mine, I plan to test the old one in a pot of water and see exactly when it opens.

--G

 

[NSrider]

When my 08 was new it never got above 4 bars unless I sat in traffic for a while but the last two years I have the same symptoms as you do.

I tried everything that was suggested except changing the rad cap but nothing changed. The fans come on at 7 bars which drops it back down to 6 bars in traffic and it drops to 4 bars again soon after I get moving so I don't worry about it anymore.

Did you end up changing the thermostat or just the coolant? When I change mine, I plan to test the old one in a pot of water and see exactly when it opens.

--G

I changed both. The original one was fine so I now have a spare.

 

[LAF]

While having no symptoms of overheating the gauge indicator changing is strange. Your temp readings do indeed show function as the dealer said.

I have seen this first hand be resolved by a new cap. If you are even losing a little pressure it will show up this way and then progress. I am not sure if it has been figured out if any old XX lb. cap from a auto parts store will fit but they are very cheap if there is.

Not saying this is the issue but I have seen higher temp gauge readings and even overheating from a weak radiator cap.

Thanks for the suggestion regarding the radiator cap. I briefly thought about it, but w/o any evidence of overheating...not even a hint of ever boiling or overflow tank dramatically increasing level, I ruled it out.

While I agree that a leaking radiator cap will decrease the cooling system pressure [and the boiling point of the coolant] it still doesn't explain the shift in perceived engine temperature at cruise speeds. I ride all year, so I plan on keeping a close eye on things until I change the coolant and thermostat...stay tuned.

--G

Just wanted to throw it out. I have seen it act as if there is air in the system that wont burp out. It will as you said produce higher temps.

I hope you find it and get it squared away.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I'm not a believer in snake oil, so next coolant change just use a good antifreeze.

********! I seen you adding Leopard piss to your coolant when you were here.. Bill an geek pointed it out.

:jester: