Passport voltage meter

[TheAxeman]

I was running my Passport radar detector off the supplied power outlet on an '06 and the voltage meter would jump around wildly, so much so that it was difficult to read. I am now running the detector through a Marineco cigarette lighter socket which I am running through a switched Blue Sea power block and the voltage meter stands steady at a constant voltage, maybe fluctuating by .2 or .3 volts....FWIW

 

[FJRChief]

I was running my Passport radar detector off the supplied power outlet on an '06 and the voltage meter would jump around wildly, so much so that it was difficult to read. I am now running the detector through a Marineco cigarette lighter socket which I am running through a switched Blue Sea power block and the voltage meter stands steady at a constant voltage, maybe fluctuating by .2 or .3 volts....FWIW

I'm going to run a V1 and had planned on using the supplied power outlet on an 06....will I have to use a power block as described above?

Wade

 

[Mogan]

I've been monitoring my passport in voltmeter meter for some time. It's hardwired to its own circuit on a bluesea bus and it consistently reads high by about .2 to .4 volts relative to a datel and a good bench voltmeter. I'd benchmark yours before relying on it for system load info.

 

[ionbeam]

If I use my DMM to measure voltage right at the terminals where my Passport is connected my meter agrees exactly with the Passport. It is important that you measure right across the terminals and do not have the ground lead located anyplace else. BTW, I'm using the telephone type jack to power my Passport.

 

[Geezer]

For my X50 I used the wire that had been used to power my right horn before I installed the balsters. I hardwire the ground directly to the battery. I still get some fluctuation in the tenths of a volt display. Sometimes it flashes quickly and within a range of a few tenths, sometimes not. Not sure about how accurate it is overall but I figure that after I get used to whatever it normally displays without added load then I can safely add things up to about a 1 volt drop. Even with high beams and Hella F50's on I don't get that big of a drop.

 

[bmwhd]

For my X50 I used the wire that had been used to power my right horn before I installed the balsters. I hardwire the ground directly to the battery. I still get some fluctuation in the tenths of a volt display. Sometimes it flashes quickly and within a range of a few tenths, sometimes not. Not sure about how accurate it is overall but I figure that after I get used to whatever it normally displays without added load then I can safely add things up to about a 1 volt drop. Even with high beams and Hella F50's on I don't get that big of a drop.

I also use the +1 volt rule of thumb when the 8500 is drawing via a cig lighter plug. When wired direct, it seems to be very close.

I've seen that wild flux thing in my car when the connections were loose OR the charging system on the car was having problems (loose battery cable, voltage reg going south, etc.).

 

[Toecutter]

I'd try some dielectric grease on the plug contacts and see if it makes a difference before going through the hassle of hardwiring one on an '06, unless you're already planning to add a terminal strip.

 

[ionbeam]

This is why the last digit on my 8500 flickers:

Each vertical square is 1 volt = 1.75 volts of garbage on the electrical line my 8500 is plugged into. If your digits are flickering you are looking the culprit. [The reason the scope face doesn't read 14 VDC is because I set the scope to block DC to make it easier to shoot the noise.]

I have a bunch of electrical parts on order, should have all the parts within a couple of weeks. After the install is done I will 'scope it out' so to speak and see what it looks like then.

 

[sleddoc]

This is why the last digit on my 8500 flickers:
Each vertical square is 1 volt = 1.75 volts of garbage on the electrical line my 8500 is plugged into. If your digits are flickering you are looking the culprit. [The reason the scope face doesn't read 14 VDC is because I set the scope to block DC to make it easier to shoot the noise.]

I have a bunch of electrical parts on order, should have all the parts within a couple of weeks. After the install is done I will 'scope it out' so to speak and see what it looks like then.

So just set the 8500 to display the H or Highway and not the supply voltage and be done with it ! The 8500 doesn't function any differently on my FJR than the one in my GMC truck or Chrysler 300. :wacko:

 

[Geezer]

So just set the 8500 to display the H or Highway and not the supply voltage and be done with it ! The 8500 doesn't function any differently on my FJR than the one in my GMC truck or Chrysler 300. :wacko:

What you don't know won't hurt you.....

Actually, I want to know the voltage so I can keep an eye on how much stress is being put on the stator. I know that the only thing I have added that draws significant power is the Hella FF50 lights and I'm satisfied that they don't add enough draw to cause a problem.

I wonder how much the voltage may drop if the fan comes on while I have the high beams and Hellas on. Not a likely scenario for me since I'll only have low bean on while stopped or stuck in slow moving traffic, but it could happen.

 

[sleddoc]

So just set the 8500 to display the H or Highway and not the supply voltage and be done with it ! The 8500 doesn't function any differently on my FJR than the one in my GMC truck or Chrysler 300. :wacko:

What you don't know won't hurt you.....

Actually, I want to know the voltage so I can keep an eye on how much stress is being put on the stator. I know that the only thing I have added that draws significant power is the Hella FF50 lights and I'm satisfied that they don't add enough draw to cause a problem.

I wonder how much the voltage may drop if the fan comes on while I have the high beams and Hellas on. Not a likely scenario for me since I'll only have low bean on while stopped or stuck in slow moving traffic, but it could happen.

I dont have the 8500 in front of me but if memory serves the MAX current draw is less than .5 Amps.

 

[Geezer]

I dont have the 8500 in front of me but if memory serves the MAX current draw is less than .5 Amps.

Yes, the detector and other electronic farkles add very little draw on the charging system.

We are using the volt meter on the Passport to give us an indication of the total draw on the system, not just what the Passport draws. The idea is that if there is heavy draw on the charging system the stator will not be able to provide the required wattage. Watts being composed of amps X volts, you get an indication of the stress on the stator by watching the voltage in the system. Us parsimonious types (I know - speak for myself ) like to use the voltage feature of the Passport, which pretty much comes for free, rather than adding a single purpose volt meter.

 

[sleddoc]

I dont have the 8500 in front of me but if memory serves the MAX current draw is less than .5 Amps.

Yes, the detector and other electronic farkles add very little draw on the charging system.

We are using the volt meter on the Passport to give us an indication of the total draw on the system, not just what the Passport draws. The idea is that if there is heavy draw on the charging system the stator will not be able to provide the required wattage. Watts being composed of amps X volts, you get an indication of the stress on the stator by watching the voltage in the system. Us parsimonious types (I know - speak for myself ) like to use the voltage feature of the Passport, which pretty much comes for free, rather than adding a single purpose volt meter.

If the bike stops running - then you have a problem - have fun.

 

[ionbeam]

Riding during the evenings in Maine after Labor Day can be a balancing act between PIAAs for MOOSE, deer & little varmints vs heated grips or heated clothing. Since I already have the Passport it's a handy way to watch the voltage.

The big problem is that you can run your voltage down below 12.7 volts without knowing it which is why you would need some kind of volt meter. You can ride along just fine at or a below 12.7 volts, but just stop for something and then you have a no restart situation. Try that in Baxter State Park after dark. You hope morning finds you before the bears do :glare: 'cuse nobody else is going to drive by. Riding with voltage <12.7 volts for a while is also a good way to ensure an Electrosport stator in you future to replace the fried stock stator.