Pictures Of Trailer Tie Down Points

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TWILKIN650

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2005
Messages
438
Reaction score
1
I've waded through a number of posts on successful trailering of the FJR. Could someone direct me to pictures of good front and back tie down points. I may have to trailer next month, and can come up with soft straps, and rachet type tie downs, but need info on the actual attachment points and tricks of the trade....

Thanks!

 
Use CycleCinch.com. Skip the CanyonDancer which I found very difficult to use with my ZZR, but the cyclecinch look like the ticket.

Tie your rear wheel down with a single long strap that runs around the rear tire - keeps it from hopping around.

A front wheel chock would be a good idea, but no essential IMO. You can make a simple one out of wood or metal channel.

 
Thanks; this will be a Kendon trailer so tie down points on the trailer won't be a problem. Does anyone have FJR specific tie down points for the bike? Where, how much compression, etc.

 
Thanks; this will be a Kendon trailer so tie down points on the trailer won't be a problem. Does anyone have FJR specific tie down points for the bike? Where, how much compression, etc.
Lower triple clamps using some soft ties to hook the straps to. Rear wheel cinched to and pulled to each side. Front wheel in a chock. I use the Condor Chock now and no need to cinch down the front wheel. Just a little pressure to keep the bike steady. Other wise cinch the front end down until snug but do not bottom out the suspension.

 
Thanks; this will be a Kendon trailer so tie down points on the trailer won't be a problem. Does anyone have FJR specific tie down points for the bike? Where, how much compression, etc.
trailered yesterday, no pics, tho used these points:

  • on 2006 (and later): the fairing vents on the l and r side give access to a frame spar. i use the webbing straps that have an ratchet on one end, and the other is open end, so i wrapped the webbing around the spar and used the high rail of the landscape trailer as an anchor point that keeps the webbing off the fairings... in your kendon instance, you might be able to use a 2 x4 cut to maybe 18 inches, at a slightly outboard cant to route the webbing over to avoid fairing rubs...
  • in the same orientation as above, you might just run the webbing straight thru, infront of the engine, over the exaust ports, tho i'm not sure it's a good idea...
  • for the rear, i had removed the bags... so i ran the webbing from side-to-side thru the hanger for the cans, over the rear tire at the 10 o'clock position if looking from the bikes left side... i would also imagine you could route the webbing over the 2 o'clock position to help create fore / aft stability...
  • no idea on 'proper compression', tho i cinched down the points until i was unable to rock / sway the bike... meaning, i did not force further ratcheting tension once the bike felt stable...

dana

 
I use the following setup:

1. Bike Pro wheel chock with a strap that compresses the front tire to the chock. This by itself is virtually enough to keep the bike upright if you hold down the rear wheel.

2. 1 soft tie to each handlebars, lightly strapped down to anchors in front of the bike. No need to make these tight at all, since the bike is being held upright by the chock/front tire strap. I put just enough tension on them so that they wiggle but wont wiggle enough to come unhooked.

3. 1 soft tie around each of the fork legs, just above the lower section (behind the protector). I cross the ties behind the fork and lightly anchor these as well to the front of the trailer...once again, leave some wiggle room...just enough to take all the slack out but they still flap around just a tad.

4. Bungee cord over the rear wheel to anchor points on each side of the tire to keep it from hoping.

Have transported the bike like this many, many miles with no issues.....will try to find pics if I still have them.

 
Twilkin, here's another trick if you're going to use non latching tiedown hooks.

Run electrical tape around the open end of the hook so it can't fall off the tiedown point if it slackens. I always do this on the non locking hooks I use. I used to use a cut up bicycle innertube but kept losing them. Electrical tape works just as good.

BTW, I use soft hooks with ratcheting tiedowns around the upper fork to pull forward, and a Canyon Dancer on the bars for side to side stability. This puts much less strain on the bars. In the rear I use another set of ratching ties to hold the rear pass peg brackets. Farthest I went was approx 370 miles one way, and the bike didn't budge an inch. I'm sure it would've stayed put if the trip was longer.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Everyone, thanks for the tips..........might I suggest this be a pinned topic when all the pictures arrive? Unless the topic of trailering the FJR is considered heresy....

I do have the dubious honor of using the most straps to hold down a bike. I used 16 (count'em 16!) to hold down my beloved XS-2 650 in the back of a pickup on a 1,700 mile trip home from picking up in upper Illinois. That baby wasn't going to move no matter what. And it did give me a good feeling when I got cut off in traffic and had to nail the brakes that I wasn't going to have 500# of bike and stuff trying to get cuddly with me in the passenger compartment.

 
Everyone, thanks for the tips..........might I suggest this be a pinned topic when all the pictures arrive? Unless the topic of trailering the FJR is considered heresy....
Try this... https://www.smthng.com/FJR1/

I had to get the Feej and a Seca II to Florida a couple years ago. The Feej went in the truck bed and the Seca II went on the trailer (I wanted the MUCH heavier FJR in the truck instead of pushing the truck). I went through a whole bunch of different attempts at getting the Feej tied down correctly and came up with that page. I've trailered the FJR using the exact same method, so it works on pretty much anything as long as you've got really strong tie down points on whatever you're using as a hauler. It may not be the best or most elegant method, but I've used it several times and have zero damage, no scratching, no leaky forks or any other problems. I'm fairly confident you could tighten the snot out of everything without causing any issues as long as you don't bottom out the front forks.

 
Top