Possible Starter Button Problem

[hppants]

Over the past 6 months, a problem has developed with my starter button. I now have to depress the button harder in order for the bike to start. I'm wondering if the spring has gotten a little weak? Has anyone ever taken the starter button apart? Tips? Suggestions?

I suppose I could give Part Shark the $60 to replace the assembly, but I'm not opposed to a penny tech fix either.

Thoughts?

 

[Fred W]

You just reminded me that I've been noticing the same thing lately. I'm betting it is like the clutch switch and just needs some contact cleaning occasionally. Haven't taken mine apart yet.

 

[Canadian FJR]

Take some pics please.

Canadian FJR

 

[Redfish Hunter]

I would not think it is the spring, I cannot imagine the spring getting stronger over time and providing more resistance.

Pop has been having the same issue for the last several months but it was so intermittent at first that neither of us was sure it was real. We are sure now.

So, do we disassemble and clean? Do we replace? What does the collective forum wisdom say?

And thanks 'pants. We need this answer as much as you do because... This in addition to a blown out fork seal that ruined the brake pads and a couple other signs of age has Dear Old Dad looking at a 2014 ES very hard. Not a need, just a want thing.

 

[PhilJet09]

I've not had the FJR starter button apart, but I've done it on other bikes. Some are more serviceable than others. If nothing else, get it apart enough to shoot some electrical contact cleaner in there and see if it helps.

 

[ionbeam]

The starter switch only draws small current so the switch should not be damaged by electrical erosion. I say clean it, but with two cautions. Caution #1, as mentioned the switch has a spring and when spring things are taken apart they tend to sproing parts to unknown or unassessable locations.(1) Caution #2, some contact cleaners eat plastic or discolor plastic so watch the over spray and drips.

(1) I have an old rug that I put under my motorcycle so that dropped tools and parts don't bounce or run off. It also makes crawling on my concrete garage floor a bit more comfortable. I would also put a towel around the starter switch area to help contain parts, just in case the springie parts sproing.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

ionbeam, you have, as usual, hit the nail squarely upon its head. The SPROINGING in conjunction with my messy and unorganized work area does not lend itself to part recovery. I have suffered miserably many times when I disassembled things that I should have turned over to a professional. The contact cleaner dissolving plastic is another major concern. Just because it does not hurt the plastic of the equipment it was designed to clean does not mean it won't dissolve FJR parts. Dad would be so pissed at me if I uglied up his bike some more.

 

[Harald]

Assuming the gen I switch is the same as my gen II, it is easily opening up and cleaned. I had the same problem and thought that wiggling the button would cause the starter to engage. But it actually turned out to be bad contacts in the starter relay (located just aft of the battery on a gen II). With no background noise, I could hear the relay click but no starter spinning. Checking for voltage drop across the main contacts confirmed that they weren't closing consistently.

 

[rushes]

*snip*Has anyone ever taken the starter button apart? Tips? Suggestions?

Not on a FJR, but a tip from working on other sproingy stuff....

Sweep the floor in a 10 ft circle before you begin working, and do your work inside of a gallon sized zip lock bag if you can.

Bright lights help.

The dollar store has cheap reading glasses. Keep an extra pair in your toolbox.

 

[bluesdog]

True electrical contact cleaners, used for high-end electronics such as stereos and musical equipment, will not damage plastic.

If you are unsure of the interaction between the cleaner and any plastic bits, spray a small amount onto a q-tip, and do a test on an accessible area of the plastic. If the test area becomes sticky, do not use that particular contact cleaner.

Do NOT use WD-40 or similar on any plastic

I use ACF-50 for contact lube and corrosion protection, after using contact cleaner.

 

[hppants]

I took my control apart and the starter button contacts were pretty oxidized. I stuck a piece of very fine sandpaper between the contacts and used the button to sqeeze them on the sandpaper. Cleaned them up real well. I put a dab of di-electric grease directly on the contacts and put everything back together. Seems to work just fine now.

We'll see how long it last.

Thanks for the inspiration on this thread.

 

[ionbeam]

... I put a dab of di-electric grease directly on the contacts and put everything back together...

Oh ouch! I don't get why everyone want to put non conductive grease on surfaces that need to conduct.

 

[Fred W]

Well, in this case the grease will help reduce the corrosion of the otherwise bare copper contacts, and should prolong the time between required cleanings. It will not actually promote any electrical conductivity (except by keeping those contacts clean) and instead it will do just the opposite and try to insulate them.

Still, with these crude sets of large contact area, and nearly unlimited contact pressure, keeping those contacts clean and corrosion free is of more importance than promoting their conductivity. I doubt it will cause much of a problem. And electrically conductive contact grease may actually result in a short circuit if just goobered in there and subjected to such a hostile environment.

 

[Constant Mesh]

My clutch switch stopped working. I removed the switch and took it apart. The stationary contacts were grimy.

I didn't have contact cleaner so I just used the tip of a pencil eraser and gave the contacts a good rubbing. They became nice and shiny.

Must be a very small current (relay coil) for that switch.

Seems to work fine now.

Thanks to Yamaha for using a switch which could be disassembled and serviced.