Power Commander Didn't Help It

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ock913

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I just purchased and installed a new Power Commander III USB (purchased from Bike Effects .... Awesome Deal) on my 05 FJR. My single reason for spending the $$ for this item was in hopes that it would resolve my only gripe about performance. My issue is that when at idle, a quick twist of the throttle results in a sort of grunting sound that I was guessing to be a lack of quick burst of fuel. I was hoping that the PC3 would resolve this issue and it didn't. I tried the Holeshot, Wally Smoothness, and the D&D maps. I also tried the Accell Pump feature and none of these solved it. I do not know enough about the PC3 to to try and adjust anything myself so I am not ready to venture there. Does anyone else have this issue? It is only with a quick twist from idle. The dealer says "oh that is normal". However, my carbarated bike doesn't do it and I would think that fuel injection would offer faster throttle response. Just looking for input on how and if I can resolve this. Ultimately I could ignore it, but if it shouldn't do it, then I want it to be right. I should add that this little grunt last about 3/4 of a second.

 
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ock,

Try to ping Liquidsilver. He seems to be very well informed with regard to the PCIII and, I believe, has written some of his own maps. He may be able to offer some insight into your problem.

 
IIRC and that would be a VERY BIG IF:

I think my dealer opens the air screws 1/4 a turn at a time, then tests. Then another 1/4 turn, etc. The 'big if' comes in at: if they are air screws and you open them 1/4 turn, you'd be LEANING the 'off throttle' response and that just doesn't sound right. If, however, they're idle FUEL screws, this may help. But, since you're smart enough to install the PCIII, you can surely get the 'whatever' screws back to where they were before I told ya how to screw 'em up. :bigeyes:

Since I'm happy with my throttle response, I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS. :)

YMMV, IMHO :cownoy:

 
The idle trim screws are indeed air bleeds. Sounds to me ock like you spent a lot of time, money, and went through a lot of frustration to try and correct a problem that isn't one-just a characteristic of the motor/induction system. Frank has this same characteristic, and it bothers me not one bit.

 
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I just purchased and installed a new Power Commander III USB (purchased from Bike Effects .... Awesome Deal) on my 05 FJR. My single reason for spending the $$ for this item was in hopes that it would resolve my only gripe about performance. My issue is that when at idle, a quick twist of the throttle results in a sort of grunting sound that I was guessing to be a lack of quick burst of fuel. I was hoping that the PC3 would resolve this issue and it didn't. I tried the Holeshot, Wally Smoothness, and the D&D maps. I also tried the Accell Pump feature and none of these solved it. I do not know enough about the PC3 to to try and adjust anything myself so I am not ready to venture there. Does anyone else have this issue? It is only with a quick twist from idle. The dealer says "oh that is normal". However, my carbarated bike doesn't do it and I would think that fuel injection would offer faster throttle response. Just looking for input on how and if I can resolve this. Ultimately I could ignore it, but if it shouldn't do it, then I want it to be right. I should add that this little grunt last about 3/4 of a second.
Sorry that the PC did not do what you wanted to do. :(

In reading your post, I was wondering if you have gotten together with other FJR riders and checked thier bike. You know, I have an R1 and although it carburetes very well, it is not as smooth as the FJR. Having said that, the FJR has dual counter balancers in the engine, which most sportbikes do not have. I can whack the throttle on the R1 and it revs quickly. Not so quick on the FJR. Larger engine with balancer shafts.

How about a good TB sync??

Check out another FJR and let me know.

Jeff

 
Have you tried the quick twist with the clutch in? With the clutch out, bike in neutral, I hear a rather pronounced clunk/grunt (clutch basket?). With the clutch in, no clunk/grunt.

 
Then something is wrong somewhere IMO.

No the big FJR motor won't spin like a liter engine which won't spin like a 600 but after installing the Power Commander when you twist the throttle it should be pretty snappy and almost downright violent.

I noticed a big big difference. I was making birds fly in the park across the street from my house and giggling like a high school boy.

-r

 
The way I read it, the problem isn't so much response, as it is the grunt when blipping the throttle from idle. A whole lot of work to try to eliminate a noise that might be irritating, but not harmful.

 
My '05 makes the same noise. To me, the noise sounds like a diesel engine, or perhaps an engine that is severely pinging. It is not an issue for me, as I do not sit at stop lights and rev. the engine like the HD boys and 18 year kids. I have heard the sound maybe twice this summer. It happens when I am making a somewhat fast start, and bog the engine too much while feeding in lots of throttle. I wonder what you are doing that makes this a big issue?

 
I wonder what you are doing that makes this a big issue?
Timbo, I sincerely appreciate your concern, but I am not doing anything that really should arouse your suspicion. Coming from a life time of dirt bikes and 2 sport like bikes, I am known to flick the throttle every now and then. In addition, the FJR is not an every street corner kinda bike and therefore draws attention from time to time. People wanna look and see what it sounds like. I would just rather not have that little grunt when blipping the throttle. I have never had it on any other bike and just wanted to remove it on this one. Really not such a big deal I guess and as Radman has said, more of an annoyance than anything else. But, I thought I would try and get rid of it. Since I self diagnosed it to a fuel delivery hesitation, I "assumed" that a PC3 may help me eliminate it. Not a totally off base assumption I don't think and a reasonable question to present to this board. I was simply looking for feedback. I want to emphasize that I am not complaining about the PC3 or my purchase. I offer my sincere thanks to Bike Effects for the great deal and the after sales support. He is a top notch guy. I am sure alot of people who have installed PC's are very pleased and I am sure that I will be too. I really haven't had a chance to get out and ride since installing it yesterday. I am in FL and we are again getting hit with hurricane weather again and I have not been able to do a good ride and try a few maps. I have only tried them in my garage. Since some seem to have this issue and others don't, I am sure there is a reason and a solution. I'll explore a few more and let you know if I make any progress.

 
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Although I did not notice any real big difference in my bike after installing the PCIII like some seem to be reporting I also did not expect it to cure the problem you are experiencing. I notice it too and have found it somewhat annoying but have found that if I simply roll on the throttle just a little bit off of idle and then blip the throttle it doesn't do it. My guess has always been that 1000 rpms which is where mine idles is just a bit low to do this. However with it in gear and taking off of the line I don't notice any problems...

 
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I just recently did my TBS only a few days ago. I just went for a ride (to order speigler front brake lines) and now the grinding/hesitation when blipping the throttle is not there. If you have not done a TBS I highly recommend doing this as your next maintenance item. The sooner the better you will definitely appreciate it...

 
I think the "problem" is caused by a mis-sync of the TB's right in the transition zone between the sync bleed screws and the throttle butterflies. You can see it on the manometer as you blip the throttle - one or two cylinders will spike their vacuum as the engine quickly revs but they're TB butterflies haven't opened yet. For a brief transition instant, the engine is significantly out of sync and it growls a bit.

A careful conventional sync with the bleed screws may help the issue and you might consider the "Unauthorized TB sync" also which adjusts the sync between butterflies.

Another idea (which I haven't tried): This problem may be sensitive to how many turns you start out on cylinder #3 with the sync bleed screws. If you achieve balance with the screws nearly closed, then idling will happen with the throttle butterflies more open; conversely, if you achieve sync with the balance screws quite open, then it will happen with the butterflies more closed. When I did my first sync, I recall nearly bottoming a bleed screw trying to get balance with #3. So I opened up #3 a a bit and then resync'd. After I finished, the growl was more pronounced. So perhaps tuning with the bleed air at a minimum setting (basically whatever is required to get sync without having any bleed air screw bottomed) might be a technique to cause the engine to idle a little more on the butterflies and make the transition between bleed and the butterflies less abrupt. This is something I'm going to fiddle with on my next tune up.

You might even be able to trail-and-error sync more to reduce the the growl rather than balance at steady state. But you might give the bike a bad buzz in steady state running.

My advice is to do a careful sync with some fiddling with the #3 starting point, and perhaps look into the "unauthorized sync". What is left over, live with it.

- Mark

 
Well I just went for a ride and using the Wally K Smoothness map, I can feel a difference in midrange power. It just feels stronger. Ride was quick and short, I am dodging the rain, but I had to take a short ride.

Back to my grunt issue ....... for those who know all the mechanical workings and technical aspects of this bike. I want to add that in gear, with the clutch in, it does not do it. A quick blip of the throttle = an instant response. No grunt, no hesitation, and no diesel type pinging sounds. But go back to neutral and do it, and it is there again. So .......... I am moving away from the fuel issue, I don't see the relationship that in gear or not would have to do with anything fuel related. But again ........ I am no service tech

 
Even in neutral, you are spinning up a bunch of metal. In gear, clutch in, less. The clutch has dampners in it, rubber blocks that absorb shock loads, located in the driven hub. Could be the source. I have noticed on other bikes I have worked on, most notably using chains for the primary drive, that a variety of unusual sounds are due to poorly synched carbs/TB's. Rattling, growling etc can be traced to this.

 
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i was always told that blipping the throttle wasn't good for the motor, made people think you wanted to own a harley, and sent cute girls looking for other guys to bed them.

 
So a well synched motor can get ya laid? Is there nothing mechanicals cannot accomplish!! :p

 
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