Sorry for the delay. It doesn't show up on the US site but it does on the UK site. I'm sure you can ask to be shipped to US and for US prices somehow. Anyhow, this is exactly what I got and it was around $50 shipped if I remember correctly, maybe a bit more or a bit less.
Link to Nitro X for FJR 1300 on ebay (UK ebay)
I'm in the US so I know you can get them shipped here.
Ok just checked Oanda for currency exchange and the USD has strengthened. At today's exchange rates you can pick one up shipped to the US for $38.
Here are my recent results in California 53-70 degrees range with the XL Calsci shield and the Yamaha top box.
Stock with side cases, top box and Calsci shield - 36MPG with the choppy throttle and good power averaging 75-80MPH measured over 110 miles.
Stock without top box but with side cases and Calsci shield - 38MPG with the choppy throttle and good power averaging 75-80MPH measures over 110 miles.
Nitro X (on full power) with side cases, top box and Calsci shield - 40MPG with SMOOTH throttle and GREAT power averaging 75-80MPH measured over 110 miles.
Nitro X (on full power) without top box but with side cases and Calsci shield - 42MPG with SMOOTH throttle and GREAT power averaging 75-80MPH measured over 110 miles.
I think what I really feel is added torque. With the Nitro X and the wife, 80-120 seemed a lot faster and powerful than stock with the wife 80-120. This was done in 3rd and 4th gear.
For $40, can't hurt to try. If it doesn't work, go out and spend $ on PC3. It only cost you $40 more to try. And you never know, you may be happy with the Nitro X. For me, it was enough.
It is adjustable too so if you wanted to save fuel you can keep the setting at the lowest (has 15 settings). I've done that and my MPG shot up to 48 once on the same stretch and test. However, I like having the throttle be responsive in case I need to get out of the way so I run it at full power all the time.
Sometimes I wonder if it is working so I remove it. Then as soon as I pull out of the driveway I can tell there is less power. It really does work.
The connectors are to metal clips that go into you your air sensor which is right below the front part of the drivers seat by the back of the tank. It is a pain to disconnect it but once you do, just cover the stock sensor, clip the clips into the wired sensor, and tape everything up so it won't move with electrical tape. If you didn't connect correctly your engine light will remain on when you fire up the bike. If you did it correctly it will turn off right after firing it up.
I also did the CO2 Barbarian Mod so that may account for my experience too. The tests above were run with the CO2 changed to the suggested +7 (I forget exactly what, you can find it here in Bin-O-Facts or somewhere.
Post up if you try it and let me know how it works for you.
Ideally some day, I'd like to try it on the same bike against a PC3 to see what the real difference is. But I probably never will get a chance.