SwitchBlind360
Member
First I wanted to thank Wicked Webby for his threads on this subject and for answering my many questions through email.
Second, I think the FJR came with plenty of Horsepower and Torque from the factory, but I really enjoy modifying and customizing (making it my own....one of a kind), and well, if the power can be made safely and inexpensively, then why not add some.
The right side of the airbox has a nice lip inside to hold the air filter in place. Once the cover (left side) is reinstalled, it forms a great seal and the filter stays securely in place. I really like this set-up because it was very simple to do, and maintains the use of the stock or stock-like K&N air filter. After 4 days of trial and error, I set CO numbers (via barbarian jump mod) to 34 across the board. If you don't cut a hole in the right side of the airbox, your #1 cylinder will run rich unless the CO number to that cylinder is reduced. It should be noted, too, that I am running GPR race mufflers with custom mid-pipes. Factory headers and catalysts are still intact.
Once I receive my K&N and throttle body synchronizer, I will be going into the Harley shop to fine tune and post my stats on their Dyno. I really like going in there with my "crappy foreign" bike and posting up numbers they would have to spend thousands to get with their bikes :yahoo:
Cost:
K&N Filter - $62.95 shipped
GPR cans - $211 shipped (but I sold my stock cans for $200)
SS Mid-pipes - $55
1.75" exhaust clamps - $19.95
Time on Dyno $100 (hopefully it only takes an hour)
Second, I think the FJR came with plenty of Horsepower and Torque from the factory, but I really enjoy modifying and customizing (making it my own....one of a kind), and well, if the power can be made safely and inexpensively, then why not add some.
The right side of the airbox has a nice lip inside to hold the air filter in place. Once the cover (left side) is reinstalled, it forms a great seal and the filter stays securely in place. I really like this set-up because it was very simple to do, and maintains the use of the stock or stock-like K&N air filter. After 4 days of trial and error, I set CO numbers (via barbarian jump mod) to 34 across the board. If you don't cut a hole in the right side of the airbox, your #1 cylinder will run rich unless the CO number to that cylinder is reduced. It should be noted, too, that I am running GPR race mufflers with custom mid-pipes. Factory headers and catalysts are still intact.
Once I receive my K&N and throttle body synchronizer, I will be going into the Harley shop to fine tune and post my stats on their Dyno. I really like going in there with my "crappy foreign" bike and posting up numbers they would have to spend thousands to get with their bikes :yahoo:
Cost:
K&N Filter - $62.95 shipped
GPR cans - $211 shipped (but I sold my stock cans for $200)
SS Mid-pipes - $55
1.75" exhaust clamps - $19.95
Time on Dyno $100 (hopefully it only takes an hour)