Problems getting the rotors off

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Well sisnce I haven't gotten out there to eff with it yet and I want to get the Loctite stuff anyway, where can I get it?

 
Weld some Allen shim stock to the bolt head.

Attach a HY7 Hoc hydraulic torque wrench and let it rip.

Guaranteed results.. :unsure:

 
Weld some Allen shim stock to the bolt head. Attach a HY7 Hoc hydraulic torque wrench and let it rip.

Guaranteed results.. :unsure:


Or I could just input a disc bolt's pattern into the Enterprise's transporter buffer and then just beem them out of the wheel!!!

 
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Lots of good advice..

The idea of an impact driver is a good one.. Heat is a likely fix too.

The method I would use to approach this would be.

1. Apply penatrine to the allen heads, reapply a few time. Leave it over night.

2. With a 3/8 or 1/2 in drive allen key type socket, ensure it a quality tool not a cheap one. Put the allen key in the allen head, give it a few taps with a small hammer to ensure it's seated, (be sure there's no dirt in the hole).

Attach the inpact driver and check that it's going to unscrew when hit rather than try to tighten..

3. With a 2 lb hammer give it a bloody good hit.

4. Check the alen key is square and good order before moving to the next one. Grind it up if nexeccary, don't grind to much or you'll heat it up and temper it (soften it).

If this doesn't work don't keep at it you'll just damage the alen key and bolt. Therefore apply heat to the wheel hub immediately around the thread.. NOT the BOLT. If applying heat, apply it quickly and go though steps 2 and 3 again. Be quick. you need to try to get that bolt moving before too much heat transferrs to the bolt.

You'll get it..

If you have a impact gun (air or electric rachet gun the job will take minutes)

Like all jobs, you need the right tools for the job. Cheap tools will often just cause more work.. Snapon are a great brand and are made in the US i believe.

 
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Well thanks for all of the advice guys. I was able to get all of the rear disc bolts out without drilling by using heat. And as a bonus I got that piston out of the bore of my BMW block with the freeze off stuff.

Now that I know the process for the rotors the fronts should be no problem.

 
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So I decided to do the smart thing and check the list before replacing the brake rotors. Everything I read sent shivers up my spine. In preparation I bought some propane and a new hex socket. Some Liquid Wrench doesn't hurt either. The day comes and my buddy talks me into trying the first bolt without heat or penetrant. I take the two foot breaker bar, make sure the hex is seated and...the bolt backs out easy-peasy. The next 11 do the same with no problems. :yahoo:

So my question is; was I just lucky? Kinda makes me wonder what all the fuss was about.

 
So I decided to do the smart thing and check the list before replacing the brake rotors. Everything I read sent shivers up my spine. In preparation I bought some propane and a new hex socket. Some Liquid Wrench doesn't hurt either. The day comes and my buddy talks me into trying the first bolt without heat or penetrant. I take the two foot breaker bar, make sure the hex is seated and...the bolt backs out easy-peasy. The next 11 do the same with no problems. :yahoo:

So my question is; was I just lucky? Kinda makes me wonder what all the fuss was about.
I too have read lots of horror stories in this thread and other places, but from my experience to date, having done my rotors at 100k+ mi and 3 other sets, it's a walk in the park if you have an impact wrench.

 
So my question is; was I just lucky? Kinda makes me wonder what all the fuss was about.
Lucky.

Mine were a PITA, even with heat and an impact driver. Well, most came off easy, but there were about 5 that gave me problems, with one REALLY giving me issues. Once that hex pattern starts to get rounded you got problems.

 
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