Putting it away for the winter

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CODan

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Here in the mountains of Colorado the riding season is just about over until next April.

My bike will stay in the garage, but that will get around 0 (yes zero or perhaps a bit less).

I plan to:

1) wash it carefully

2) drain gas

3) periodically put the battery on a low amp charger

I wondered if folks had tips for long term storage.

Thx

 
Here in the mountains of Colorado the riding season is just about over until next April.
My bike will stay in the garage, but that will get around 0 (yes zero or perhaps a bit less).

I plan to:

1) wash it carefully

2) drain gas

3) periodically put the battery on a low amp charger

I wondered if folks had tips for long term storage.

Thx

Not that im any kind of expert here in Texas.... but I would recommend that you put some Stay-bil in the gas and then run the bike.... to get the stay-bil in the filters, pump, injectors, Etc..... then drain the gas.... You don't want stale old gas stuck in the injectors..... Not sure in Colorado but we have major issues with Ethanol here in Texas... Just my .02 :)

 
Fill the tank with fresh gas and treat it with Sta-bil. Change the oil and filter and keep the battery on a tender, not a low amp charger. If possible put the bike on the centerstand with two pieces of 2x4 under the front fork tubes so no weight is on the tires. Cover and store for the winter.

 
You will find a lot of opinions about how much you should do to prepare the bike for winter storage if you search this forum. It comes up every year around this time. What I do:

1) Put a few ounces of 2-cycle fuel in with a fresh tank of gas. This just comes out of my chain saw fuel can, not straight 2 cycle oil. You can use stabil or sea foam or whatever brand you like instead of the chain saw fuel.

2) Take one final ride for the season so the oily mix can run into the fuel system and injectors and give them a coat of lubricant.

3) Change the oil. I like to store with fresh oil in the crankcase.

4) Hook up the battery tender.

5) During the winter I move the bike forward or backward a few inches about once a week so the tires don't develop a flat spot.

 
I am no expert on long term bike storage by any means...particularly here in So Cal where you can ride more of the year. However, having a boat for many years that sits for months at a time I can tell you we never store with an empty gas tank. Empty gas tank can allow condensation to form in the tank leading to rust and worse yet water in the tank/system next time you try to fire it up. I would agree, keep full tank and perhaps add a stabilizer.

 
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:rolleyes: :2handed: I guess living in the north east is like the mountains of the west. Fill the gas tank to the top and put in stabilizer before you fill it. Ride the bike for about 20 min to get all the stuff mixed and in the system. While the oil is hot, :yahoo: change it so it takes with it any water. Change the filter also. Pull the battery and put in basement on tender. Put on center stand and get front wheel off ground if on concrete floor. The lime from the concrete will leech into the rubber. This rots the tire. Make sure tire pressure is a little high for the storage period and make sure all fluids are full. Then kiss it good night and cover it for the long winter hibernation. :clapping:
 
With clean oil in it I park mine on a rug in the basement and turn the key to the off position. In the spring I push it outside and turn the key to the on position. If the battery won't start the bike after 4 months I don't want it and it gets replaced. Thats it.

 
Here in Granby CO, were it also gets cold in the winter I put a fresh tank of gas in it with Stabil, fresh oil and filter and a batter tender. I cover it with plastic bags over the exaust pipes so that the criters will not get in. Then it sits until spring when I start it up and go for my first ride. And no moving to California is not a option. I acutally like the snow and work pays me to ride a snowmobile.

 
When I lived in NY I attempted to winterize my old Shadow. Two weeks after I put her up for the winter we had a warm spell (2 or 3 days in the 50's). Out she came and then I winterized her again after my weekend fix. The following week the temps crawled up again to the high 40's. I guess what I'm saying is good luck trying to forget about riding over the winter. There is always a day or two here and there when you'll be saying "it's not that cold today"!

 
Pretty much what they said. A slightly modified Geezer list:

1) Take one final ride for the season and while out get...

2) ... a fresh tank of gas, use Stabil or whatever brand you like. A full tank prevents rust and corrosion. In addition, a full tank doesn’t let air in where it can condense water into your tank.

3) While your bike is warm from your ride change the oil and filter. Acids build up in the oil when you ride so the oil change prevents your engine parts from stewing in bad stuff over the winter.

4) Periodically trickle charge the battery or hook up a battery tender. A charged battery won't freeze and keeps it healthy. The ECU takes a small but constant current draw from the battery. If the battery is allowed to become significantly depleted while the temperature is around zero degrees (F) it can become permanently damaged.

5) During the winter move the bike forward or backward a few inches about once a week so the tires don't develop a flat spot (you are allowed to make vroom, vroom noises while you do this). Or, use the center stand and something like a jack stand for the front end to get the tires off the floor. If your tires are going to be on the ground you may want to put something between ground and the tires.

6) Depending on what your situation is, you may want to cover the exhaust pipes but more importantly, cover the air box opening to help keep the little critters out. For some reason mice seem to see air boxes as a perfect mouse house.

7) It wouldn't hurt to wax the bike to protect the finish from the condensation that happens in early spring. A cover is a good idea.

8) If you have added *straight water* to your overflow bottle have your antifreeze tested for concentration. One of those little squeezie bulb thingies with the floating beads work just fine. Most auto parts stores have these testers and they are inexpensive.

9) Do not, do not, do not, do not, do not, do not periodically start and idle your motorcycle.

10 Pray for an early and nice spring.

Zones 3 - 6 need more stringent preparations than zones 7 - 10.

zonemap320.gif


 
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I actually like the mice in my air box over the winter. The cat likes to watch them shoot out the pipes in the springtime.
I see that things are pretty slow now that your Red Sox are done for the season ;) :lol:

Sorry about your Sox, they just ran out of healthy players this year.

 
Hi,

For me, seems that "Sea Foam" works better than Stabil. In 15 years no problem with Sea Foam, but 15 years ago, Stabil resulted in "Fuel Mold" two years in a row. Fuel had black specs in it that required complete tank flush to remove.

 
Stabil shmaybil. Just some good ol' 2 stroke oil will do ya just fine. How many snowmobiles, weed whackers an other two strokers ever give ya problems after setting for extended periods?

Never done anything special with any of them when storing an they fire right up when I need them.

40's in the winter? I get out whenever I can navigate the driveway.

Gurls!!

:jester:

 
Here in the mountains of Colorado the riding season is just about over until next April.
My bike will stay in the garage, but that will get around 0 (yes zero or perhaps a bit less).

I plan to:

1) wash it carefully

2) drain gas

3) periodically put the battery on a low amp charger

I wondered if folks had tips for long term storage.

Thx
There is some good information about storage on Mark Lawrence's web site at Cal Sci, including a checklist you can print out. Check it out at the folowing link:

https://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Trailers.html#Storage

 
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