Quick audiovox cruise wiring question?

[ULEWZ]

I found every link I could find and read everything before starting, but I still have a question. the brown wire that it spliced into to power the control switch (taken from FJRCarShopGuy thread), mine is not getting any voltage with the ign on. Is this the 3 amp fuse that says "control" under the cover? Is there a better place to tap into to power the red/orange control switch?

Thanks, I am on day three.

 

[ULEWZ]

Crisis averted. Never ever use a Scotch-lock connector unless you are ok with iffy connections. At least that was my case. I cut the thin brown wire, spliced in the red wire and called it good.

I hooked the vacuum lines up to my Map sensor lead, used one vacuum check valve, and this thing pulls up hills. Way happy. Oh, don't re-engage the cruse when you let the mph bleed way down unless you are holding on with both hands. I love the people that took the time to document there cruise control installs. Made my job very easy. I also tied my cc switch mount into my ram ball U-clamp. Works great.

 

[SLK50]

We're all anxiously looking forward to your future threads about poor

performance resulting from tapping into vacuum at the MAP sensor.

 

[ULEWZ]

Not going to happen. I already ordered 4 poly check valves, and tees and am waiting for them to arrive.

 

[SLK50]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="ULEWZ" data-cid="1097825" data-time="1380598369"><p>

Not going to happen. I already ordered 4 poly check valves, and tees and am waiting for them to arrive.</p></blockquote>

Excellent!

 

[NightShine]

Not going to happen. I already ordered 4 poly check valves, and tees and am waiting for them to arrive.

Hey Ulewz. Which valves did you order (and from where)?

 

[ULEWZ]

Not going to happen. I already ordered 4 poly check valves, and tees and am waiting for them to arrive.

Hey Ulewz. Which valves did you order (and from where)?

I bought them from U.S plastics Corp. I bought the 3/16 in. Polypropylene mini check valves that Smitty recommended.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=38671&catid=956

 

[ULEWZ]

We're all anxiously looking forward to your future threads about poorperformance resulting from tapping into vacuum at the MAP sensor.

Just for giggles, what is the reason for the degradation of performance when tying into the MAP sensor line?

Bent hose that collapses over time?

A single check valve that fails?

Deteriorating servo that needs more vacuum to function?

Just incase I am too lazy to lift up the tank yet again when my check valves come.

 

[ionbeam]

MAP sensor = Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. The sensor measures the vacuum of the intake manifold and presents a varying voltage to the ECU that is proportional to the intake vacuum. The ECU uses this value as one of the 'terms' that go into calculating the Fuel Injection duration. The cruise control vacuum diaphragm movement and added volume has been proven in some cases to mess with the operation of the MAP sensor and therefore the fuel injection accuracy. There have been some people that say they tapped the MAP port with no problems but it has to have had some impact on the FI system. The vacuum in the intake manifold is a direct indicator of how hard the engine is working.

 

[ULEWZ]

MAP sensor = Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. The sensor measures the vacuum of the intake manifold and presents a varying voltage to the ECU that is proportional to the intake vacuum. The ECU uses this value as one of the 'terms' that go into calculating the Fuel Injection duration. The cruise control vacuum diaphragm movement and added volume has been proven in some cases to mess with the operation of the MAP sensor and therefore the fuel injection accuracy. There have been some people that say they tapped the MAP port with no problems but it has to have had some impact on the FI system. The vacuum in the intake manifold is a direct indicator of how hard the engine is working.

So why would it make a difference if you were taking vacuum from the intake from the four plugged ports or from the intake at the ganged port (from four locations) at the MAP sensor? Wouldn't that result in a reduction of vacuum either way?

That also doesn't explain why it will slowly deteriorate over time. If it works at first, it should continue to work unless something is breaking down. Something has to cause the reduction in vacuum.

Makes no sense to me.

 

[ULEWZ]

Everything on this install works mostly perfect. It goes up hills like a champ. Decelerates just fine, maintains speed within a few which is fine, and disengages when I hit the rear brake lever. Here is the problem. It won't disengage when I hit the front brake lever. I verified the brake light comes on when I pull in on the front lever, but the CC does not disengage at speed. I taped into the yellow wire, which explains why the rear brake lever does in fact work. So why is the front brake lever not working?

No brake light mods done.

Help!

 

[ionbeam]

If you tapped the yellow wire at the tail light or the Yellow/Green wire in the harness and the brake light comes on when you pull the front lever, the inability of the front brake to shut off the cruise should be an impossible condition. The front and rear brake levers actuate a relay, then the contact of the relay operates the brake light. Both levers work by turning the relay OFF by means of opening the circuit (turning off 12 volts). The cruise control has no way to tell if it was the front or rear brake all it sees is 12 volts YES or 12 volts NO on the Yellow wire. If the front brake doesn't shut off the cruise at speed I would be inclined to think that your front brake switch circuit doesn't work at speed.

So, I have ta ax, are you sure that the front brake doesn't shut off the cruise? Perhaps there is an issue with the travel of the brake lever before the switch opens and you aren't pulling far enough on the lever?

 

[Fred W]

There is a SPDT relay in the brake light circuit on 2nd gens. If you picked the signal for the cruise off of the brown/black wire coming from the rear brake light switch you will not see the signal from the front one. You need to wire the AVCC to the yellow/green wire output of the relay that goes off to the lamps in the rear. Probably easiest to pick that up back in the tail section near the bulbs.

Ooops, I see the professor beat me to the punch while I was reading wiring diagrams.

 

[ULEWZ]

It seems you both are right. My front brake actuates right now to slow the bike down, but the light does not come on unless pulled really hard, which isn't practical on the fwy. Is there a way to adjust the actuation point of the switch without changing the free play in the lever? I like the way the brake is right now.

 

[ionbeam]

The brake light switch is not adjustable, it is located by a pin on one end and a screw on the other; the screw goes into a round hole, not a slotted hole. You would have to make a shim to get the brake light to turn on early, but the trick would be to keep it from limiting the total travel required by the lever.

Are your levers stock? Have you had an, ahem, tip over that may have tweaked the lever?

The brake light should come on before there is any significant braking. Heck, usually if there is a little air in the hydraulic line it causes the brake light to come on way before the brakes strongly activate. It almost makes me wonder if your front brake pistons are dragging so it doesn't take as much lever travel to activate the brakes. When your front wheel is in the air, does the wheel spin freely? I guess that FJR normal would be roughly 0.75% to 125% full revolution with a strong spin.

 

[mcatrophy]

It seems you both are right. My front brake actuates right now to slow the bike down, but the light does not come on unless pulled really hard, which isn't practical on the fwy. Is there a way to adjust the actuation point of the switch without changing the free play in the lever? I like the way the brake is right now.

First up, you have a potentially dangerous situation which needs resolving whether or not it deactivates the CC. I would suggest having a good look over it to see why it doesn't activate the brake light. Adjusting the lever with the disc labeled 1-5 doesn't affect the switch operating point relative to brake activation.
On my CC install I modified my front brake switch operating point so it would disengage the CC without actually braking, I have some pIctures around here that might help.

 

[ULEWZ]

Are your levers stock?

Levers are not stock. Maybe that is the issue. I will see about shimming it up.

No tip overs for me thank goodness.

 

[Fred W]

Do you still have the stock levers?

Put them back on and see what happens.

I'm guessing the castings of the aftermarket levers do not have the same and appropriate angles and that is the cause of your brake lights not engaging correctly

 

[ULEWZ]

It seems you both are right. My front brake actuates right now to slow the bike down, but the light does not come on unless pulled really hard, which isn't practical on the fwy. Is there a way to adjust the actuation point of the switch without changing the free play in the lever? I like the way the brake is right now.

First up, you have a potentially dangerous situation which needs resolving whether or not it deactivates the CC. I would suggest having a good look over it to see why it doesn't activate the brake light. Adjusting the lever with the disc labeled 1-5 doesn't affect the switch operating point relative to brake activation.
On my CC install I modified my front brake switch operating point so it would disengage the CC without actually braking, I have some pIctures around here that might help.

Good idea. Instead of cutting my switch plunger, I think I will drill a very small hole in the lever actuation bar so the switch plunger extends further out.