Quick drain on Battery

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GreyGoose

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Replaced my OEM battery after 5 years......just because.....

Shop talked me into a trugel replacement. I don't have alot of "electrical draining" equipment on my 06, but found this battery get really weak if i happen to leave the key on for any length of time (15 minutes). I had to jump start it on the blue ridge one day (and the battery was within 6 months old) during a 30 minute rest break. As long as I remember to properly turn the bike off, it seems ready and willing to restart, but with senility creeping in , its not always the case. here i am 3 years later, same battery, same problem, but now it wont restart the bike if left on for 15 minutes. I never felt as though this battery had the oomph of the OEM. always seemed like it was cranking a bit slower during startups. I tender the battery each winter and the bike is garage kept all year round. i really thought a battery should be able to restart a bike if left on for an extended period of time (less than one hour). am i just mistaken on this thought?

has anyone had issues like this with these trugels?

Is westco from bike effects still the replacement battery of choice among forum members?

anyone else experience this type of quick drain with their relatively new batteries (which i realize mine is not)?

My OEM was really going strong when i decided to replace it. I'm surprised that this trugel has always seemed inferior.

Greygoose

 
Shop talked me into a trugel replacement. I...found this battery get really weak if i happen to leave the key on for any length of time (15 minutes)...As long as I remember to properly turn the bike off, it seems ready and willing to restart, but with senility creeping in , its not always the case...
Are you a Run/Stop button guy? Leave the key on and kill the engine with the red switch? If yes, that means the headlights are left on and that's a big current draw for any battery. Even though some MSF courses do teach using the Run/Stop button in your case (as you age) it may be better for ya to start using the key..... If you are turning the key off, then back on again -- stop doing that! My '04 would kill the battery beyond cranking in ~1.5 hrs by turning the key off, then back on again. It also strained my relationship with the pillion that did that in the middle of nowhere Vermont on a Sunday afternoon.

Anytime a battery company's material says, "It’s not “snake oil”, or marketing... TruGel batteries are the ultimate iteration of Powersports battery technology... Period!" immediately makes me think "snake oil". No facts to offer about the TruGel but your empirical evidence indicates that a mainstream battery may be a better choice.

 
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Most of us by far use an AGM (absorbed glass mat) lead acid battery in the bikes. You appear to have purchased a gel cell technology. Gel batteries are more expensive, and more suitable to deep discharge, but they do not have the high cranking power of an AGM. Gel batteries tend to lose power faster in cold temperatures. For motorcycle use, the ability to crank an engine and discharge a high amount of power, trumps having a battery that supports deep discharge (but won't restart the bike).

Do a search on Gel vs AGM, and you'll get quite a bit of information. Both batteries have their advantages, but for motorcycles, the consensus seems to be that AGM is a better choice. This comparison by Battery Wholesale seems fair:

  • AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries are deigned to hold the electrolyte in the mats so that if the battery is broken the acid does not leak out.
  • GEL batteries are filled with silica type gels that suspend the electrolyte allowing flow between mats. These batteries will also not leak if the battery is broken.
  • Both batteries are non-spillable, maintenance free, deep cycle, may be used in any position, have low self-discharge rates, safe for use in low ventilated areas, and can be transported by ground or air.
  • AGM batteries are more popular that GEL and offer a higher burst of amps. Life expectancy (cycle lifes) remains excellent in AGM as long as batteries are not discharges past 60% between recharges.
  • GEL batteries are usually more expensive and do not offer the same power capacity as the same physical size AGM. (example U1 AGM=35AH, U1 GEL=32AH). GELs do better in slow discharge rates and slightly higher ambient operating temperatures. One disadvantage to the GEL battery is the charge profile. GEL cells must be recharged properly or the battery may prematurely fail. The charger must be designed or adjustable for GEL cells since they use lower charging voltages.
 
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My 09 battery went dead a twice while fiddling with my GPS during my cross country trip in August/September. It is time for new battery.

And I changed my ways - no more kill switch. Key moved to the off position always instead.

 
And don't use the side-stand to stop the motor, just as bad as using he kill switch.

 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Funny you mentioned that....did it today at lunch. Been sitting "recovering" for 5 1/2 hours. Hope it starts. It is less than 6 months old. Fingers crossed. :)

 
Interesting and helpful information, especially comparing gel and AGM. I've got eight years on my original battery and I think it's time to get a new one. I was out of the country and after two weeks, the bike would turn over but wouldn't start. I've never gotten that many years out of any battery before, so my replacement is going to be OEM from the dealer. For the record, I never leave the key on with bike not running. There's nothing good that can come from it.

 
I just ordered a new AGM battery yesterday, and got one I never imagined I would buy. My bike has been very sensitive to having any electrical left on recently, and it was getting obvious that the battery will not last long. I was pushing it by not replacing before the EOM.

I bought a Chrome Batteries AGM for $36. I had been holding out to buy the YUASA, but at $95, it wasn't in the budget just now. The specs on the Chrome are good, and I figure to get a couple years out of it.

 
Current draw on the FJR is approximately as follows.

Key On Engine Off ... Approx 3.5 Amps

Lights On Engine Off ... Approx 7.5 Amps.

On a 12 AmpHour battery it doesn't take long ....

 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Funny you mentioned that....did it today at lunch. Been sitting "recovering" for 5 1/2 hours. Hope it starts. It is less than 6 months old. Fingers crossed.
smile.png
Quoting myself....how embarrassing!

Anyway, bike cranked...slowly...and I needed gas, too, so was worried a ride to the station on the way home and stopping for gas would kill the battery before it had got enough charge back, so I drove the 2 miles to the station and never shifted up from 2nd....4 to 5k rpm the whole way...to get the max juice out of the stator back into the battery. Got my gas and he cranked right up. Nice, normal, fast spin. Gonna plug in the 'tender for the weekend to make up for the dumbshit act of killing the bike with the kickstand and forgetting to pull the key.

 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Funny you mentioned that....did it today at lunch. Been sitting "recovering" for 5 1/2 hours. Hope it starts. It is less than 6 months old. Fingers crossed.
smile.png
Quoting myself....how embarrassing!

Anyway, bike cranked...slowly...and I needed gas, too, so was worried a ride to the station on the way home and stopping for gas would kill the battery before it had got enough charge back, so I drove the 2 miles to the station and never shifted up from 2nd....4 to 5k rpm the whole way...to get the max juice out of the stator back into the battery. Got my gas and he cranked right up. Nice, normal, fast spin. Gonna plug in the 'tender for the weekend to make up for the dumbshit act of killing the bike with the kickstand and forgetting to pull the key.
This almost always works, especially if the bike is generally in decent shape.

When the battery discharges, not only is its reserve power diminished, the voltage drops considerably too.

Even running it for five minutes has two main effects .... While it doesn't put much in the battery in terms of reserve capacity, it does bump the actual voltage way up, usually to over 13V.

Additionally, you are now starting a hot engine, which is normally easier. You wouldn't have much cranking time, but you shouldn't need it and the 13V will ensure fast cranking.

 
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