Radiator Removal

[MotorSWATCop]

My new exhaust system is supposed to arrive tomorrow. In preparation, I have removed the fairings and OEM cans. I am at the point where I can drop the existing pipes and catalyzer. The headers connect to the exhaust manifold way up behind the radiator. I might be able to get my meathooks up there to work but would it be better to remove the radiator? I do not want to damage anything. My FJR is an '06 (A). I am not a super wrench so any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Warchild]

While it might be an ass-pain, it's likely to be safer for the rear of the radiator fins if you go ahead and remove it.

Unless you can detach the one end and swing it out of the way...? Haven't looked to see if this is do-able on the FJR; it can be done on a number of bikes. Worth a look.... but if not, I'd tend to be safe than sorry, and just bite the bullet and remove it. It's a good excuse to flush/refill your coolant anyway...

 

[MotorSWATCop]

I have removed the botom stay and it will give me a little more room. It's actually the fans that are in the way and they are attached to the radiator. I'm going to go get a flexible extension and see if that will let me get this done. I already looked at the radiator "Blow Job" in the event that I have t do this. I only have 4500 on the bike so i know it doesn't need it yet. thanks for the reply; search did not reveal the answer.

 

[radman]

I installed mine with the radiator in place. Remove the lower bolt, loosen the top two and it will pivot quite a bit, at least enough to work in there. I used a long extension and a u-joint on the 3/8 drive, and a regular allen wrench (on the center bolts IIRC, been a while), but very do-able. I also took advantage of the exhaust removal to do all the rear suspension maintenance, as well as pulling the centerstand and reversing the bolts for future ease of working in there. Also, go ahead and drain the rad, you can then disconnect the hoses which will give you a lot more travel in the radiator pivoting, as well as keeping the system clean with fresh coolant, easily done and a real plus for system longevity and performance.

Edit-I did this on an 05, I see you have a 6, so your experience may vary........

Edit 2-Slip some cardboard up behind the rad, prevents fin damage as well as cuts on the back of the hand.

 

[MotorSWATCop]

OK. Going to try Rad's. The flexible extension is no joy. Grrrrrrr....

 

[Fencer]

If you need some tools call me. I can bring the cutting torch .

Seriously, if you need a third hand give me a buz.

 

[MotorSWATCop]

Thanks all; it's down. Just like SWAT, slow is smooth and smooth is fast! Now I have to disconnect what I assume is the O2 sensor and it will be completely out. I was able to manipulate the flex extension and Rad's radiator pivot and make it work.

 

[V GER]

I'm really looking forward to the pictures.

 

[black mamba]

Radman...

What product, or mix, are you using when you refill the radiator?

 

[odot]

Just remember....if you take the radiator off....it's a bitch getting it back on. There you may need some australian with a funny accent to help you out. "aye k".

 

[jestal]

While you have the exhaust off remember to turn the bolt in the center stand pivot on the right hand side around. If you look at it you will notice it is impossible to remove the bolt with the exhaust system in place (without being terribly medieval prying on the exhuast) so now is the time to take it out and turn it around as RAD mentioned.

Radman...
What product, or mix, are you using when you refill the radiator?

uh..oh... I feel another coolant NEPR thread coming on.....

 

[black mamba]

Not really. I just wondered what Radman used. I happen to feel he's pretty knowledgeable, as are you, and I am curious. Didn't mean to give you heartburn.

 

[radman]

After trying Engine Ice, and another blend of glycol and Water Wetter, I'm back to good ol' Havoline Green and distilled water. Fancy shit-no perceptive improvement in anything but some gain in acceleration due to the wallet diet plan......

 

[MotorSWATCop]

Will do on the center stand pivot bolt. We'll see if UPS delivers. I have to go to my mother-in-law's tomorrow afternoon. Would like to ride there.

 

[MotorSWATCop]

Here's another question.

Will the Muzzy 4-2-1 still utilize the probe that went into the OEM header? I lost a little skin getting that bugger loose! If it doesn't use it do I just snip it off?

 

[T120TT]

Here's another question.
Will the Muzzy 4-2-1 still utilize the probe that went into the OEM header? I lost a little skin getting that bugger loose! If it doesn't use it do I just snip it off?

Yes. That's why it has the provision for it {duh}. If using a PC3, no, in which case just unplug it. No need to cut it as you may want to lose the PC3 at some point.

 

[T120TT]

My new exhaust system is supposed to arrive tomorrow. In preparation, I have removed the fairings and OEM cans. I am at the point where I can drop the existing pipes and catalyzer. The headers connect to the exhaust manifold way up behind the radiator. I might be able to get my meathooks up there to work but would it be better to remove the radiator? I do not want to damage anything. My FJR is an '06 (A). I am not a super wrench so any suggestions would be appreciated.

Although it can be done without disturbing the radiator at all using the right tools and mucho patience, it's easiest to disconnect the hose, dump the coolant {or catch it for reuse} and swing the radiator forward a bit from the bottom. Total removal of the rad is unnecessary. You don't need to loosen the top mounting bolts as the bolts go through a rubber mount that allows just enough movement without damaging anything.

 

[radman]

You don't need to loosen the top mounting bolts as the bolts go through a rubber mount that allows just enough movement without damaging anything.

I respectfully disagree. The horn brackets (on the 5 anyway) are also on those bolts, with them loosened, you gain that smidgen more movement that simplifies the removal/install. They're easy to get at (assuming the plastic is off), so it's not a tough job to back them off, so that the horn brackets don't limit the pivot.

 

[yamahlr]

When I installed the DW header, I just loosened the rad bolts, and cut a piece of cardboard to over the back of the rad in the fin area to keep from damaging it.