Rear Sub Frame Crack

[keithaba]

With 22 days left until my long awaited motorcycle trip to South Carolina, my little "incident" has been threatening my trip. I was able to afford to fix everything but have not yet purchased a rear sub-frame. There are 2 cracks in the rear sub-frame, indicated by the green lines. The one on the right is completely cracked, the left a small crack. They are both at weld joints.

From what I understand, the location of the cracks should not impact the support of seats. I don't beleive riding with these cracks would cause a problem, unless I put the trunk on. Then it might crack the rear cowling. Does that sound correct, or do those who are more technically inclined think riding with those cracks causes a safety risk?

If I try to replace the rear sub frame myself, how much of a PITA am I in for? I looked at the wiring diagrams and it looks like a lot of wires run over, under, and through the rear subframe.

 

[Ignacio]

I concur that it's not going to affect anything unless you put a rear case on or a passenger that likes to push on the rear rack.

Haven't replaced the frame, but it looks like a serious bitch. I've cracked mine in two spots because of a custom rear case and going to try and have it welded (and maybe add some gusseting) in the next month or two.

 

[teerex51]

If I try to replace the rear sub frame myself, how much of a PITA am I in for? I looked at the wiring diagrams and it looks like a lot of wires run over, under, and through the rear subframe.

Keithaba,

I can't answer your first questions without taking a first-hand look at the problem. (And maybe I wouldn't have an answer for you anyway... :huh: )

What I can tell you for sure is that removing the rear subframe is not that much of a hassle. BTDT and it looks far worse than it really is...

Stef

 

[keithaba]

Keithaba,

What I can tell you for sure is that removing the rear subframe is not that much of a hassle. BTDT and it looks far worse than it really is...

Stef

Well I'm glad to hear that. I will have it looked at, but by the time I have it welded and try to straighten it back... I have no idea how much that will cost, but the new part costs $480 and I'm guessing at least $200 to weld and massage it back. For the difference it will probably be worth it to just replace it.

 

[Ignacio]

$200 to weld? I'm looking at less than $100 and like the idea of a beefed up frame. Glad to hear it's easier than it looks on the subframe replacement.

 

[Mike-H]

$200 to weld? I'm looking at less than $100 and like the idea of a beefed up frame. Glad to hear it's easier than it looks on the subframe replacement.

Matt I would think is closer to the truth.....1-2 rods depending on the width of the cracks (which determine the size of the material to be used).....then 10-20 mins to weld....just my 2 cents (CWB certified)

 

[TruWrecks]

Get it welded. A good shop can weld and true it pretty quickly. Should cost you less than $100, and it'll be just as much hassle as replacing it. You'll have a few dollars left to farkle with.

 

[mech 1 twa]

Mine also cracked, but at a different spot.

Left side above the mounting bolt for rack. The horizontal bolt.

This was not at a weld, clean break. Not at bolt hole, above it.

I had a Sampson rack and was hauling a lot. Had a large pack there. Since removed it and mounted a top case.

I suspect there's a few more bikes with the same problems.

Recomend everyone pull seats and have a good look under there.

I was adding some lights and found the crack. Didn't really know how long it was broken, just lucky I found it.

05 FJR Don't load up top cases or you could have same problem.

FYI................

 

[Alex]

I would suggest just taking off the plastic rear fairing, disconnect the clips that hold the wiring in place around that area before welding. A good welder will be able to add strength with some filler rod, making it better than new. I would carefully use some paint remover and clean up the area that needs to be welded, just to make it easier on the guy doing the welding.

 

[IndianaTom]

Not nowing too much about welding, does it need to be MIG, TIG or some other welding process?

 

[garauld]

Assuming it's aluminum, I would TIG it. If I were to do it, I would require it to be off the bike so there's no chance of burning/blowing it up. Some reinforcement should be added too as you are annealing (softening) the adjacent metal.

 

[IndianaTom]

Assuming it's aluminum, I would TIG it. If I were to do it, I would require it to be off the bike so there's no chance of burning/blowing it up. Some reinforcement should be added too as you are annealing (softening) the adjacent metal.

Aluminum? crap. I work in the design department at a shipyard (steel), and was gonna look for someone that does some welding on the side for Kieth, if that's aluminum, that will shurley narrow down the number of people I can propery accost. <_<

 

[hoham]

Different bike but similar situation. My neighbor had the frame crack because he tied the bike down tight with the side stand down. It caused a crack in the frame. Bike was out of warranty, but Suzuki replaced the frame, no charge. Manufactuers take frame problems very seriously. Contact Yamaha, this should not have happened. They make a trunk for the bike and expect it to be loaded up, without causing your condition.

 

[FJRMGM]

ummm Hoham, this bike was involved in a serious "get off" and was broken in the accident.

It didn't just break on it's own.