Rear wheel bearing

[Luis]

Hi all,

For a while I have been feeling this click coming from under the saddle area. I feel it on the foot pegs mainly. I though it was the side stand that was loose and would vibrate with the bumps... but no, all good there. Then I though it was the center stand, no. Thought it may be the bearings of the swing arm or any other bearings at the rear shock area...

Today I was changing both front and rear tyres and I have noticed that one of the rear tyre bearings, the one at the far right, pn 93306-30446-00, number 2 on the rear wheel schematic) was grinding and not rotating very smoothly. I suppose that with 60,000 mi it may be time for a change (even though I understand it is not a common failure)... In any case, question: does the oil seal and circlip need to be replaced too (#4 and 3 on the schematic)? The service manual does not call for it but what is the recommendation from the forum on this?

Thanks for your opinion

Luis

 

[metalman]

Usually good practice to change the oil seal. The circlip is probably robust enough to reuse unless it gets damaged on removal.

 

[RossKean]

Given the age of your wheel, I think I would replace the oil seals as metalman suggests. Circlip is OK if not physically damaged. I would probably replace all three bearings while I had it apart. Are you going with OEM bearings or aftermarket from a bearing shop? (Does anyone know the part designation for aftermarket??)

I have done the bearings on my front wheel (a year ago) but not the back. Given the fact that my bike is high mileage, I think I had better have a really close look next time I have the wheel off for a tire change. Thanks for the reminder!

 

[puppychow]

What is the replacement guidelines for wheel bearings for the FJR?

90K on the clock on mine. Didnt notice anything odd last rear tire change, about 500 miles ago.

 

[RossKean]

What is the replacement guidelines for wheel bearings for the FJR?90K on the clock on mine. Didnt notice anything odd last rear tire change, about 500 miles ago.

I don't think there are "guidelines" as such. My front bearings were noticeably notchy at 130,000 miles.

Currently have 167,000 miles and (based upon the above post) I will have a careful look at them next time I have the rear wheel off.

I probably won't change them until there is evidence of a problem but they are a bit of a concern.

 

[HotRodZilla]

70k on my bike, and the rear wheel seems fine. Any idea if something happened to help yours fail? I've heard of a couple going out, but it seems more the exception than the rule.

 

[Donal]

If you are planning to do this job yourself then it makes perfect sense to replace ALL the bearings and seals, circlips are optional (it might make sense to order them at the same time and have them on hand, just in case).

You have already saved yourself the big bucks by doing the work yourself...........

 

[Luis]

No kit for a 2003 for the rear wheel, only for the front can be found anywhere. Two of them can be purchased at all balls racing 6304 2R2 and 6204. The third one must be an OEM yamaha pearl. Seals and stuff... yamaha I guess. I'll get my parts ordered today. Not sure what happened. Lack of maintenance on my part I guess...

 

[Auburn]

What is the replacement guidelines for wheel bearings for the FJR?90K on the clock on mine. Didnt notice anything odd last rear tire change, about 500 miles ago.

I don't think there are "guidelines" as such. My front bearings were noticeably notchy at 130,000 miles.

Currently have 167,000 miles and (based upon the above post) I will have a careful look at them next time I have the rear wheel off.

I probably won't change them until there is evidence of a problem but they are a bit of a concern.

"noticeably notchy" is a early sign that the bearing is failing. How long until they will last is anybody's guess. "noticeably notchy" can occur without feeling any wobble in the wheel. Once you know that, you are living on borrowed time until they fail, which of course will be the most inopportune time. Wheel bearings should always turn smoothly when you rotate then with your finger. I keep a couple of bearings around to use as show and tell during the tech days. One is failed, easy to tell, one is notchy not so easy to tell, and then I compare them to a new bearing so people know what to look for. The notchy bearing did not have any play in it that you could notice by wiggling the wheel while on (in this case my Bushtec trailer), but you can clearly see the grit that got into the bearing.

Yes it is a good idea to replace the dust seals at the same time. Take a look at your seals when you have the wheel off. If it is crushed or deformed in any way, that may be your culprit for the bearing failure, because it can allow dirt and grit into the bearing area.

 

[RossKean]

I changed the front bearings as soon as I noticed the notchy feel. I certainly didn't want to take any chances.

 

[08FJR4ME]

I have never been able to spin my front bearings by hand since day one. Not sure what that means but if it aint broke "YET" don't fix it. I don't notice any issues other than that. 91K on the bike at this time.

Just sayin,

Dave

 

[Canadian FJR]

"I have never been able to spin my front bearings by hand since day one"

Likely the dust seals rubbing against the bearing, not necessarily a bad thing.

Same as Ross, I have replaced the front but never the rear.

I am coming up on 260,000 km but switch between two front rims and two rear. I also

have a complete set of front and rear bearing kits sitting on the shelf just in case.

Canadian FJR

 

[Fred W]

There have been some stories of short lifespan from "All Balls" wheel bearings in the past. If IU were going through the exercize I'd just eithr source them all from Yamaha or a quality bearing source (like Timken, etc) if you have the full specs. Being lazy it would probabl;y be pay a few bux to Mamma and know they will last.

Many owners never have to replace their wheel bearing over very long miles and years, much longer than yours and mine. Take a close look at your work practices that may be contaminating the bearings past the seals. Do not spray high pressure water at bearings. Do not blow dry your bike with a leaf blower near those bearings. Things like that can allow H2O into what should only be grease and wreak havoc.

 

[Spud]

Since we're throwing out some empirical data points, 85K on my bike I've owned since new and bearings are fine. Agree that keeping a pressure washer away is a good idea, those things are bad news around seals. Hopefully one of those parts that will outlive the motor

 

[Auburn]

There have been some stories of short lifespan from "All Balls" wheel bearings in the past. If IU were going through the exercize I'd just eithr source them all from Yamaha or a quality bearing source (like Timken, etc) if you have the full specs. Being lazy it would probabl;y be pay a few bux to Mamma and know they will last.
Many owners never have to replace their wheel bearing over very long miles and years, much longer than yours and mine. Take a close look at your work practices that may be contaminating the bearings past the seals. Do not spray high pressure water at bearings. Do not blow dry your bike with a leaf blower near those bearings. Things like that can allow H2O into what should only be grease and wreak havoc.

Another thing I do when changing tires, clean out the old grease in the dust seals. I replace with a waterproof grease like Silkolene Pro 2 or a marine grade grease to lube the axle, and put a generous coating in the seals to aid keeping water and grit out.

 

[Biquer]

84,000 miles here, nice and smooth.

 

[OldernYZer]

"By the book", circlips are a one use item that should be replaced whenever they've been removed. In practice, a lot of pros including myself will reuse them if they show no signs of wear, twisting, out of roundness, etc., and they seat correctly.

If the bearing was noisy or rough, it was also shedding debris, which will have gotten into the shared lube supply in the hub. You can fill in the rest of the blanks yourself easily enough, and it's your call based on what you find, but replacing the set, seals and all is the ideal answer. Again, I won't always do that. Just depends.

 

[Mr. BR]

65K on my '05 and, as far as I know, original wheel bearings. I usually just grease them at each tire change.

The last time I made sure to check the middle bearing in the rear wheel which is behind the cush-drive... I may have forgotten it before.... oops!

It looks great anyway but I was glad to get some fresh lube on it.

Mr. BR

 

[Luis]

Thanks all for your replies! I am setting up to follow your recommendations. I think I vaguely remember power washing this bike in her early years. This and living in the streets of Dublin (no garage those days) for 5 years... I'll report my findings... I think I should also do all my pivot points including swing arm, rely arm and the likes while I am at it...

Luis