rebound damping issue - uneven clicks

[becoyote]

Picked up a used 07 about a month ago. I didn't really mess with the suspension settings because I knew I was going to rebuild the forks with straight rate springs and get an aftermarket shock.

Finished that today and and am having a problem with the rebound damping on the forks.

The left fork has about 24 possible clicks, and the right fork has about 39 clicks. Not sure if this was the case before I pulled them apart or if it is something I introduced. Is there a set range here or do you just always start from closed and count the clicks out?

Both adjusters dialed all the way out have 5mm of space between them and the cap bolt. All the way closed they both have 3mm of space between them and the cap bolt.

Is this normal? If not, what is the likely cause?

 

[MCRIDER007]

The likely cause is that the two (internal) damping rods are not screwed into their respective caps the same distance. You normally adjust by screwing the adjusting screws all the way in (closed position) and counting the clicks out.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Correct. The damping is the amount the screws (thus the damping 'valve') is away from fully seated.

 

[becoyote]

How many clicks is normal?

If I adjust the same clicks out on each leg is it the same amount of damping or do I need to open the forks again?

 

[MCRIDER007]

How many clicks is normal?
If I adjust the same clicks out on each leg is it the same amount of damping or do I need to open the forks again?

Your problem is with the fork with 39 clicks, if the needle is fully seated with 39 clicks then you can just count clicks out. If the 39 clicks isn't fully closing the needle, then the damping will not be the same on each fork....which isn't that big of deal, your damping will be the average of the 2 forks.

You should be able to correct the discrepancy without removing the fork from the bike, just unscrew the cap, loosen the locknut, screw the damper rod all the way into the cap and re-tighten the lock nut.

 

[becoyote]

Thanks! I was hoping I could do it that way.

Got a new ohlins on the back and the correct springs up front now. Can't wait to finish sorting this and get it dialed in!

 

[becoyote]

No Joy,

Opened it up and it was on as far down as possible.

Opened up the the other side to verify the caps were screwed down the same distance. They were. Both caps have a 50 click range when not installed and seem to be working okay.

Damping rods etc. extend the same distance out of the forks.

Compression adjusters seem to be working correctly.

Swapped the caps to the opposite fork legs and the problem stayed on the right side.

Ug, any ideas?

 

[MCRIDER007]

Were the adjusting rods (the small solid rod that fits inside the damping rod) the same length? Are they sticking above the damping rods the same distance? If you gently push on the adjusting rods, do they spring back?

If the caps are the same and the adjusting rods are the same length the only other thing I can thing of is that somehow the tapered needles inside the damping piston are different. GP Suspension redesigned those needles in their fork kits to have more clicks of adjustment. As long as the needles are not stuck (they spring back) you should just go fully closed as a starting point and not worry about it.

 

[becoyote]

I didn't pull out the adjusting rods and measure them but I did throw a ruler next to each to see they were sticking above the damping rods the same distance.

The damping rods are both sticking out of the tubes the same distance and yes if I push down on the adjusting rods they spring back. I took it for a ride yesterday after I put it back together and everything felt normal other than it was a little harsh and I wanted to back of the compression damping a bit.

I did have the forks completely apart and did new bushings too so I had the cartridges out. If they weren't sitting correctly I would see a difference at the top though, right?

 

[MCRIDER007]

It sounds like you have confirmed everything is the same except for the tapered needles. If the needles spring back they are not stuck and if the caps have 50 clicks of adjustment and you are only using 39 then the needles should be fully closed with 39 clicks. I suppose that if you wanted the rebound in each fork to be exactly the same then you could use a 1.5:1 ratio on the clicks but it really isn't necessary, in the end you will get an average of the settings. Hard to believe after we have been told for years that each fork needs to have the same clicks but the average works on the GEN3 A models with all the damping in one fork and the many other forks, including the ES models, that have rebound damping in one fork and compression damping in the other.

 

[becoyote]

Thanks,

I think you are right and I am just going to close them up for now. If it rides well I will call it good and pull them apart next winter to change the fluid and see if I can track down the issue.

 

[900gc]

If the forks dial in OK and feel good, repeat to yourself over and over; "it's all in me head, it's all in me head" and forget about the disparity. Ride and enjoy. I need this therapy too as these kind of things also bug me.

 

[Fred W]

I don't think it matters at all what the click range for the adjuster is. If you just count the clicks out from lightly seated the two needles will be raised from their seats an identical amount and the damping will be equal.

Not that equality is all that important either. As is demonstrated by all the various bikes (including 3rd Gen FJRs) that have all the damping in one fork leg or have the adjustments for compression in one side and rebound in the other. The two fork legs work together as a pair (they can't do otherwise) so as long as the total damping is achieved it doesn't really matter if it is equally divided in the two fork legs.