Recommended wire gauge and fuse size etc for various farkles

[skyway]

I'm trying to compile a list of wire sizes and fuse sizes, relays etc required for my various farkles? If you guys don't mind helping me out here, I'll list what I have and will update the top of the thread with the relevant info. If there are any other farkles that you would like to see info on, I'll add them to the top of the thread as well.

Electrical, huh? :blink:

Magnum Blaster Horns - 12-gauge wire - 10 amp fuse - 25amp 12v DC relay,

Aux. HID Lights - - 20 amp single fuse inline for both lights, 10 or 15amp fuse per light, (optional) Heavy Duty SPDT switch

Aux. 50 watt each halogen Aux. lights -

15 amp fuse Aux. Power outlet -

Radar Detector -

Datel Volt meter - 14gauge

Heated Clothing -

Audiovox CC -

Autocom (Intercom) -

GPS - 20 gauge

Littlite -

Battery Tender -

12v charger for cell phone etc -

Mix-it -

Tankbag - 14 gauge

+/- wires to battery for Blue Sea, Centech, barrier strip etc -

Recommended size relay for switched power - 30 amp 12vdc relay with ? size fuse

Recommended types of wire for various applications - Shielded, Hi-temp, Etc

Methods for labeling wire -

Recommended connectors - I'm going with the Posi-lock type throughout

Types of wire protection - heat shrink tubing, helical bundle wrap,

 

[Ignacio]

Since I don't have dedicated circuits to many of the individual farkles and run many through 2 barrier strip I'll add what I have if it helps.

GPS on it's own 20 or sub-20 gauge wire from the battery with it's small fuse

Barrier strip #1, 12 gauge, 30 amp

Datel - Through barrier strip #1 with a 14 gauge wire

Tank bag - Radar detector, Phone, Starcom, CB - 14 gauge

Horn - 12 gauge, extra 20 amp fuse

Barrier strip #2, 12 gauge, 30 amp

Heated clothing - 12 gauge (long run through heat troller on handlebars to Powerlet)

HID FF200 - 12 gauge with dedicated 25 amp fuse

The two barrier strips and GPS are crimped into a two yellow ring terminals. One for positive, one for negative. I used to have three different ring terminals, but it looked like crap.

Almost all of my connections are crimp connectors where I also heat shrink an inch or so. Connector types are female push-on to relays, spade to barrier strips, and ring connectors to the battery.

I have three circuit runs near the engine and radiator....and I tried to find high-temp wire locally, but couldn't. I used the asphalt loom to add some protection. After 45,000 miles with normal wire though the vinyl still looks good. Other I used plastic loom.

Wiring all this mess....I haven't found the perfect answer yet, but have been adding labels with a three piece data model into the barrier strips. RlyPosWid = Relay Positive Widder. PosRly2 = Battery positive to the barrier strip relay #2. ....we'll see if it works.

This image of barrier strip #2 covers a fair amount of the parts and ideas I use. More to follow at this website as I bring the bike back from surgery.

 

[skyway]

Thanks Matt. I also have several things wired together on a single circuit. Your input allows me to make some sense of what size wire is required without getting any burning smells and smoke. :huh: I'm removing all of my crimped connections (no failures to date) and replacing them with Posi-lock's. I figure at least this way any roadside repairs or removal of wire that may arrise will require less tools and frustration.

My other goal in this re-wire endeavor is to place all connections (where possible) and fuses in an easy to reach/see place. I hate wiring, but will put up with it for my farkles.

 

[Ignacio]

I've never been a fan of electrical wiring. Warchild's years of professional experience carrying over to his FJRTech.com has convinced me to put more attention into it for sure. I just dislike it greatly now.....not loathe it like dental work.

And, I might not be the authority on gauges. Hopefully if I've erred....it's on the conservative side. No smoke smells so far....just a couple of sparks along the way installing things.

I have a bunch of Posi-locks too....and do pack them for the road. They work in a pinch, BUT I'm finding that a GOOD set of high-leverage crimpers (Beeroux showed me the light at Home Depot Klein D213-9NECR or equivalent), set of strippers (Klein 11055 for about $20 to $25), and a heat gun (about $10 from Harbor Freight) make a HUGE difference in adding confidence to this kind of wiring job.

Close-up of the business part of the crimpers. Two crimp spots are better than one.

 

[Badcat]

Any type of connection that might get damp, I solder the connection where the wire meets the spade or connector. Even a small amount of corrosion can raise the resistance causing more power draw. Also, where metal meets metal in a connector gets some protective goop to prevent corrosion. I live in the desert and I still do this and have never had an electrical problem from one of my farkle wire ups. In my experience this is almost as important as the right gauge of wire. Electrical tape does little to protect a connection.

 

[v65]

I have been using ancor marine grade terminals and am very happy with them. They are a double crimp terminal, so that they crimp onto the wire and the insulation, making for a very sturdy crimp. I am also using the versatile tool-aid wire crimper pointed out on the forum.

 

[Go Far]

I found these at the local auto parts store.

Noble Wire & Terrminal 'Crimpable Connectors and Terminals with Sealant Shrink'

I use Klein crimpers and then a heat gun to shrink the tube. A little of the sealant oozes out. Then regular black heat shrink tube slips easily over the top to clean up the look. These appear to add obvious mechanical structure to the crimp connection and prevent the wire flexing near the area crimped. Structure that appears to be lacking in the standard crimps with plastic housings.

At $1.20 each, I need to find another source. :dribble: :blink:

Or, just use them in limited areas <_<