Rekey Panniers

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leclairk

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Location
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When I bought my bike it came with 2 keys, one for the ignition and one for the panniers. I prefer to only have 1 key so I set out to fix that. Called a locksmith who quoted me $50 to do it and he wasn't even sure he could. After doing some poking around on the forum I decided to do it myself. Couldn't find a step by step instruction thread so thought I would start one. Start by removing the latch from the back of the lock cylinder so it can slide out of the pannier. The latch is held on by 2 tamper resistant torque screws.

Once the latch is removed, remove the lock cylinder

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This picture shows the cylinder with the key out.

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This picture shows the cylinder with the pannier key in it, notice the smooth cylinder.

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This picture shows the cylinder with the ignition key in it. Notice the metal parts protruding up from the cylinder. There are 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom that is hard to see. Of course your key may have more or less parts sticking up.

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The only thing left to do is use a metal file and file those protrusions down. Each protruding piece is spring loaded so I would rest the cylinder on a small flathead screwdriver to keep the piece sticking up so I could file it down. Took about 5 or 10 minutes per lock. Hope this helps.

 
Nice! And the side bags lock with the ignition key now? That's awesome! I'm in the same boat - I may have to give this a shot!

Maybe it'll make more sense when I get in there and try it, but what do you mean when you said you "would rest the cylinder on a small flathead screwdriver"?

Thanks for the post!

 
In order to keep the metal protruding out from the cylinder you have to push it up from the opposite side. Each metal protrusion is spring loaded so when you go to file it, it will sink back into the cylinder if you don't apply pressure on the other side. It will make sense once you pull out the cylinder. And yes, one key for both ignition and panniers.

 
Nice how to!

The reason that your bike came to you with two keys is probably that when the dealership did the 2nd gen Ignition switch recall (for the prior owner, I assume) they did not read the directions in the recall instructions (or were too lazy to follow them) that told them to swap over the old lock cylinder so that you could retain single key operation.

PS - I think 'Zilla is right. If you just stick a copy of the key you want to use in the lock cylinder while filing, it should hold the tumblers in the position you need.

 
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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="HotRodZilla" data-cid="1143090" data-time="1398493274"><p>

Don't you just leave the key in while you file? That's what I would have done to ensure I didn't take off too much.</p></blockquote>

Tried that. The metal piece will still withdraw back into the cyclinder.

 
Ahhhhh...I didn't know that. So, you have to use a small screwdriver to hold each tab up to file them? Makes sense if the key doesn't hold the tabs up.

Good write up BTW...I wasn't complaining.

 
Fred has the most likely explanation of how the double key syndrome happened.

FWIW, the FJR key only needs one side to work, notice that the tumblers only protrude from one side. You can have a blank key cut with one key pattern on one edge and the other key pattern on the other edge. Key inserts one direction for ignition and then rotate 180º for the bags. A bit of creative work on the head to provide orientation and you are good to go with one key.

 
Instead of filing, you may be able to swap around two or more of the "wafers" in the cylinder. I watched a locksmith do this (wafers came out easily although I don't remember exactly how). I think he ended out filing only one.

 
Fred has the most likely explanation of how the double key syndrome happened.
FWIW, the FJR key only needs one side to work, notice that the tumblers only protrude from one side. You can have a blank key cut with one key pattern on one edge and the other key pattern on the other edge. Key inserts one direction for ignition and then rotate 180º for the bags. A bit of creative work on the head to provide orientation and you are good to go with one key.
And that right there is why we call him The Perfesser!
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Instead of filing, you may be able to swap around two or more of the "wafers" in the cylinder. I watched a locksmith do this (wafers came out easily although I don't remember exactly how). I think he ended out filing only one.
Yes, this! ^ ^ ^

Those little wafers, or tumblers, whatever... only come in about a handful of different depths from what I can tell. So you may be able to grab some that get pulled too deep onto the cylinder and swap them with some that stick up. If you had an unlimited supply of those things it would be easy to swap around the wafers until they were all perfect.

 
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Each wafer is exactly the length of the cylinder's diameter. It has a rectangular hole in the middle that the key goes through. This hole is offset one way or the other from center. If the wafer is the right one for that "step" on the key, it will end out flush on both sides of the cylinder when you turn the key to engage them. If it isn't right, it will end out recessed on one side and protrude on the other. Locksmiths have kits of these wafers but the one I went to didn't have the right size. If you file off too many of the wafers, the lock won't work any more as there will be nothing to keep the cylinder from turning - even without a key! If you still have one or two effective wafers, many different keys might work. Best bet is to swap wafers as much as possible and only file if you have no other solution. I don't think there are more than 4 different wafer depths.

 
Here's the question, how the heck do you get the wafers out? I considered trying to open the thing, but given each wafer is controlled with springs, I started to get a little nervous. I had visions of myself on my hands and knees with a flashlight, searching for springs the size of a pencil tip while cursing myself for ever thinking this was a good idea. My first attempt at filing I only filed the top of the wafers smooth and even just the smallest protrusion on the bottom was enough to keep the cylinder from turning.

 
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