Relay trigger power

[Unleaded]

I've been searching some old threads to make sure the FJR doesn't have any unused circuits (like an additional aux pigtail) already wired in to the factory loom, and didn't see any. I don't love tapping OEM wires for critical components (like lights) for aftermarket additions, so I was thinking of using the lighter plug in the dash compartment. Any better ideas or thoughts? Just looking for switched power to my fuseblock.

Thanks!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Many have used the running light circuit for the trigger, cig lighter works fine too. Depending on fuse block location, light circuit is easily tapped in the nose or tail.

No big deal...

--G

 

[metalman]

I'm doing the same mod ( aux fusebox) and I'm going to try a Bussman fuse tap. There several types but the one that is a brass strip that fits around the fuse and slides down into the fuse holder with the fuse appears will fit in the small fuse box of the my FJR, a '14ES.

 

[Intech]

I used the power to the outlet in the glove box. My fusebox is under my seat. I would be hesitant in using the lighting circuit or any other more critical circuit. It is easy to get to the glove box power.

 

[SilverHound]

There is a blue wire that goes to the license plate light that already is connected together with a bullet connector. It's located on the left side of the bike in the wire bundle under the side cover adjacent to the seat area and to the rear of the air filter access area. I used it both on my '08 and '14 to trigger the relay on my fuzeblock simply by making a little jumper connection. No posi-taps or cutting required.

Here's a simple diagram of the jumper and connection. Note, I have since upgraded to the better OEM type bullet connectors but the Radio Shack one's will still work.

 

[metalman]

There is a blue wire that goes to the license plate light that already is connected together with a bullet connector. It's located on the left side of the bike in the wire bundle under the side cover adjacent to the seat area and to the rear of the air filter access area. I used it both on my '08 and '14 to trigger the relay on my fuzeblock simply by making a little jumper connection. No posi-taps or cutting required.
Here's a simple diagram of the jumper and connection. Note, I have since upgraded to the better OEM type bullet connectors but the Radio Shack one's will still work.

jExcellent solution!!!! Thanks!!!!

 

[HotRodZilla]

Silver Hound, that is a great idea! Thanks! I was gonna PosiTap mine. This is way better!

 

[ionbeam]

Same can be done with many different connectors. This is how I made a spade connector no cut, no splice connection to the coil for my cruise control install:

 

[Fred W]

Another really handy spot for farkles up in the front end of the bike is your horn wire. The +12v is supplied to the horn full time on one side with the ground being supplied by the horn switch to the other side, only when you push the button. If you are only driving a relay you do not need to fuse that line as the fuse is already sized fine

 

[Bounce]

I found a problem with noise introduced into any circuit sharing the horn. Fire off the horn and the radar detector alerts, etc.

 

[bergmen]

I've been searching some old threads to make sure the FJR doesn't have any unused circuits (like an additional aux pigtail) already wired in to the factory loom, and didn't see any. I don't love tapping OEM wires for critical components (like lights) for aftermarket additions, so I was thinking of using the lighter plug in the dash compartment. Any better ideas or thoughts? Just looking for switched power to my fuseblock.
Thanks!

That is exactly how I powered the relay in my Fuseblock. A long run for the wire but it works perfectly.

Dan

 

[Fred W]

I found a problem with noise introduced into any circuit sharing the horn. Fire off the horn and the radar detector alerts, etc.

No, no, no...

You don't power any devices off of that wire. You only use it to trigger a 12V power control relay, which will switch the 12V power directly from your battery to your device(s). If tooting your horn causes the 12V power relay to drop out (de-energize) you've got some serious issues in your horn circuit wiring.

 

[Unleaded]

Another really handy spot for farkles up in the front end of the bike is your horn wire. The +12v is supplied to the horn full time on one side with the ground being supplied by the horn switch to the other side, only when you push the button. If you are only driving a relay you do not need to fuse that line as the fuse is already sized fine

That's a good idea. And probably easier to access than the lighter plug, I'll bet. Finished up all of my bolt-on farkles, so I'll be tackling the wiring soon.

 

[Bounce]

I found a problem with noise introduced into any circuit sharing the horn. Fire off the horn and the radar detector alerts, etc.

No, no, no...

You don't power any devices off of that wire. You only use it to trigger a 12V power control relay, which will switch the 12V power directly from your battery to your device(s). If tooting your horn causes the 12V power relay to drop out (de-energize) you've got some serious issues in your horn circuit wiring.

that happened in my early days before learning about relays. now it's a matter of total load on the line since I also feed 3rd party horns (through a relay) off that line.

I found it much cleaner to use to windshield auto-retract circuit. Whether that's possible on a 2013/2015 is something for current owners to research and report back.

 

[mcatrophy]

...I found it much cleaner to use to windshield auto-retract circuit. Whether that's possible on a 2013/2015 is something for current owners to research and report back.

No research necessary, no auto-retract on a Gen III .

 

[BritRider]

Here is a photograph of my relay tap connected to the License plate light blue/red cable under the LH side panel.

 

[Warpdrv]

Thanks for this Picture Brit Rider.....

Made a bracket yesterday for my Fuzeblock to mount in the tail section, just need to run a few more wires to get everything finished up.

Also hooked up that Battery extender I bought so long ago...

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/10-fjr-farkling-ii/52249-battery-terminal-connection-extenders.html

Grabbing power from that will make things nice and easy as well....

 

[hppants]

I have to go look at it closer, but Brit's picture doesn't look like mine ('14A model), I do not think.

Regardless, I have two electrical questions.

(Disclaimer - Pants has trouble with electrons and all that goes with them - you've got to reply on a 1st grade level)

1. If the relay says it's rated for "30 amps", does that mean that the sum total of the circuits that the relay can trigger must not exceed 30 amps? Certainly, that doesn't mean that the relay itself draws 30 amps? My concern is that I may over power my License Plate wire (or whichever wire I grab for ignition hot).

2. For my GPS, rather than use the 12 Cig. Socket (or running a second one), I'd rather just run the GPS power wire directly to the fuse block. Do they make shielded cables with a mini-USB connector on one side (GPS side) and a positive/negative open wire on the other? And if so, do I need to worry about noise or any other issues for this particular wire/cable?

I'm spending a lot of time contemplating my accessory wiring harness. I "rat-nested" my gen I because I bought farkles one at a time. On the new bike, I know where I want to end so I want to make a loom or harness that is both pretty and very functional.

Trouble is - I'm stupid (er... ignorant). I've really got to think this through to feel confident about it. And I certainly don't want to start chewing on a brand new bike.

 

[mcatrophy]

I have to go look at it closer, but Brit's picture doesn't look like mine ('14A model), I do not think.
Regardless, I have two electrical questions.

(Disclaimer - Pants has trouble with electrons and all that goes with them - you've got to reply on a 1st grade level)

1. If the relay says it's rated for "30 amps", does that mean that the sum total of the circuits that the relay can trigger must not exceed 30 amps? Certainly, that doesn't mean that the relay itself draws 30 amps? My concern is that I may over power my License Plate wire (or whichever wire I grab for ignition hot).

2. For my GPS, rather than use the 12 Cig. Socket (or running a second one), I'd rather just run the GPS power wire directly to the fuse block. Do they make shielded cables with a mini-USB connector on one side (GPS side) and a positive/negative open wire on the other? And if so, do I need to worry about noise or any other issues for this particular wire/cable?

I'm spending a lot of time contemplating my accessory wiring harness. I "rat-nested" my gen I because I bought farkles one at a time. On the new bike, I know where I want to end so I want to make a loom or harness that is both pretty and very functional.

Trouble is - I'm stupid (er... ignorant). I've really got to think this through to feel confident about it. And I certainly don't want to start chewing on a brand new bike.

1. That's the rating for the contacts. The coil takes much less, in most bike circuits you can ignore it.

2. Can't help directly with "do they make a cable...", but be aware that the USB feed will be for 5 volts, not 12 volts. You must use a 5volt regulator, a car ones with a usb socket are readily available. You could at least test it plugging into your glove-box outlet.

Don't worry about asking questions, if you don't know and don't ask, then you would be being stupid.