Rotella T Synthetic 0W-40

[Newfie Bullet]

Do any of you Oil Experts see any problems with using Rotella T Synthetic 0W-40?

 

[fjrchooser]

Only perhaps with buying any. Are you sure about that weight ?

 

[Wolfhound]

And on friday to boot ! This should be good ! I Predict the first stone thrown in 3 . . .2 . . .1 ..... :jerry: :butcher:

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Only perhaps with buying any. Are you sure about that weight ?

He's in Canada -- different lubes/refiners/marketing/etc.

 

[Newfie Bullet]

And on friday to boot ! This should be good ! I Predict the first stone thrown in 3 . . .2 . . .1 ..... :jerry: :butcher:

All You want at The Local Canadian Tire Store.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Why did you post this twice? First post closed.

Try olive oil.. Extra Virgin olive oil.... It smells good and tastes great. Probably will NOT protect your motor at all but hey, it's FRIDAY!

 

[RenoJohn]

we'll you're on to something ....

1.) we don't have the 0-40 rotella syn down here in the USA, we've just recenty been able to get the 0-40mobile1 via mainstream retailers. (I use this in our diesel)

2.) Mixing your rotella syn 0-40 in equal parts with Mobil1 15-40 and Amsoil syn 10-40 (1/3 of each) will give you the ultimate winter-season mix. For Canadian summer mix, double up on the Amsoil.

3.) Your FJR will love this mix, you'll notice cleaner shifting, smother braking and longer battery life -and of course minimal front tire cupping. Most mostly, you'll be the envy of your south-of the border FJR peers who can't get the Rotella 0-40.

We should all be so lucky ...enjoy.

renojohn

 

[kaitsdad]

we'll you're on to something ....
1.) we don't have the 0-40 rotella syn down here in the USA, we've just recenty been able to get the 0-40mobile1 via mainstream retailers. (I use this in our diesel)

2.) Mixing your rotella syn 0-40 in equal parts with Mobil1 15-40 and Amsoil syn 10-40 (1/3 of each) will give you the ultimate winter-season mix. For Canadian summer mix, double up on the Amsoil.

3.) Your FJR will love this mix, you'll notice cleaner shifting, smother braking and longer battery life -and of course minimal front tire cupping. Most mostly, you'll be the envy of your south-of the border FJR peers who can't get the Rotella 0-40.

We should all be so lucky ...enjoy.

renojohn

One thing that RenoJohn left out is that a side effect of using the mix described in #2 negates the necessity of having a custom saddle made. That, and your headlights will become uber efficient in producing lumens, negating the need for HID's. All in all, a win-win situation. Oh yeah - the mix requires a very specific torque value on the drain plug. Use the search function.

 

[kulwen]

3.) Your FJR will love this mix, you'll notice cleaner shifting, smother braking and longer battery life -and of course minimal front tire cupping. Most mostly, you'll be the envy of your south-of the border FJR peers who can't get the Rotella 0-40.
We should all be so lucky ...enjoy.

renojohn

Doh!!! That must be my front tire issue. Thanks.

Since I am out riding in the snow today I might have been able to get better snow traction if I had the correct mix.

 

[Slappy]

Newfie, in the future I would highly suggest not posting opinion type posts of friday. There are sharks in these here waters.

I however will answer you seriously. What does Yamaha recommend? 20w40. Why do they recommed such a high cold weight? I dont know either because none of us are yamaha engineers. They put specific weights on lubercants for a reason. Oil is the only one, from what I can tell, that everyone for some reason trys to go lighter that what is recommended from the manufacturer. People are putting 75w140 in the rear end when all it calls for is 75w80. People put super moly in the splines when all it calls for is yamaha standard moly. Where it calls for lithium soap people are putting in Military grade high temp grease. The list goes on and on. So why in the hell would you skimp on putting a lower weight oil in your engine and transmission? Are you going to ride in temperatures below 20F? Using a 0W cold weight oil is not going to give you extra performance that you will be able to detect. It is not going to be better for the transmission or engine that is designed for 20w40.

I hope this helps you in your future oil usage.

 

[FJRBluesman]

Newfie, in the future I would highly suggest not posting opinion type posts of friday. There are sharks in these here waters.
I however will answer you seriously....

Pansy!

 

[Bustanut joker]

What??? A fukin' Oil thread on a Friday?

Best bet for the good stuff..... dump a jug of KY jelly in yer ***, followed by a coffee enema, filter through an old jockstrap, an dump er in the crankcase.

Yer welcome,

:jester:

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

What does Yamaha recommend? 20w40. Why do they recommed such a high cold weight? I dont know either because none of us are yamaha engineers. They put specific weights on lubercants for a reason.

Well, Yamaha doesn't recommend that viscosity in other markets -- only in the U.S. (maybe?, because that's what they (Cypress) had bottled for them as Yamalube -- I've heard that viscosity isn't currently available as Yamalube).

So why in the hell would you skimp on putting a lower weight oil in your engine and transmission? Are you going to ride in temperatures below 20F? Using a 0W cold weight oil is not going to give you extra performance that you will be able to detect. It is not going to be better for the transmission or engine that is designed for 20w40.

Let's see if I can shed some light on this? The viscosity you need to be concerned about primarily is the 40 number -- that's the 'operating viscosity' of the FJR engine (it has a lube-to-coolant heat-exchanger and oil temp will be at or near coolant temp -- and, will get there as soon as possible) therefore, adhering to Yamaha's recco of that number may make some sense. Atho, the 40 number is a very coarse measurement of viscosity -- certain brand's 40 may be closer to a 30; others may be closer to a 50.

The "0" part of the multi-vis listing means that that oil doesn't get any thicker than a "0" viscosity when cold -- good thing in my view -- oil stays fluid and flows well when cold (does its job). The '40" part means it gets no thinner than (somewhere in) the "40" range when hot. In that regard, a 0 - 40 will be the same as a 20 - 40 when hot.

The 'ideal' oil is one that doesn't change viscosity regardless of temperature. The Shell Rotella T '0W-40' sounds like it's getting close to that?