Routine Maintenance Genius Move

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Bill Lumberg

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Having done fluid changes (I swear I'm going to stop putting a new filter on and changing the final drive fluid every 4K, no- really) several times without incident, I sat down to do oil/filter/final drive fluid for my 16K service. I was about to be on the road for a couple of weeks, and wanted this out of the way before I flew out. Oil went fine, though I spilled a little, breaking my streak of zero drips or spills. On to the final drive. As I was filling the drive with $25.00 per quart Yamaha-made-only-for-two-bikes-on-the-planet drive fluid, I pondered my OCD dilemma after every service- I can check the oil level to make sure I didn't over or under fill, but once I seal the final drive, I never really know until the next service. A sane person would not give this a second thought, bottom of the fill hole and move on. But me, well I decided it would surely be better to slowly spin the rear wheel, to make sure sufficient magical juice imbued with japonesera unicorn earwax made it into the final drive, ensuring that no air pockets precluded shoehorning in as much more-expensive-than-single-malt-scotch kool aid as possible. I found that it is possible to fit an ounce or more extra into the hole by slowly spinning the wheel as you pour. Then, as you congratulate yourself on improving on a simple task that was in no need of improvement, the liquid gold comes pouring back out, reducing the level of fluid to the level the drive actually needs, the amount an adult with normal mental function would have applied in the first place. Sheer brilliance.

 
Sorry, but I don't think you're the only genius around here. Probably one of many if I had to guess. I was smarter though as the first time I ever changed it, after spinning the wheel I quickly put the plug back to keep it all in there. Then after the very next ride and researching whether or not I had a major driveline failure, I spent some time cleaning up all the overfill which found its way out.
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Live and learn.

 
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FWIW, I've found that if I drain thoroughly I can measure 7 oz back in, and it's fine.

I used to worry that it I never seemed to get as much out as I put in, but I took the time to drain it into a graduated container last time -- 7 oz out -- 7 oz back in.
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I'm wondering why you would change the final drive fluid every 4k...... totally not necessary, once a year is plenty. Mama Yama says every 2 years or 16000 miles. Judge the condition after a year and you'll probably not decide to wait 2 years. And oil is self-levelling as you found out, but don't be spinning that rear wheel. Excess tends to be expelled via the vent.

Mama Yama also says oil filter every 8000 miles...... nobody will criticize you for changing it at 4000....... but if you think about it, if one had that many particles big enough to clog an oil filter in 8000, there's some serious other problem going on. Let's say the filter can take out particles 20 microns or bigger........... changing the oil takes care of anything smaller than that.

 
I'm on another side of that obsessiveness fence.

I use better than OE specified quality oil (Mobil1 15W50) and change it at 5k intervals. I also use a better quality than OE oil filter (Bosch, Purolator Pure1 or Purolator Synthetic) and only change that every other oil change, so at 10k intervals. I also do the final drive oil every other oil service, but use Mobil1 synthetic 75W90. I suppose that I could be setting myself up for a warranty refusal some day. But based on the number of warranty claims that I had on 5 years of YES on my '05 (zero claims) I think I'll be OK.

 
Funny story, well told.

On the intervals, it's just easy for me to remember

Oil and filter every 5K

Final drive every 10K

Nice and even, no thinking back to the mileage when I last changed whatever.

 
What makes a filter better than OEM?: " I also use a better quality than OE oil filter (Bosch, Purolator Pure1 or Purolator Synthetic)"

I've read a lot of stuff to indicate aftermarket filters can be adequate, but never found any quantified measurement that indicated one as better.

 
That comment is based on the dissected filters. If you have seen what is inside the Yamaha OEM filter before (google around, they are out there) you would realize that they are not particularly well constructed internally, considering the premium price that they get for them.

Certainly the OEMs are totally adequate for the job when following the manufacturers 4k oil change, 8k oil filter recommendations, as has been proven by FJR longevity and reliability. But, I do like to stretch my change intervals (5k oil / 10k on filters) and being a cheap *** frugal Yankee, I especially like to get the quality that I am paying for, even if that is overkill.

YMMV

 
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