Running wires from front to back

[RDC]

Really enjoying my new 18ES. But, now it's time to start farkling it up!

First addition (actually three in one). I'm adding my old Zumo 550 to the bars, connected to a StarCom1, both running off a new FuzeBlock FZ-1.

My question; How are you guys running your wires from your bars to the back of the bike? I'm installing the StarCom and FuzeBlock under the seat.

Thanks all!

Rick

 

[Pterodactyl]

Use this to protect the wire: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085CJ4RK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

It comes in a variety of sizes. I ran my wires along the right side. Pull the fairing, fuel tank trim and panel that runs below the seat and you will find a path to under the seat. You can also lift the fuel tank to make it easier, but you can do it without that effort.

 

[mcatrophy]

I went the whole hog and removed side-panels as necessary to follow the factory loom, on my 2014 & 2018.

Took me a lot longer than running wires over the engine under the tank, but it results in the neatest result, least likely to interfere with any future servicing.

 

[hppants]

I built the entire wiring harness including power wires, light wires, comm wires, and anything that goes front to back and put the whole thing in shrink wrap. I ran that on the right side along the frame rail, behind the side cover (not the fairing), and along side the tool pouch to the underseat area. Picked up a trigger wire from the blue wire with the white stripe on the left side, which is the license plate light I believe. Used solderless connectors similar to Yamahas to avoid cutting or even tapping the factory harness.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Ive taken the pants approach to past wiring jobs. The all wires in one sealed wiring harness is a neat, tidy and safe approach. There are, however, two things to consider. First make damn sure the wiring is exactly the way you want it before you seal it. Double check fit and continuity. Second, realize that in the future that making changes to your accessory set-up will be complicated by having everything sealed.

I think building a sealed harness is a smart move if done properly and with the understanding that future modification will be more difficult.

 

[Bounce]

I did the same as above (not draped over the top of the engine) and also made sure the loom I used to protect against abrasion was also rated for high-temp. What I got at the time was an asphalt-like loom without a split. A split loom (if you could be sure it won't open up) would be easier to manage on longer runs (no need to "thread" the wire through the loom).

I didn't get it from here but this looks a lot like the kind I got.

https://www.delcity.net/store/Asphalt-Coated-Fabric-Loom/p_279.h_805620

 

[graler]

The main line from the battery to the fuze block was an assembly I bought from Eastern Beaver - you need to tell them to reverse the positive and negative leads on their stock harness because of the battery orientation on the FJR. If memory serves you can also order a little extra length. This was very nice and tidy. I ran the wires from the fuze block to the accessories. These are not very tidy and would best be described as willy nilly. Every time I go in that area I tell my self that I should spend the time and clean that up. I never seem to get to that spot on the to do list - go figure.

joe

 

[Bounce]

Here was my clean up project

You can see the asphalt loom I used in some of the photos and a quick-and-easy way to ID both ends of each run.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[Pterodactyl]

My FuseBloc installation...

 

[RDC]

Thank you for all the responses!

I get my fuzeblock this week and will review all these answers before I begin my install.

Thanks again!

RIck

 

[RDC]

My FuseBloc installation...
Pterodactyl,

Curious, why did you place the Fuzeblock inside another container? Just an additional layer of protection from the elements?

 

[FJR Flyer]

The main line from the battery to the fuze block was an assembly I bought from Eastern Beaver - you need to tell them to reverse the positive and negative leads on their stock harness because of the battery orientation on the FJR. If memory serves you can also order a little extra length. This was very nice and tidy. I ran the wires from the fuze block to the accessories. These are not very tidy and would best be described as willy nilly. Every time I go in that area I tell my self that I should spend the time and clean that up. I never seem to get to that spot on the to do list - go figure.
joe

I took the easy way out and got the Eastern Beaver harness, with the relay and fuse block. They have a specific harness to account for the FJR battery orientation. Ton easier than the power strips I did on my '06.

 

[Pterodactyl]

Pterodactyl,

Curious, why did you place the Fuzeblock inside another container? Just an additional layer of protection from the elements?

Protects the FuzeBloc and wiring from dust, moisture and inadvertant contact. Probably overkill, but has served me well.

 

[Bounce]

Anything worth doing is worth over-doing. Kudos!

 

[SLK50]

I also went the Eastern Beaver route back in 06.

Everything I needed from one source.

Straight forward installation.

Installed the fuse block to the frame near the glovebox

as all my electrical needs were up front or on

the handlebars.

 

[1911]

https://www.centechwire.com/Relay-Wiring-Kit-AP-170R.htm

Fused as close to the battery as possible!

All my accessories are powered from the fusebox which is powered from the AP130R. No accessory current is drawn through any OEM wiring, other than what is needed to close the relay. Overkill for a Zumo and a Starcom but not if you start running lights or heated gear.

IMHO