Running wires

[squeezer]

Getting ready to do the Blue Sea install. I think I've been through all the threads and the info is great!

I haven't yet run across a photo of how folks run wires through the engine area. Is it going to be obvious when I get in there? I take it the battery side is the best?

Thanks.

 

[Chips]

Getting ready to do the Blue Sea install. I think I've been through all the threads and the info is great!
I haven't yet run across a photo of how folks run wires through the engine area. Is it going to be obvious when I get in there? I take it the battery side is the best?

Thanks.

It seems simple enough and Marc has it documented on his site: https://www.fjr1300.info/mods/powerblock.html

 

[Ignacio]

Another option inside the frame would be to use heat resistant "asphaltic" or "asphalt" loom as shown in here.

 

[Bounce]

more references and photos: https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

the last photo shows the asphalt loom and one way to "tag" different runs (indicated being run #3).

 

[Warchild]

Asphalt loom carrying 12-gauge (+) circuits 'A' and 'B' through hot engine bay:

 

[Fencer]

On my 06 I ran mine between the tank and the foil heat shield.

It was easy enough to fish through without lifting th tank. and then ran along the frame/fairing wall from the front seat to the tail-lights.

 

[Longrifle]

On my 06 I ran mine between the tank and the foil heat shield.
It was easy enough to fish through without lifting th tank. and then ran along the frame/fairing wall from the front seat to the tail-lights.

+1 Easiest route straight from the battery!

 

[bluejag]

As Warchild has shown,the asphalt loom IS the best!! right or left side you should use this going through the engine bay (Heat issue?) if anyone needs some of this loom PM me I have extra from my installs..

 

[Ignacio]

As Warchild has shown,the asphalt loom IS the best!! right or left side you should use this going through the engine bay (Heat issue?) if anyone needs some of this loom PM me I have extra from my installs..

I just so happen to pick some up from Napa. 1/4" is #737101 and 3/8" is #737103 with both being about $1 a foot.

 

[bluejag]

NAPA it is! (by the box) let me know.....

 

[v65]

I am in the process of finishing this install up with pics, until then let me throw this out for the group: there are three obvious routes to go:

1) Go down the right side over the frame.

2) Go down the right side under the frame.

3) Go through the steering head, then left or right becomes irrelevant.

#1 has the obvious benefit of being the easiest, I went this route when I first installed my powerlet. I zipped tied the cable to the T-frame over the jiffy-pop. The disadvantage, every time you lift the tank you have more stuff to mess with.

#2 overcomes the small disadvantage to #1, but now you are following the same route as the plug wires from the coils, which I would guess could lead to noise if you wiring audio components off the block.

So I am going with #3 down the left side of the engine. Because of the way I wired the relay, it didn't add much effort anyway.

 

[squeezer]

Thanks a ton, guys. I especially appreciate the NAPA part number because I was just there and the counter guys didn't know what I was talking about when I asked for asphalt loom.

 

[brazos parker]

I installed a Blue Sea fuse block under the passenger seat. Ran the wires up the right side along the frame to the battery. I used fiberglass sheathing from J C Whitney. I ran the "hot" wire thru red sheathing, the "ground" wire thru tan sheathing and farkle wires (GPS only, for now) thru blue sheathing.

 

[BrunDog]

The ashpalt loom, is good. I also like 7940K32 split looming from McMaster-Carr, though it is not high temp, it is just easy (even fun) to work with.

But the real point of my post is to comment on the heat issue. Everyone worries about the loom or sleeve. Yes, they are heat resistant, but that does not mean the wires inside are insulated from heat at all. Obviously, there is no magic ability for this loom to keep heat out and nice chilly air inside.

With that in mind, if you are concerned about the heat, you should be concerned about the wire insulation. Most hookup wires are 80 degree C rated, meaning of course, that the PVC jacket will remain stable to 80 degrees. After that, is begins to soften and its ability to protect is diminshed as the temperature continues to rise. Hence, 105 - 200 degree C cables and wires. These are the wires you should be using, IMO, rather than 80 degree jacketing, when you run through the engine bay.

Unfortunately, the auto parts stores don't carry this stuff. Heck, their wire isn't even marked on the package - you have to look at the wire itself. DigiKey carries plenty of this wiring, though looking it up is a little tricky. Here is a nice 12 gauge wire.

Anyway, as usual, just my 4 halfpennies.

-BD

 

[twodogs]

Duplex marine grade wire.

For (an expensive) example:

https://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...10001/690/120/9

 

[Rogue]

Duplex marine grade wire.
For (an expensive) example:

https://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...10001/690/120/9

You could use this: 250 C wire Or this: 450 C wire . :blink:

 

[squeezer]

What are the reasons for running the pos and ground wires through separate looms? Is it just to avoid a short if the insulation melts, or does that prevent noise in the audio components?

 

[BrunDog]

What are the reasons for running the pos and ground wires through separate looms? Is it just to avoid a short if the insulation melts, or does that prevent noise in the audio components?

That's a good idea. It would help prevent a short is the insulation fails.

-BD

 

[twodogs]

Duplex marine grade wire.
For (an expensive) example:

https://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/store...10001/690/120/9

You could use this: 250 C wire Or this: 450 C wire . :blink:

Nice source!!

But, hell, let's overspec it just to make sure:

https://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=HTCM&Nav=temh12

1000C baaaaayybeeeeee!!!!!!

- but, maybe a bit inflexible.