Runs Rough Need Help PLEASE!!

[candymon]

My 2003 FJR continues to run rough after numerous attempts at fixing the problem. I really need and would greatly appreciate your help. Here's the situation. My 2003 FJR only has 14,000 on it. I bought it two years ago with only 5,700 miles on it. The bike ran awesome. It has a PCIII with Staintune Slip On and K&N air filter. About two months ago the bike began to run rough intermittently. I'd be cruising along and the bike would just start hesitating. I would ride into a wind gust and the bike would begin to hesitate. I would go up a steep hill and the bike would hesitate. I would start to take off from a stop and the bike would hesitate. The problem is that the hesitation is inconsistent. The bike starts up fine from a cold start every time and seems to run great for the first 10 minutes or so. Then the intermittent jerkiness kicks in. The following is what I've done so far trying to remedy this problem.

Checked all electrical connectors under the tank. Cleaned them and filled connectors with dielectric grease.

Synced Throttle bodies

Changed spark plugs

Took out K&N filter and replaced with new OEM filter

Reset PCIII and entered new map

Checked diag on LCD including fuel pump, injectors, TPS, etc. and all check OK (at least according to what is displayed on the LCD readout) The TPS moves smoothly from 17 to 100 without any jerkiness.

I've run three different types of injector cleaner through the tank. First with STP, then Amsoil, now Sea Foam.

The bike still has intermittent hesitation. I have not checked the spark plug wire boots, as the bike runs fine at first. I would greatly appreciate any suggestion you may have to fix the problem. I love my bike and just want it running smooth and fast like it did before.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Candy,

Looks like you checked almost everything. Did you really get to the Main Harness Connector?

You may want to Unscrew the Sparkplug Boots off the wires, trim of about a 1/4 inch, and Re-Install the Wires back into the Boots. AND....Check your Coil Connection at the Frame.

In addition, when I had my similar problems, I Insulated or Isolated any Plug Wire from touching each other or any metal surface and even the Throttle Body Assy's small wires that touched the metal body to make sure there was no break down in the insulation or shorting possibilities.

Did you run Without the PCIII to see if there was any difference?

Did you Check your Computer to see if Any Error Codes have been thrown?

Good Luck with your fix.

 

[RadioHowie]

Only 14k miles in 6 years, and only 5700 in the first 4 years means it's sat unridden a lot. That could mean rust in the tank. And since there's no real filter (per-se) in the fuel system, the fuel pump can definitely be damaged by pumping rusty gas through it. Trust me...I know.

If you're really in to eliminating as many fault possibilities as you can, you might consider pulling the fuel pump out and checking the condition of the interior of the tank.

Here's what rust can do to a Feej fuel pump:

CLICK

 

[HotRodZilla]

When you checked all the electrical connections did you make sure the ground to the PCIII was still good? When I had my VTX1800, I started getting intermittent heistation that turned into the bike dying at all different times. Turned out the ground wire from the PCIII had backed out and was only making contact part time.

 

[SkooterG]

Bad TPS? Was the original ever replaced?

 

[candymon]

Only 14k miles in 6 years, and only 5700 in the first 4 years means it's sat unridden a lot. That could mean rust in the tank. And since there's no real filter (per-se) in the fuel system, the fuel pump can definitely be damaged by pumping rusty gas through it. Trust me...I know.
If you're really in to eliminating as many fault possibilities as you can, you might consider pulling the fuel pump out and checking the condition of the interior of the tank.

Here's what rust can do to a Feej fuel pump:

CLICK

I looked in the gas tank with a flash light and do not see any signs at all of rust. Though the bike had few miles on it when I purchased it. The guy who I bought it from was a very anal auto mechanic. He always had the tank full to prevent condinsation. I think the next step is to trin off about 1/4 of spark plug wire and reinstall the boots to insure good connections. I'm also going to check with the dealer to see if the TPS was replaced under the recall. Any other thoughts are appreciated.

 

[beacher]

Candy, please let us know the results as you work your way through the problem; it may help someone else, down the line!

 

[ionbeam]

Many times a TPS will only fail when it gets hot. The TPS is a semi-circular resistor that a wiper runs along as the throttle is turned. The failed TPSes I've seen tend to have the resistor material 'wear out' in locations where the throttle is normally held. In my case the TPS wore out in two places, one was just off idle and the other was ~3k rpm where I usually cruise. Once hot, the hesitation and/or rough running will almost always occur within a narrow rpm range, regardless of gear. It is misleading to see engine loading as related, what is actually happening is your need to adjust throttle position to accommodate changes in road pitch, wind and small speed variations. Each of these small throttle trims can take you in and out of the narrow range that the TPS has failed in.

If your TPS was changed by a dealer as part of the recall you can pretty much rule out the TPS. If it was changed by a good intending previous owner there is no guarantee he used the upgraded replacement part. All you need to do is call your dealer and give him your VIN and he can look up your recall history and tell you if the TPS was replaced as part of the recall campaign.

 

[candymon]

Many times a TPS will only fail when it gets hot. The TPS is a semi-circular resistor that a wiper runs along as the throttle is turned. The failed TPSes I've seen tend to have the resistor material 'wear out' in locations where the throttle is normally held. In my case the TPS wore out in two places, one was just off idle and the other was ~3k rpm where I usually cruise. Once hot, the hesitation and/or rough running will almost always occur within a narrow rpm range, regardless of gear. It is misleading to see engine loading as related, what is actually happening is your need to adjust throttle position to accommodate changes in road pitch, wind and small speed variations. Each of these small throttle trims can take you in and out of the narrow range that the TPS has failed in.
If your TPS was changed by a dealer as part of the recall you can pretty much rule out the TPS. If it was changed by a good intending previous owner there is no guarantee he used the upgraded replacement part. All you need to do is call your dealer and give him your VIN and he can look up your recall history and tell you if the TPS was replaced as part of the recall campaign.

I called the dealer yesterday and the previous owner did take it in for the recall. The service manager was very helpfull over the phone and said the first thing he would do is disconnect the power commander. That's what I'm going to do now. Wish me luck.

 

[candymon]

Many times a TPS will only fail when it gets hot. The TPS is a semi-circular resistor that a wiper runs along as the throttle is turned. The failed TPSes I've seen tend to have the resistor material 'wear out' in locations where the throttle is normally held. In my case the TPS wore out in two places, one was just off idle and the other was ~3k rpm where I usually cruise. Once hot, the hesitation and/or rough running will almost always occur within a narrow rpm range, regardless of gear. It is misleading to see engine loading as related, what is actually happening is your need to adjust throttle position to accommodate changes in road pitch, wind and small speed variations. Each of these small throttle trims can take you in and out of the narrow range that the TPS has failed in.
If your TPS was changed by a dealer as part of the recall you can pretty much rule out the TPS. If it was changed by a good intending previous owner there is no guarantee he used the upgraded replacement part. All you need to do is call your dealer and give him your VIN and he can look up your recall history and tell you if the TPS was replaced as part of the recall campaign.

I called the dealer yesterday and the previous owner did take it in for the recall. The service manager was very helpfull over the phone and said the first thing he would do is disconnect the power commander. That's what I'm going to do now. Wish me luck.

I found the problem. YEA!!!!!!! The service manager at the dealership was correct. I disconnected the Power Commander and the hesitations and jearkiness I was experiencing went away. It appears that my Power Commander is defective. After searching this forum using the keywork "hesitation", I've found that many others have and are experiencing similair issues. I spent many hours chasing down this problem. My advise to all is the 1st step to take is to disconnect your Power Commander and reinstall the original connections. This is simple and is definitly the 1st place to go. I will now contact Dynojet and look into repairing my unit. Thanks to all who responded to my problem. This is a great forum loaded with great people.

 

[RadioHowie]

Dude! Congratulations on not having to conduct a massive undomesticated waterfowl quest.

You have NO idea how lucky you are to find it so fast.

Now GO RIDE!!