Rush hour, going 70 in the fast lane, bike dies, I don't...

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is the intermission over yet?
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No. We have to wait for him to get home from his job. I hear he soaks corks:

https://screen.yahoo.com/cork-soakers-000000587.html

 
Peeking in from work....
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Sorry to not have had a chance to give the whole RestoftheStory in one fell swoop.

But again, my theory focuses on the kill switch. And when I got home from the near miss, in the garage I tested my hypothesis, with positive results (the null hypothesis was disproved, or proved.... F**k!--I was never good at statistics
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). Anyway, accepting theories about how the kill switch (now I know why they call it that
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) could have punked me like that....

 
... I've got no throttle, no electrical--nothin'. The bike is completely dead...]
It doesn't sound like a kill switch if there was no electrical what so ever. Just back from a dealer; sounds like a loose battery ground to me. But that's just my opinion.

 
... I've got no throttle, no electrical--nothin'. The bike is completely dead...]
It doesn't sound like a kill switch if there was no electrical what so ever. Just back from a dealer; sounds like a loose battery ground to me. But that's just my opinion.
I think I may have made that "no electrical" bit up to add drama--because now I think of it, though in my panic around the herd of elephants about to trample me, in the bright sunlight, I could not see whether the electrical died. But after stopping up against the concrete wall at left, and calmly just trying to re-start the bike, having turned the ignition key on and off, it started right up like a champ and I was able to blast on outta there like it was the DeLorean in Back to the Future.

 
...calmly just trying to re-start the bike, having turned the ignition key on and off, it started right up like a champ
3) China made my ignition key switch.
Glad that worked for ya. I sure would miss your posts
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Now that's how you spell relief.

It would probably be a good idea to check your battery terminals, if you don't see a problem there raise the tank and do a little digging to find the ignition switch wires and with the engine running give them a little wiggle to see if it provokes Bad Things. You may also want to check diAG history and see if it caught anything.

So did NEW HORNS = Radiator Repair or perhaps wayward tools when working on the lower triple tree clamps? It would be ironic if it was a new radiator guard that was supposed to prevent radiator damage...

 
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... I've got no throttle, no electrical--nothin'. The bike is completely dead...]
It doesn't sound like a kill switch if there was no electrical what so ever. Just back from a dealer; sounds like a loose battery ground to me. But that's just my opinion.
I think I may have made that "no electrical" bit up to add drama--because now I think of it, though in my panic around the herd of elephants about to trample me, in the bright sunlight, I could not see whether the electrical died. But after stopping up against the concrete wall at left, and calmly just trying to re-start the bike, having turned the ignition key on and off, it started right up like a champ and I was able to blast on outta there like it was the DeLorean in Back to the Future.
I dunno... It does sound similar to my experience (linked on page 1 of this thread). You didn't get a new key cut recently by any chance did you?

 
The RED kill switch is a known failure issue on the FZ6, (same switch as the FJR), especially if used often.

Do you use that RED kill switch often?

However, it'll only kill the engine, it won't kill all the electric's..


IF you had electric's and it just died, my moneys on the kill switch. In bad cases, you can move it around a little bit (while the engine is running) and it'll act up... You can also follow those two wires down the loom and jump them to by pass the switch(the switch won't work, the motor will run).

Here's a link, post #22 from the FZ forum should you want to by pass it:
https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty.html?highlight=kill+switch+fix



If that doesn't pan out, the kick stand switch, rarely fails however one member had it bypassed from the PO. He pulled it apart (as I suggested), the contacts were nasty after cleaning, he was able to hook it back up.

. You can clean that switch without pulling the harness, just the switch and go thru it right next to the bike. There is a small spring inside, try not to loose it. Should you loose it, a retractable PEN SPRING cut down works perfect. And, put some di-lectric grease in there to prevent later corrosion .I believe, (as I re-call), you also jump those wires as well to by pass it..

 
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So did NEW HORNS = Radiator Repair or perhaps wayward tools when working on the lower triple tree clamps? It would be ironic if it was a new radiator guard that was supposed to prevent radiator damage...
I installed the blaster horns along with the special harness made by some crazy FJR forum guy; got it years ago. Anyway, apparently Yamaha was smart enough on the stock horns to include some kinda pin that, even if the horns come loose, keeps them from bumping up against the shocks and other important stuff like the radiator, which I hear tell does something really important. So my Framms got all floppy and started thrashing around and screwing stuff up. $600 later and two weeks without the bike, I have a new radiator. The shop tightened them down snug and applied locktite. My job is to jiggle them occasionally.

Already I notice that the new radiator lights up the heat bars on the dash differently than the stock radiator. Surprising?

 
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The first half of the rest of the story....

The incident: Amazing how your mind races when suddenly all your expected sensory inputs are radically different, gone in fact. You go from being Superman to Superman in the presence of kryptonite. My mind raced as I tried to understand what was happening, trying to work out a logical cause-effect to the fact that I just got it from the dealer; but it was at the dealer for a new radiator, and the bike was not over-heating.

All my dead-bike experience had been about running out of gas, when you've still got some ability to jerk on down the road. I knew I wasn't outta gas, but I figured I must have SOME power. So because there was no left shoulder, and even if there was not wanting to be stranded over there, I started pulling off to the right, being sure to covet the white stripes because those were my safe zones.

I signalled, and looked over my right shoulder into the chompers....

 
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Okay okay okay... the evening is shot anyway (I'm trying to put together a bunch of four-minute Youtube videos to educate my kids and their fellow liberal-arts major friends on the fundamentals of finance and investing; next one is the basics of supply-demand; it can wait)....

The second half of the rest of the story

My theory about why the switch shut off, supported by test when I got home: The kill switch jumped all by itself to the off position. Why do I think this, and how did I test my theory?

When I went to pick up my bike at the dealer, 20 minutes before finding myself stranded on the side of the freeway, the bike was in the parking lot on the center stand. Inside, settling up the bill, it was explained to me how I got the hole in the radiator: after-market horns came loose and F'd things up.

The shop manager walked me out to the bike to show me the new radiator. We talked about the horns, and I said, "Wanna hear them?" He did. The shop manager had already placed my detached key in the ignition, so I reached over and turned it on, then--knowing the horn would work without the engine running--I pressed the horn button--and the engine fired up! I exclaimed, "Sh*t! It's been so long since I've ridden the bike [two weeks] that I've forgotten how!" Instead of hitting the horn button on the left handlebar, I pressed the start button on the right. Point of this segment of the story: The kill switch was already sitting in the run position at the handoff from the dealer. After demonstrating the horn, I turned the key off and suited up.

So when a few minutes later I was suited up and ready to go, I turn the key back on and hit the start button (did not engage the run button; it was already on). Off I went.

After getting outta Dodge and while cruising home, I noodled on what could have happened. I concluded that the run button must not have been fully engaged by the dealer, that it somehow had been toggled only enough to start the bike. The vibration of the bike on the freeway caused it to toggle back into the off position.

When I got home, I found that there is a perfectly middle position of the kill switch where it lies flat--not fully on or off. With it in that position, I turned the key, hit the start button, and--it fired up. My theory is possible.

Nevertheless, based on the comments made above regarding electrical connections, etc., I will do my due diligence there and do the poking around recommended. However, does Occam's Razor favor my explanation or the ones above...?
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... there is a perfectly middle position of the kill switch where it lies flat--not fully on or off. With it in that position, I turned the key, hit the start button, and--it fired up...
What you need is a Gen III. The run/stop and start switch is all one piece, so you can't press the starter button in the "stop" position.

(Click on image for larger view)



And it's an inch narrower at the bags than your Gen I (as is the Gen II), makes lane splitting safer a tad less dangerous. (Yes, I lane split. At my age I've not got enough time left to waste it in queues.)

... the basics of supply-demand; it can wait...
The supply is there, your demand isn't high enough if it can wait
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. (That's my lesson on how to use what people say out of context.
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)

A final little comment: On my YCC-S, you wouldn't have the option of coasting. You can't free the drive (can't pull the clutch, can't change into neutral without going down the box through 1st). That's one thing I try to keep out of my mind when riding.

 
A final little comment: On my YCC-S, you wouldn't have the option of coasting. You can't free the drive (can't pull the clutch, can't change into neutral without going down the box through 1st). That's one thing I try to keep out of my mind when riding.
Actually, I have had a similar situation on my AE and it WILL coast. I had an opportunity to try a GPS back in 2006 at the Utah 1088. This was a loaner for a story a friend of mine was writing for CW at the time. The GPS was a large unit from Lowrance. I had used one of their aviation units and was curious to see their take on motorcycle GPS. It was big and heavy and was mounted to the tank via suction mount. After leaving the rally master's home and heading back to the hotel the night before the rally, I was following my friend down the road and suddenly the GPS mount lost its suction and the thing toppled over toward the right side of the bike. I had visions of the thing bouncing down the road behind me and having to explain that to the manufacturer, when the FJR just quit! Now I'm coasting to the side of the road with no engine power and I'm attempting to maintain control while preventing this GPS from taking a dirt nap. I get safely to the side and remount the GPS, but then I can't start the bike. It now occurs to me that the two events are related. When the GPS fell, it hit the kill switch. As soon as I switched it back to run, the bike fired right up.

Needless to say, I did NOT use that GPS in the rally, or ever again. Now I'm going out the the garage and see if my kill switch has that magical middle position...

 
What are you kidding me! This sh*t's easy. I'm opening up a motorcycle diagnostic and repair shop toot sweet. Don, bring your bike up. You can be my first customer--no charge for my first opinion. You can't do better than that.
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