Seeking Help with an Electronics Diagnostic Routine

[James Burleigh]

In a recent ride report, I alluded to the intermittent functioning of my Gerbing heated gear. Sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. Granted, we don't get as cold out here in Cali as in states that have real weather, but that doesn't make my bones any less painful when temps hover in the 30s.

I figure there are three possible locations of the problem, but I don't know how to diagnose each piece to isolate the problem:

1. The dual controller (gloves, vest) connected under the dash panels to a fuse box (two knobs, not wireless).

2. The wire connectors I run from the controller dongles (if I can use that word

) to my gear.

3. The gear itself (gloves, vest).

Again, it goes back and forth working, so I don't think it's a fuse for example. I find that if I monkey with the connection from the dongles to my wire connectors, that'll sometimes make a difference (they can be very tight connecting, requiring a lot of pressure to seat).

My radar detector is set to indicate volts, and it consistently shows >13.

I have a multimeter, and have read the instructions, but those presume some level of knowledge, like what a volt is, an ohm, resistance, and other sh*t. Sure, I can get readings, but I don't know how to interpret them.

I would appreciate any help y'all can give in laying out some steps to isolate the problem.

Thanks, all, in advance!

JB

 

[Fred W]

Hans,

Intermittents are the most difficult kind of electrical problem to trouble shoot since when you take a measurement that problem may, or may not, be happening. The trick is (usually) to catch it in a failure mode and them make some careful changes to try to determine where the fault is.

Heated gear is not finicky about what voltage and current you give them. It just has to be there to generate heat. So that helps simplify things.

If you could get the equipment to malfunction more consistently, you could rule out the controller by bypassing it, in other words plug your dongle right into the gear.

Also, when you do have a failure, do both the gloves and the vest always go **** up at the same time. This will help determine if the problem is before or after the dual controller.

We'll try to keep you from having to use that pesky multimeter based on your disdain for it.

 

[jayke]

Cold Sucks....

Assuming nothing works when it goes out...check your connections at the fusebox. Don't just look at the wires, pull on them a little. If one comes off, you just found your problem.

Start from the fuse box and work up.

As Fred said, we need more detail from you.

 

[Donal]

I guess the real difficulty here is knowing when it's working & when it isn't because of the delay in trying to detect whether it's actually heating up.

Do you have a spare connector? If you can get one - connect it to a 12 volt bulb and at least you will have instantaneous indication.

Then try working through the system to identify where the actual problem is.

 

[James Burleigh]

All good advice, which I will pursue gentlemen. Thank you.

But may I ask: How do I do a simple continuity test on my wire connectors (controller to gear) and through the gear itself, just to make sure at least that, if there is juice, it can find its way from one place to the next? Then maybe I jingle-jangle ends or connectors and see if my continuity continues....

I'm hoping I've just got bad wire connectors, which is what went to hell on my Widder, and can just replace the connectors. Ironically, the cold weather seems to make those wires brittle from used, connecting and disconnecting each day.

 

[Bustanut joker]

The water in the number 7 carb is either low, or contaminated.. Change it and i bet things straighten out for ya..

Yer welcome.

 

[Fred W]

All good advice, which I will pursue gentlemen. Thank you.
But may I ask: How do I do a simple continuity test on my wire connectors (controller to gear) and through the gear itself, just to make sure at least that, if there is juice, it can find its way from one place to the next? Then maybe I jingle-jangle ends or connectors and see if my continuity continues....

I'm hoping I've just got bad wire connectors, which is what went to hell on my Widder, and can just replace the connectors. Ironically, the cold weather seems to make those wires brittle from used, connecting and disconnecting each day.

Well, you may be jumping ahead of yourself by suspecting those particular connections without first determining if the problem is before or after the controller, but if they have a history of going bad on you then it may be warranted. If any of the wires or connections after the controller were faulty then it will have only effected the one circuit (either vest or gloves, but not both), which was why I asked that question previously. Of course you could also have multiple bad wires or connections.

The way to test those suspect wires is to break down the components and test them independently, and that is going to require you to use your handy multimeter (sorry).

To test the section of wiring from the controller output to the connector, disconnect your vest and gloves from the two controller output cables. Then turn on the controller to full high. You should measure a steady voltage of ~12VDC from the center of the connectors to the outside contact. What that voltage measures is of no consequence, just that it is steady. You'll need to get your test leads connected securely, but then you can wiggle the wires around looking for the voltage to fluctuate based on your wiggling.

To test the section of the wiring from the inline connector to either the vest or gloves requires you top measure the resistance of the circuit, again measured from center connector to the outer contact, but using the Ohms scale of your DVM. What that resistance actually measures doesn't matter as long as it is steady. Then you would flex the wires looking for the resistance to change or fluctuate based on your flexing.

 

[fudgejerkin1188]

I've been using Gerbing heated equipment for about 10 years . In that time I've found the controllers to be 100% reliable. The only clothing to have given me any grief has always been the left glove (three gloves now), Gerbing say its down to use of the clutch causing wear in the internal wires . Other than left glove failure when my heated clothing has failed to heat up its usually been a connection in the wiring leads, tweeking the connection usually gets me nice and toastie again but sometimes I've had to resort to cleaning the connections. I have had to replace two leads due to failure.

 

[3dogs]

Connect your multimeter to the 2 leads from the vest. Set the meter to read continunity (some meters will beep if there is continunity (compltet circuit through the vest). With the meter emitting a steady beep indicating that the wires within the vest are connected to the meter--start folding/tugging and minulating the vest with your hands. If the meter beep stops (even for a fraction of a second) this indicates that you have broken the connection between the vest and the meter somewhere inside the vest.

The "Ohms" method above doesn't always work so try this instead. Use your multimeter's amperage function (hopefully it has one). Connect the meter in series between the vest and a battery and do the work the vest with your hands as above. If the meter reading goes from reading amperage to reading O amps, again you have created an "open" in the circuitl. The reason the amp test is better is that the wires within the vest are carrying current (and getting hot) which is how the vest should normally operate. The presence of amperage flowing in the vest may cause the "open" circuit to show up where with just the ohm meter connected the circuit may remain intact.

Also, connect your multimeter to the controler to read volts. While watching the meter tap on the controller with a screwdriver handle. See if you can make the control's voltage reading change indicating that the controler is bad.

 

[James Burleigh]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm on it! I'll also try cleaning the leads as Gerbing recommends on their site and

fudgejerkin1188 mentions in his post above.