Serious hand, wrist and arm pain

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I've been having similar trouble along with ankle pain, but I think I've got it beat. We just completed a 1000 mile 4 day trip and the bike did GREAT! No real pain other than a couple times I thought it was coming on, but it always subsided. Only the butt was sore and the Russell build date is end of August. I got home and changed clothes and got back on the bike to run around town. I did several things that helped but I really think the ibuprofin made the most difference:

- Scooted forward toward tank more

- Pulled elbows in

- Back stretches in mornings and

- Added GenMar risers and moved bars to closest position

- Vista Cruise let me flex hands

- Vibranators elimated wobble and some vibration

- Gave up on trying to put toes on pegs and ankle pain subsided

- Relaxed and stopped thinking about it so much

- Took ibuprofin before and consistently during trip

Don't give up. Like any ergonomic issue, there is something that is rubbing your joints a certain way that is causing a pain through repetitive motion. Subtle changes can make a lot of difference. Good luck.


Lotsa good advice here and after reading and re reading this post today I put some of it that I could into practice.

Being a lanky SOB with a 33 inside seam if I sit more against the tank my knees and ankle joints are stressed if I have the balls of my feet on the pegs. I did try pressing down with my thighs and made a conscious effort to bend the elbows and keep the forearms as horizontal as I could.

With a more relaxed grip (spring unwind done and Vibranators fitted), and pushing forward in the hips, I felt like I was practicing Yoga for Dummies, but all in all it definitely had a beneficial effect.

Hardly any cramping in the arms and numbness in the fingers.

Must practice more and then relax and enjoy.

 
I think I wrote this in one of those other threads. But what helped me the most was yanking the outboard pin and swinging the bars a bit more "out".

After my 1200 mile trip to Dragon territory. I found on mh return my wrists, hands, and the tendon below my elbow hurt like crap. I went out and sat on the bike in the garage and put my hands on the grips. What I saw was my hands were "cocked" just a bit to the right...meanng when I stretched out my fingers they were not straight in line with my arm, but pointing off to the outside. I could feel the pain below my elbow when I did this.

I then pulled my hands off the grips and straightened my hand so my fingers followed the same line as my arm. Opening and closing my hand no longer hurt now.

I read a thread here where a member took a set of dikes and pulled out the outer pin in handlebar mount....allowing him to swing the ends of the bar farther out.... or in.

I couldn't pull my pins out so I just took them off with a cutoff wheel on my dremel tool. It looked like I now could swing the ends out a good 10 degrees or so....enough that now when I grab the grips my hand is inline with mh arm. A quick 60 mile ride ended with no soreness in my arms of wrist.

To this day I've no issues with comfort in my arms hands or wrist. I even found there was no need to buy risers....which I really thought I needed when I got the bike.

If your build is small and narrow (distance between shoulders) it's quite possible your pain is due to the same cocked wrist hold I had before I altered the bars.

KM
I have a Gen I and found that the stock angle was too close for me. I was able to purchase a set of risers that swing the bars "out" and that change took the pressure/bend off my wrists.

Soooo....adjust the bars "out" and use the Master Yoda technique. And, for longer trips, install a throttle lock of some type so you can stretch your right wrist and arm.

Remember that few of us find a bike that fits us without some type of modification. And the older one gets to more likely one is to do what's necessary to continue enjoying two-wheeled therapy.

Happy riding!

 
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Or...you can simply soak your socks in turpintine. Although it will not help with the pain, it will keep the ants from crawling up your leg and eating your candy ***. :yahoo: Having shoulder and back issues, I can sympathize with you. The risers helped me a lot.

 
Has anyone done a taller riser....about 3"??????? I know this will include extending hydraulic lines. Sat on a friends Gold wing which had a much more relaxed position. I'm 6'3" so with only 1" riser it is little help.

 
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Has anyone done a taller riser....about 3"??????? I know this will include extending hydraulic lines. Sat on a friends Gold wing which had a much more relaxed position. I'm 6'3" so with only 1" riser it is little help.
I've read of people trying to stack two sets of risers. Not sure how stable a stack of three would be. Try a lower seat. I swapped in a Sargent that added a good inch and a half to the bar height.

Regards,

Dan

 
Has anyone done a taller riser....about 3"??????? I know this will include extending hydraulic lines. Sat on a friends Gold wing which had a much more relaxed position. I'm 6'3" so with only 1" riser it is little help.
You'll probably need to extend or reroute the throttle cables as well if you stack the blocks.

I'm 6'3 as well and ride with the seat in the upper position. I have been using 1x1" riser block, although I tried a Heli bridge (brought the bars back too much for me) and am currently trying out an MV plate. As discussed in this thread, work on your conditioning and riding position before going too crazy on modifying the bike.

 
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I have a Russel daylong which I will NEVER give up(Sargent did not work for me) Seat is in upper position. I did think about stacking but yes the stability and tork on the bolts to hold it altogether???? I know someone who knows someone who has the industrial CNC machine. So I may approach the idea to him...I just don't know about cost with set up and the like for two chunks of aluminum.

Sorry I am out of the loop......what is a MV plate???

 
I have a Russel daylong which I will NEVER give up(Sargent did not work for me) Seat is in upper position. I did think about stacking but yes the stability and tork on the bolts to hold it altogether???? I know someone who knows someone who has the industrial CNC machine. So I may approach the idea to him...I just don't know about cost with set up and the like for two chunks of aluminum.

Sorry I am out of the loop......what is a MV plate???
Motorad MV : https://www.mv-motorrad.de/en/MV+Handlebar+Adapter+Plate+Yamaha+FJR+1300+2013+Variant+AE+and+ES+with+Electric+suspension.htm

 
I did think about stacking but yes the stability and tork on the bolts to hold it altogether???? I know someone who knows someone who has the industrial CNC machine. So I may approach the idea to him...I just don't know about cost with set up and the like for two chunks of aluminum.
I don't think you need to worry about torque on the bolts - there are two M8s and two M12s holding the handlebars on - no way could you cause any damage unless you are the Incredible Hulk.

 

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