shift lever sticks

[ranger dave]

i have a 2007 fjr wirh 7,000 miles on it. i had the sticking/dry clutch problem which the dealer corrected. now some times when i am up shifting the lever sticks in the up postion. you can tell with your toe that it didn't come back down to the regular position, so i have to wiggle it a little bit for it to drop down. i've tried using lube on the two pivot points, but that didn't seem to do anything. it's annoying when you run thru the gears and have to take time to make sure the lever has popped back down so that you shift to the next gear. anybody else experience this problem?

 

[radman]

i have a 2007 fjr wirh 7,000 miles on it. i had the sticking/dry clutch problem which the dealer corrected. now some times when i am up shifting the lever sticks in the up postion. you can tell with your toe that it didn't come back down to the regular position, so i have to wiggle it a little bit for it to drop down. i've tried using lube on the two pivot points, but that didn't seem to do anything. it's annoying when you run thru the gears and have to take time to make sure the lever has popped back down so that you shift to the next gear. anybody else experience this problem?

Remove the entire assembly (part of the left footpeg plate) disassemble, clean, and grease. The difference will amaze you. Ditto rear brake lever/pivot assembly.

 

[ranger dave]

i have a 2007 fjr wirh 7,000 miles on it. i had the sticking/dry clutch problem which the dealer corrected. now some times when i am up shifting the lever sticks in the up postion. you can tell with your toe that it didn't come back down to the regular position, so i have to wiggle it a little bit for it to drop down. i've tried using lube on the two pivot points, but that didn't seem to do anything. it's annoying when you run thru the gears and have to take time to make sure the lever has popped back down so that you shift to the next gear. anybody else experience this problem?

Remove the entire assembly (part of the left footpeg plate) disassemble, clean, and grease. The difference will amaze you. Ditto rear brake lever/pivot assembly.

thanks for help, i'll clean it up this weekend and see if that works.

 

[dcarver]

Use PAM? LOL, just kidding, Rad's nailed it.

 

[slapnpop]

Rad's got the answer!

If you foot controls are this grimey, you likely need to lube the rear suspension pivot points, as well as the lever pivots. Don't forget to clean the brake light actuator when doing the foot controls. It can stick leaving your brake light always on.

EDIT: I see this is an '07... They may not be grimey yet, just short on lubrication to begin with. Either way, still sounds like the service is necessary to lube and prevent corrosion.

 

[PA1195]

Just for the heck of it after a good ride last night I looked at my shifter link rod ends - dry on a new '08 - no lube at all. Quick take apart and lube with water resistant grease while the charcoal warmed on the grill and the beers chilled.

Yamaha musta' saved $0.50 (or more!) on my bike. First a dry clutch, and now dry shifter link and shaft. Even the rear brake pedal shaft was dry. They did lube the hand levers. the engine, and rear drive so that at least cost them something. Yamaha quality control appears to be slipping. Easy owner fix, however, and still love the new ride.

Maybe that's why Honda raised the price in '09 on the ST1300 about $1500 - to make a real profit in a slow economy. Is the Yen stronger, or Honda just greedy?

Gary in Fairbanks