Shock install advice/tips

[mdisher]

So I'm, the recipient of a new to me Penskey 8987 shock

2006 ABS (non-AE)

The service manual is less than helpful here, saying quite simply (remove bottom bolt, then remove top bolt).

Well OK then how hard can it be?

I've started the dis-assembly process.

- Bike on center stand, up on 2x4's for a little extra lift.

- Side panels off (short ones under the seat).

- 4 bolts that hold the cross member are out that holds the ABS Stuff. Hat the hard/soft selector is bolted too.

- I can see the nut at the top, but not the other side.

Question:

Do I have to take out the plastic tray under the riders seat to get to this. You know that tray that I have all my electronics mounted in?

- FuzeBlock, Starcomm, PCIII and a butt load of wires feeding them all?

I can't see any other way, but I"m open to options.

What about the under tail?

-HRMS...

Time to eat them get back at it.

:blink:

 

[v65]

Well you might be able to get to it by removing the fender and the rear wheel but I doubt it - I've always removed the tray. That top bolt is a pain to get out, you have to remove the spacer to give yourself some wiggle room. Good luck!

 

[feeger]

There's a writeup on fjrtech for a Wilbers install

 

[Auburn]

It's pretty straight forward. The biggest PIA was the upper shock bolt. Because I had to loosen and move part of the ABS supports to get the bolt all the way out so I could remove the shock. It's not real easy to get wrenches in to loosen or tighten either. But it can be done without removing the tray.

Congrats on the new suspenders. You will enjoy them :clapping: :yahoo:

 

[mdisher]

There's a writeup on fjrtech for a Wilbers install

I looked at that and specifically this:

But that aint no where near what the right side of an 06 ABS looks like, there's all the ABS stuff on the right side blocking access to that bolt.

under the tray is the ECU so I'm a bit scared to remove that...

-MD

 

[mdisher]

OK, for posterity for the next dude that needs to do this.

I originally dropped the bracket that all the ABS stuff is bolted too, to get to the hard/soft adjuster bolts.

So naturally I took the same two bolts out of the other side, thinking, well this is only going to give me more access.

No! It made the bracket drop down so far that I thought that bolt wasn't going to come out that way, and started looking for alternate methods. I was about to remove the airbox when I sad f*&K it I'll revisit this tomorrow.

Then my wife said, why you frustrated? It can't be that hard, so with 4 hands (two holding the abs shit back in place) we got the bolt out...

Tomorrow I will install the shock and try and remember how to put back all the shit I took off...

- the tray under the seat, the ECU tray, 1/2 the under tail cover, all the airbox goodies (minus the actually airbox), and a whole bunch of other shit I can't remember.

More parts than when I checked my valves only on the other end of the bike so that aint good :angry:

Photos for illustrative purposes.

Now my next question is this.

Any reason NOT to put the bolt back on the OTHER way to come out the left side of the bike with the nut on the right?

What spacers are yall talking about? I see a spacer in the upper mount on the side the bolt came out of but none that are removable from the stock shock I don't think.

 

[Auburn]

There's a writeup on fjrtech for a Wilbers install

I looked at that and specifically this:

But that aint no where near what the right side of an 06 ABS looks like, there's all the ABS stuff on the right side blocking access to that bolt.

under the tray is the ECU so I'm a bit scared to remove that...

-MD

MD - went down to garage and took a closer look at my 06.

I took the right foot peg support, rear brake lever assembly loose and removed both side exhaust cans to make as much room as I could to work.

Then move it out toward you as much as you can and let it hang. You may have to loosen the rear brake resivor and let it hang too.

Next loosen the 3 ( I think that is all) bolts holding the ABS controller in place. Your goal is to get it loose enough so you can push it down enough to get at the top mounting bolt for the shock.

This first one is the two allen head bolts right behind my shock resivior hose.

The last one is the hex nut right in the middle

Then I lowerd the black bracket and then the ABS block. There may be more bolts underneath, I can't remember for sure. Then I was able to get the nut loose on the upper shock bolt using ratchets with extentions on each side. Note when you pull the bolts top and bottom, you will need a small floor jack under the engine area some where to lift and take tension off the bolt and shock assembly. I put a board under the headers and then jacked using it. Also NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO SUPPORT THE FRONT TO PREVENT THE BIKE FROM TIPPING OVER. I have a bike lift and tied the front end down so it would not shift or lift. You want to remove the bottom bolts and dog bones first. Then take the bolt out of the top. You will have to do some prying and wiggling to get it out as the ABS braket and block are to tough to get moved enough. Just take your time and do it slowly. Lower the shock out the bottom. You will have to loosen the Hard/Soft assembly and feed it out the bottom too.

Check your upper bolt and see if it will slide through the spacers provided with the Penske. Mine did not got through easily and I had to do a little filing with on the inside of the spacers until it would slide smoothly. (ther was a bur on both spacers that had to be removed).

The harest this I had to deal with was where and how to route the resevoir for the shock. IT took a few trys to get it where I wanted it and to make sure the hose was out of the way and not rubbing on anything.

Here is a close up of where mine is mount and where the hose comes through behind the rear brake support and master cylinder.

The hose rest just above the swing arm. You may have to twist the resevoir iin the side mount slightly to keep the hose from rubbing anything. You will be adjusting hte floor jack as necessary to take pressure off the upper and lower bolts as you re-assemble.

I think this job took me about 3 hours to do start to finish. With a lot of time spent looking at it and figuring out how to move things to get the bolts in and out. Slao while you got it apart, grease all the bearings you can reach in the suspension.

 

[Auburn]

Now my next question is this.
Any reason NOT to put the bolt back on the OTHER way to come out the left side of the bike with the nut on the right?

I believe I did because it went in easier that way. I don't see any reason why it would matter.

 

[mdisher]

Thanks!

I think I'm in the clear now. I got the old one out, but took off way to much chit. :/ What *should* have been a 2-3 hour job will be a 5-6 hour job.

But what they hey, that's just 2-3 more beers no? and I know my bike all that much better.

 

[Auburn]

That is the joy of being a do it yourself mechanic B) :lol:

Hopefully the pics help. Sorry I didn't take pictures when I did mine last year. (I didn't have a good camera then)

 

[v65]

What spacers are yall talking about? I see a spacer in the upper mount on the side the bolt came out of but none that are removable from the stock shock I don't think.

That's the one, with that spacer out it is possible to remove the upper bolt without messing with the ABS. It's tight, but possible.

 

[mdisher]

All-righty...

Shock installed and my baby is back together. Can't wait to take her for a ride tomorrow...

Apparently I'm a bit lighter than cdog, or have less chit in my bags (hard to imagine). I unwound the spring almost a half inch to get the sag right in the middle.

I've got all the settings in the 'middle' right now and can't way to give it a go.

For those that read this in the future. While it doesn't look like that bolt will come out, it will if you hold your mouth just right and say the magic cuss words. Not need to take all the stuff off that I did.

-MD